Jack's first #2 statement must be assuming a camera that loses AF before f/5.6. Any of the Canon DSLRs should maintain AF through a reported f/5.6 (or better in the case of the 1D series).
Statement #2 #2, well, if you're computing exposure based on an external meter, your actual aperture at 1:1 is 2 stop worse than it is at "normal" focussing distances. For normal work, lens extension doesn't affect aperture values markedly, but at close-up distances the extra extension has to be allowed for. The effective aperture calculation for a lens is aperture=i/(entry pupil); where 1/f=1/i +1/o and i= lens-image distance, o = lens-object distance, f = focal length.The marked aperture is just a special case where f = i. At normal ranges, i is very close to f, so the change is negligible. In close, at life size i is twice f, so a 50 mm lens would have an i of 100 mm. With the 20 mm (f/2.5) entry pupil, at life size, 100/20 = 5, so effective aperture is f/5, for a loss of 2 stops (f/2.5-f/3.5-f/5). With internal, TTL, metering you don't need to worry about this, and the change isn't abrupt so you won't generally notice a change in light levels as you move in, but it's happening. That's why at very high magnifications you get a very dark viewing screen. But this won't directly affect AF. It won't cut off unless the lens reports an aperture change as it focusses closer (please! my brain hurts at the feedback circuit that would need!), but it will start to "hunt" as the light falls off.