wait. shutter priority instead of manual?

You cannot get the proper background exposure from your camera when it's set to Manual! While in Manual mode, pointing toward the background behind the model will give you only the aperture (and shutter speed) setting that you've preset for Manual mode. Set your camera to Shutter Priority and set your shutter at 1/250 of a second in order for you camera's meter to give you the proper aperture setting. Or you can take an incident meter reading on the back of the model or spot meter the sky!

stevewf1 wrote in post #12723480
I confess I don't understand that quote, but remember that in manual mode, nothing is set for you. You can set the shutter speed to 1/250 all you want, but you also have to set the aperture as well.

So, in manual mode you can certainly get the right exposure, but you have to do it all yourself.

jobv2 wrote in post #12723450
im spending some time looking at the adorama videos and stumbled across this comment:

any truth to this?

if im on manual mode, and set my shutter to 1/250, how would this be any different than going to shutter priority at 1/250? im assuming there is no difference but i guess i know nothing...


found here
http://www.youtube.com …otation_633970&​feature=iv

EOS flash photography confusion.

The main area of confusion in EOS flash photography is the fact that P, Tv, Av and M modes handle flash illumination differently, especially when ambient light levels are not bright. Here’s a summary of how the modes basically work when you have a flash unit turned on. This summary assumes that you do not have high speed sync flash enabled if that option is available to your particular camera and flash unit combination.


Mode: P
Shutter speed: Automatically set from 1/60 sec to the camera’s maximum X-sync speed.
Lens aperture: Automatically set according to the camera’s built-in program.

Mode: Tv
Shutter speed: You can set any shutter speed between 30 seconds and the camera’s maximum X-sync speed.
Lens aperture:Automatically set to match the shutter speed you have set.

Mode: Av
Shutter speed: Automatically set between 30 seconds and the camera’s maximum X-sync speed to match the lens aperture you have set.
Lens aperture: You can set any lens aperture you like.

Mode:M
Shutter speed: You can set any shutter speed between 30 seconds and the camera’s maximum X-sync speed.
Lens aperture: You can set any lens aperture you like.

Program (P) mode flash.

The overriding principle of Program (P) mode in flash photography is that the camera tries to set a high shutter speed so that you can hold your camera by hand and not rely on a tripod. If that means the background is dark, so be it.
Program mode operates in one of two modes, depending on the ambient (existing) light levels.
1) If ambient light levels are fairly bright (above 13 EV) then P mode assumes you want to fill-flash your foreground subject. It meters for ambient light and uses flash, usually at a low-power setting, to fill in the foreground.
2) If ambient light levels are not bright (below 10 EV) then P mode assumes that you want to illuminate the foreground subject with the flash. It sets a shutter speed between 1/60 sec and the fastest X-sync speed (see above) your camera can attain. The aperture is determined by the camera’s built-in program.
Because the camera tries to keep the shutter speed at a reasonable speed for handholding the camera you will end up with dark or black backgrounds if you take a flash photo in P mode when ambient light levels are not bright.
On most if not all EOS cameras, P mode is not shiftable when flash (internal or shoe-mounted Speedlite) is used. Note also that DEP mode cannot work correctly with flash - its metering settings basically revert to P mode if you try it.

Tv (shutter priority) mode flash.

In this mode the camera lets you change the shutter speed. It then automatically chooses an aperture setting to expose the background correctly. Flash duration (flash output) is determined by the flash metering system. In other words, the camera always works in fill flash mode when it’s in Tv mode - it always tries to expose the background adequately, unlike P mode.
If the maximum aperture value of your lens starts flashing in the viewfinder it means the background of the scene you’re shooting is too dimly lit. If you want to try and expose the background then you should decrease the shutter speed to compensate. Otherwise the camera will just try and expose the foreground with flash and the background will come out dark. Naturally at slower shutter speeds you’ll need to use a tripod to avoid blurring caused by camera shake.
As always, the camera will prevent you from exceeding its built in X-sync speed unless high speed sync is available to you and engaged. If the minimum aperture value of your lens starts flashing then your scene is too brightly lit. You must then either engage high speed sync if it’s available or perhaps put a neutral density filter on the camera or use slower film or a lower digital ISO. Or turn off flash altogether and simply use a reflector of some type to bounce ambient light onto the subject.
The 420EZ and 430EZ flash units will operate in A-TTL mode in Tv mode, but the 540EZ works only in TTL mode. Note that in this mode type A camera bodies underexpose the background by up to a stop when light levels are low and an E-TTL flash unit is engaged. If this is the case try testing by comparing the aperture setting with M mode, which does not do this. You may need to apply exposure compensation if this effect exists on your camera and is undesirable.

Av (aperture priority) mode flash.

Av mode lets you set the depth of field by specifying the lens aperture. The camera then chooses a shutter speed ranging from 30 seconds to the camera’s X-sync speed, in order to expose the background correctly. If that means the shutter speed is some really low value so that you need to use a tripod to avoid camera-shake blur, so be it. In dark conditions, therefore, Av mode works in slow sync mode.
Flash duration (flash output) is determined by the flash metering system. Like Tv mode the camera always works in fill flash mode when in Av mode.
There is one exception to this. A number of EOS cameras have a custom function you can set to ensure that the shutter speed in Av mode when using flash is locked to the X-sync speed. The EOS 10/10s and Elan II/EOS 50, for example, have such a custom function, which lets your camera behave more like P mode when in Av mode. However this custom function will only lock the camera to X-sync in Av mode and will not choose a shutter speed from 1/60 sec to X-sync, the way P mode does.
As always, the camera will prevent you from exceeding its built in X-sync speed unless high speed sync is available to you and engaged. If the shutter speed value of 30" flashes in the viewfinder then there isn’t enough light to expose the background correctly and you’ll need a larger aperture or faster film or higher ISO. If the camera’s X-sync flashes in the viewfinder then you’ll need to decrease the lens aperture, engage high speed sync if it’s available or use slower film or a lower ISO.
The 420EZ and 430EZ flash units will operate in A-TTL mode in Av mode, but the 540EZ works only in TTL mode. Note also that some people have reported that in this mode their type A camera bodies underexpose the background by up to a stop when light levels are low and an E-TTL flash unit is engaged. If this is the case try testing by comparing the shutter speed setting with M mode, which does not do this. You may need to apply exposure compensation if this effect exists on your camera and is undesirable.

Manual (M) exposure mode flash.

In manual exposure mode you specify both the aperture and shutter speed, and your exposure settings will determine how the background (ambient lighting) is exposed. The subject, however, can still be illuminated by the automatic flash metering system since the flash can automatically calculate flash output levels for you. This is a marked contrast to the olden days, when photographers would carry around little flash exposure tables with them in order to work out manual flash settings.
This is how flash works in manual mode. Note that we’re talking about the manual exposure mode setting only, which can use automatic TTL flash metering (it will not use A-TTL metering in manual exposure mode). Also, we aren’t talking about setting the output of the flash manually - that’s manual flash and a different topic altogether.

• Set your camera to M for manual exposure mode.
  
• Set the aperture and shutter speed to expose the background correctly.
  
• Press the shutter button down halfway if your flash has a rear-panel LCD (liquid crystal display). The flash coupling range will appear in the flash unit’s LCD. This range is the distance that can safely be covered by the flash.
  
• If your lens has a distance scale you can check the current focussing distance to ensure that the distance to your subject falls within this range. Otherwise you’ll have to estimate.
  
• If the “flash ready” lightning bolt symbol appears in the viewfinder you can press the shutter all the way to take the photo. The flash’s TTL or E-TTL system will determine the flash exposure level of the subject.

If your flash lacks a rear-panel LCD you won’t have a preview of the flash coupling range, of course. Also, LCD-equipped flash units will not calculate the flash coupling range if you’re using bounce flash, and the coupling range will not necessarily be correct if you have a diffuser on the flash head.
Some Speedlite flashes, such as the 540EZ and 580EX, can display the coupling range in either feet or metres, depending on which measurement system has been set by the small switch in the battery compartment. Others, such as the 430EZ, are hardwired to one measurement system or the other, depending on where the flash was sold. US market flashes used feet and all other countries on the planet* had only metre flashes available to them. And the 580EX II can set the measurement system through a custom function.

* Trivia note - even countries such as Canada and the UK which are officially metric but which are nonetheless full of people who still use imperial measurements. Also Yemen, Rwanda, Burundi and Burma, which used to stand proudly with the USA as the planet’s only officially non-metric countries and which have now given up and are switching over to metric. Liberia is the only holdout I can find, and even there it’s only the government - apparently businesses and schools use metric.