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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 15 Jun 2011 (Wednesday) 14:05
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Image Processed in Aperture & Lightroom

 
Mark-B
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Jun 15, 2011 14:05 |  #1

Here's an image that I processed in Aperture 3 and Lightroom 3. I processed them several days apart, just doing each one so it looked liked I wanted at the time. I did A3 first, then LR3 second. I compared them afterward and made a few minor tweaks on each image to make them more similar to each other. No real point to this other than to show that you can get similar results with either one once you get a good grasp on the tools.

Here's the original shot. It's the -1.67 EV shot from a bracketed series on a 50D. I chose the under exposed version because the sky was close to what I wanted and I find it easier to lift shadows than to bring down highlights.

IMAGE: http://www.msbphoto.com/img/v25/p746094645.jpg

I processed the image first in Aperture because that's currently my preferred editor.

- Straighten
- Adjust white balance
- Used levels to brighten the white point
- Used highlights & shadows to lift shadows in the grass. Done as a global adjustment, then masked out and used the brush tool to apply it only to the bottom portion of the image
- Used contrast brush to paint some contrast back into the grass
- Boosted saturation & vibrance
- Used curves to boost the highlights
- Used dodge brush to brighten the sand
- Added slight vignette

IMAGE: http://www.msbphoto.com/img/v24/p752434891.jpg

Here's the Lightroom version:

- Adjusted the white balance using the same numbers as Aperture. The two programs don't display colors the same even when using the exact settings, but it was pretty close in this image.
- Used the tone curve to lift shadows & darks.
- Used the tone curve to boost highlights.
- LR doesn't have a highlights & shadows tool, so I used the exposure gradient to lift the shadows in the grass. This resulted in a good bit more noise than the h&s tool did in Aperture, but also gave a better range of colors in the blades of grass.
- The exposure gradient got the sand where I wanted it, but it was a little much on the grass. Used the dodge and contrast brushes with negative values to bring the grass back down a little.
- Boosted saturation & vibrance.
- Added slight vignette

IMAGE: http://www.msbphoto.com/img/v14/p963247931.jpg


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Mark-B
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tzalman
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Jun 15, 2011 16:23 |  #2

This is just a comment, not a criticism.

You are generally better off going with the "over exposed" version. Any lightening exposes noise (that is already there but may not be obvious.) Any darkening uses data from a level where the signal/noise ratio is more favorable. That is why I wrote "over exposed" in quotation marks - my definition of proper RAW exposure is the one which maximizes data capture and dynamic range.


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Mark-B
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Jun 15, 2011 16:49 |  #3

tzalman wrote in post #12599619 (external link)
You are generally better off going with the "over exposed" version

I don't find that to be the case when sunsets or sunrises are the main subject matter. I think too much is lost in the sky (and sun) with the over exposed version. I don't pixel peep, and I'm not afraid of a little grain. I'd rather have a nice tonal range in the sky than a perfectly noise free image. Of course, I would usually do HDR with further processing in Photoshop for something like this so there would be no real need for such heavy lifting of the shadows.


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tkerr
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Jun 15, 2011 18:27 |  #4

Mark-B wrote in post #12598763 (external link)
I processed the image first in Aperture because that's currently my preferred editor.

Here's the Lightroom version:

- Adjusted the white balance using the same numbers as Aperture. The two programs don't display colors the same even when using the exact settings, but it was pretty close in this image.
- Used the tone curve to lift shadows & darks.
- Used the tone curve to boost highlights.
- LR doesn't have a highlights & shadows tool, so I used the exposure gradient to lift the shadows in the grass. This resulted in a good bit more noise than the h&s tool did in Aperture, but also gave a better range of colors in the blades of grass.
- The exposure gradient got the sand where I wanted it, but it was a little much on the grass. Used the dodge and contrast brushes with negative values to bring the grass back down a little.
- Boosted saturation & vibrance.
- Added slight vignette

-

What version of LR are you using?
Adjusting Shadows and Highlights is done quite easily with the curves adjustment. In Lightroom 3 you now have the option to use either Parametric or Point Curves adjustments. In LR2 you only had the Parametric curves adjustment but it still worked quite well for bringing out the shadows. On top of that you also have the fill light adjustment that can help with that.


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Mark-B
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Jun 15, 2011 19:22 |  #5

tkerr wrote in post #12600258 (external link)
What version of LR are you using?
Adjusting Shadows and Highlights is done quite easily with the curves adjustment.

That tool is called "tone curve" in Lightroom. I put in my description that I used it. It has similar (but more limited) functionality as the Highlights and Shadow tool in Aperture, but it's not the same tool. Aperture also has a Curves adjustment similar to the one in Photoshop (Luminance, RGB, R, G,B) in addition to the Highlights & Shadows tool.


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René ­ Damkot
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Jun 16, 2011 06:31 |  #6

Mark-B wrote in post #12599752 (external link)
I don't find that to be the case when sunsets or sunrises are the main subject matter. I think too much is lost in the sky (and sun) with the over exposed version.

In that case, you overexpose too much. ;)

You should not be clipping important highlight detail.


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