PhotosGuy wrote in post #12693011
And sometimes that's important. But don't be afraid to adjust the final result by eye which just makes more sense to me. If it looks good, I don't care if it's 'perfect' or not.
Agree 100%. The gray card may say WB is perfect, the monitor may agree, but is what I see on the printed photograph pleasing to the eye. Of course, what is pleasant to my eye may turn yours away. Monet, Renoir, (impressionistic artists) or the abstract artists (Picasso, Rembrandt) leave me cold.
leeport wrote in post #12697334This is great advice. I usually set AWB in camera and then adjust accordingly in CS5. I like the idea of the video and having the model first shoot with the gray/white card and then using that to determine WB in post. But I always use my eye in the end.
I am not "into" PP enough to justify CS5 but use DPP & PSE9 to adjust WB, usually trying several different WBes before finding one I like.
PixelMagic wrote in post #12697467Its junk and probably not worth the card stock its printed on. Its unlikely to be spectrally neutral and the glossy finish is a negative. A good White Balance card will at least have at least a matte finish to minimize glare.
Perhaps, but it gives me a starting point on my non-calibrated monitor. Also, on something I think important,
I cheat, post photos, & ask y'all.
:o
melanopsin wrote in post #12700458Gray card for white balance is fine, gray is a 'shade' of white, gray is a white-balanced color.
The thing about the real color checker card is the ink pigments are specially formulated to reflect color light that is not spectral, i.e. made from other colors like the colors seen on your monitor. Monitor colors are made by combining red, green, and blue colors, whereas the pigment on the card reflect a specific color. Okay my explanation isn't very good imho, the color checker web site explains better than me.
Maybe not so good to you, but it helps me understand better the purpose & use of the CCCard. Do not be so quick to denigrate yourself. Is there a decent Color Checker Card that does not cost a $100.00
tonylong wrote in post #12700506Actually you are mixing up a White Balance target and an Exposure target. A White Balance target only needs to be "color-neutral" -- whether it is "medium gray" or not doesn't matter as long as it is balanced/neutral between R, G and B. Even then, there is, as has been mentioned above, a matter of personal taste -- you can click a nice neutral white piece of paper without a hint of color and then decide that you prefer something a bit different.
Gray cards are a different category. Many years ago Ansel Adams decided that "18% Gray" was a proper tone falling in the middle of his 7-zone system and he convinced Kodak to adopt it as a "standard" for metering.
The problem is that there are some inconsitencies in that approach, both in the cards produced, in the meters used, and in how digital sensors deal with Raw data. And, as you've seen, the result is that a "good" exposure of an 18% gray card will come out with the spike somewhat above the "medium" that the "standard" suggests.
In fact, in the digital realm, 18% gray is not in the "middle" of digital tones at all, but this can get rather, well, complicated...
But, yes, it is typical for one to set, say, a +1/3 stop Ev when you use a gray card. But, there are various ways to set a good exposure without getting real complicated!
Mr Adams set numerous standards from what I understand. At least he set, or unfied, standards for that time and many are still relevant. Many give us "starting points" from which we can modify for our purposes, such as the gray card. This is a prime example of "the more I learn, the less I know".:o
Rimmer wrote in post #12707024I have the Kindle edition of the book so can't refer you to a specific page number for the print version, but go to Chapter 4 and search for a heading entitled "Studio Photo Correction Made Simple." You will find text as well as several pictures showing the card in use. You will also find a brief mention in Chapter 2 under the heading "TIP: Using a Swatch Card."
Oh, but wait -- I was looking to see if there were any more references in the book and just found the answer: go to the index and look for "Color Swatch Card." There you will see that the above two references are found on pages 63 and 158-159.
I think I saw those but must not have understood what they said. Perhaps I should re-read those areas and read the book more carefully!
And this brings me back to another part of my question, or a question in another place: Is there a decent Color Checker Card that does not cost a $100.00 (x-rite CC passport)?
Say the Digital Image Flow DGK Color Tools Multifunction Color Chart with White Balance and Exposure Tools
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Image-Flow-Multifunction-Exposure/dp/B0036L8TGC/ref=wl_it_dp_v?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1W8Q2931JU1O8&colid=18EO6FN5OZIPO
Once again, Thank you for your help, advice, suggestions, time & education.
Gil
