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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 25 Jun 2011 (Saturday) 21:32
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Question regarding light meters and flashes..

 
artemisn
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Jun 25, 2011 21:32 |  #1

Heya all! - I'm recently getting into working with off-camera flash, and I'm about to succumb to picking up a light meter so I don't have to spend so long ballparking everything. I was wondering though...

I'm using a 430EX II and a YN-560. They're of different 'power,' of course - guide numbers of 58 and 46, so if I'm understanding what I've read, then you'll need a flash meter that can receive the settings for both, and it will give you manual settings for the camera in return? And would you be doing EV adjustments if your lights are going through a modifier such as a shoot-through umbrella or umbrella-softbox?

I've also read a bit about triggers being a factor in this - I'm using Cactus V5s.

Sorry if this is a bit of an obvious question, but the learning curve has increased incredibly since I even considered OCF, and I'm hellbent on getting past it. Even if someone knows a website with a more concise and direct explanation, that would be great.


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Curtis ­ N
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Jun 25, 2011 21:41 |  #2

Light meters can be used in different ways, but the most common way they're used for flash metering is by taking an incident reading - that is putting the meter at the subject position, pointing it toward the camera and firing the lights.

Meters are designed to give an aperture reading in this mode. You set the shutter speed and ISO on the meter and it tells you the correct aperture for the light it's reading.

The process doesn't change with light modifiers. You just have to take your reading with the same setup you intend to use for the photos.

I think the Sekonic website has some tutorials.
http://sekonic.com (external link)


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Jun 25, 2011 21:44 |  #3

Great move to get a meter.
Sekonic L-358 is well regarded.


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artemisn
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Jun 25, 2011 21:48 |  #4

Curtis, I really do owe you one, that explains, well...Just about everything! I assist the university photographer at my school and I do recall him doing just that the first time we had to do indoor promotional photos.

I've heard great things about almost everything from Sekonic! I suppose the hard question now is, is there a reliable option from them or another brand that will work with the Cacti and run, say...$200 max?


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digital ­ paradise
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Jun 25, 2011 21:48 |  #5

The YN-560 does no have ETTL so you have to use it in manual. Funny you should mention this. I have a Sekonic L358 and used it for the first time tonight at a photo booth. I only used one shoot through umbrella and I use Cybersync triggers.

Flash was in manual @ half power. I set my my meter at 1/160 and ISO @400 and went to the position where the people were going to stand. I fired the flash and the meter told me the required aperture needed to be F4. I wanted F8 so I increased the flash power to full. I tried again and it was F 7.1. I set my shutter to 1/125 and bingo - on third try I got F8. I just set my camera to those settings and shot all the images. No EV or guide numbers to worry about. It could not have been any simpler. I know I could have lowered my shutter but I wanted to kill the ambient light.

With two flashes you just need to do them individually. There is an EV feature on that meter that tells you what the difference is between two flashes.


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artemisn
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Jun 25, 2011 21:52 |  #6

Gotcha, Digital. The reason I didn't go for PocketWizards instead (other than cost) was because I knew most work would be done in manual regardless. Well, from what I've read at least. That's also why I opted for the Yongnuo.

Two questions though - would using a second flash have given you the same result with less power on both (With umbrellas left and right, because umbrellas have a hefty bit of spread), and did you have any trouble with the flash overheating? I know the YN-560 overheats after 15 shots at full pwoer, but I'm not sure what you were packing for that night.

(And the EV feature on that Sekonic sounds heavenly, I've got to say)


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Curtis ­ N
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Jun 25, 2011 21:58 |  #7

digital paradise wrote in post #12657847 (external link)
With two flashes you just need to do them individually. There is an EV feature on that meter that tells you what the difference is between two flashes.

Clarification - Meter each light individually to determine the ratio between them. But if all you want is a camera setting, then fire all the lights and take a reading.

All of the Sekonic meters have a cordless flash mode so it doesn't matter what you use to trigger the lights.


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kuma1212
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Jun 25, 2011 22:47 |  #8

artemisn wrote in post #12657846 (external link)
I've heard great things about almost everything from Sekonic! I suppose the hard question now is, is there a reliable option from them or another brand that will work with the Cacti and run, say...$200 max?

look at the l358 and 308 (sekonics). Reliable and often sold on the forums.


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Jun 25, 2011 23:27 |  #9

Curtis N wrote in post #12657884 (external link)
Clarification - Meter each light individually to determine the ratio between them. But if all you want is a camera setting, then fire all the lights and take a reading.

All of the Sekonic meters have a cordless flash mode so it doesn't matter what you use to trigger the lights.

So if I purchase the RT-32 radio transmitter it will work on a Cybersync receiver? I thought it only worked on PW.


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Jun 25, 2011 23:28 |  #10

artemisn wrote in post #12657866 (external link)
Gotcha, Digital. The reason I didn't go for PocketWizards instead (other than cost) was because I knew most work would be done in manual regardless. Well, from what I've read at least. That's also why I opted for the Yongnuo.

Two questions though - would using a second flash have given you the same result with less power on both (With umbrellas left and right, because umbrellas have a hefty bit of spread), and did you have any trouble with the flash overheating? I know the YN-560 overheats after 15 shots at full pwoer, but I'm not sure what you were packing for that night.

(And the EV feature on that Sekonic sounds heavenly, I've got to say)

I was using my Canon 580 II. I also have a 580c. I purchased the Yongnuo just for rim lighting.


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artemisn
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Jun 25, 2011 23:57 |  #11

Gotcha, digital.

Questions all over the place - I feel like I'm starting all over again! :)

So it looks like I'll be going for the L-358 after reading this comparison - https://photography-on-the.net ….php?p=754058&p​ostcount=2

Now, will I also need to pick up another Cactus V5 and connect it via PC Sync cord, or get an extra-long cord and connect it to one of the triggers?


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Jun 26, 2011 00:01 |  #12

I went with a second Cybersync transmitter and connected to the PC port. I was not sure about it at first but after tonight I'm glad I did. I would have hated having a cord to deal with. I just used velcro to attach the transmitter to the meter.


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artemisn
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Jun 26, 2011 00:08 |  #13

Looks like I'll have a small tower of Cacti come the end of the year..Glorious!


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Curtis ­ N
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Jun 26, 2011 06:59 |  #14

digital paradise wrote in post #12658220 (external link)
So if I purchase the RT-32 radio transmitter it will work on a Cybersync receiver? I thought it only worked on PW.

You don't need the RT-32. You could connect the meter to whatever transmitter you're using via PC cord but you don't need that either.

You put the meter in cordless flash mode, press the button to activate it, then fire the lights however you want. I usually just hold the meter in one hand and hit the test button on the transmitter with the other.


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Jun 26, 2011 07:25 |  #15

Right. That is what I am doing. I thought there might be another way. Thanks.


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Question regarding light meters and flashes..
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