Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Index  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Guest
New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk 
Thread started 15 Jul 2011 (Friday) 19:14
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

how would you expose this properly?

 
ekinnyc
Senior Member
Avatar
784 posts
Likes: 14
Joined Mar 2011
Location: New York, NY
     
Jul 15, 2011 19:14 |  #1

as i was making my way home today, i looked up at the buildings, and how they looked against a nicely lit sky..... started to think, how would i meter it so that the buildings came out properly exposed, and the sky wouldnt be blown.... couldnt figure it out.

i took a pic with my phone, focused on the sky, so it came out somewhat exposed (though the middle section is also blown), while the buildings are dark

so, i ask fellow POTNers... how would you expose this scene properly? would you meter for the buildings, allow the sky to blow out, and try to recover in post?

IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6002/5941718768_357d20ec4b_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/58640743@N05/5​941718768/  (external link)
2011-07-15_18-17-13_903 (external link) by ekinnyc (external link), on Flickr

6D| 35mm f/2 IS
Buying/Selling Feedback

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)
KVN ­ Photo
Goldmember
Avatar
1,940 posts
Joined Jun 2010
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
     
Jul 15, 2011 20:12 |  #2

Try HDR, shoot 3 pics with normal exposure, +1, -1, then combine them in PS.
Or shoot Raw, then play with the exposure like the one above^^^, and combine them.
That's how we could exposed the building and the sky properly.


X-Pro1 + 18-55 f/2.8-4 OIS + 55-200 f/3.8-4.5 OIS
TS-E 24 f/3.5L II + XF 35 f/1.4 + XF 56 f/1.2
Sony RX100 II + G12
Travel the world!

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Mark1
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
6,725 posts
Likes: 6
Joined Feb 2008
Location: Maryland
     
Jul 15, 2011 20:49 |  #3

You could get a little closer to good exposure. But the range is most likely wider than the sensor can handle. Any kind of metering cant make the sensor see a wider range.The HDR route would be a good one. There is no need to make it a cheap pop art snapshot out of ot. But keep it realistic and it could be a good image.


www.darkslisemag.com (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
ekinnyc
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
784 posts
Likes: 14
Joined Mar 2011
Location: New York, NY
     
Jul 15, 2011 23:27 |  #4

id love to see how the sensor on my SLR would "see" this pics... unfortunately i dont want to drag my camera with me to work.

but in general, when shooting an urban scene with a bright light source in the back, how do you expose?


6D| 35mm f/2 IS
Buying/Selling Feedback

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Snydremark
my very own Lightrules moment
18,529 posts
Gallery: 49 photos
Likes: 1589
Joined Mar 2009
Location: Issaquah, WA USA
     
Jul 15, 2011 23:39 |  #5

Spot meter for the portion of the scene you really want well exposed. In a situation like you have there, you're going to wind up with either blown highlights or blocked up shadows due to the large dynamic range presented there.

You could do as KVN mentions and do 3 bracketed shots to blend in PP...if your skills lean that way at all.

If you have an Android or Iphone you could install Exposure Pro, which will allow you "see" the scene as your camera does; you can snap a shot and then convert it to grey scale. Then it gives you an 18% grey square you can move around to match and find where you need to meter your real camera, for as close to a 'proper' exposure as you're going to get there.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII/5D IV, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
tzalman
Fatal attraction.
Avatar
13,482 posts
Likes: 199
Joined Apr 2005
Location: Gesher Haziv, Israel
     
Jul 16, 2011 04:30 |  #6

Blown clouds are not recoverable, they are gone. Underexposed shadows can be lightened, but at the cost of noise and banding. That is if you shoot jpg. If you shoot RAW you get greater dynamic range so there is less chance of blown highlights and shadows contain more data and can be brightened better. Place the brightest spot at +2.5 EC and you will maximize shadow data.


Elie / אלי

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
hollis_f
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
10,649 posts
Gallery: 1 photo
Likes: 85
Joined Jul 2007
Location: Sussex, UK
     
Jul 16, 2011 07:32 |  #7

Get a really, really bright flash?


Frank Hollis - Retired mass spectroscopist
Give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he'll complain about the withdrawal of his free fish entitlement.
Gear Website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
KVN ­ Photo
Goldmember
Avatar
1,940 posts
Joined Jun 2010
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
     
Jul 16, 2011 08:00 |  #8

hollis_f wrote in post #12767775 (external link)
Get a really, really bright flash?

bw!:lol:


X-Pro1 + 18-55 f/2.8-4 OIS + 55-200 f/3.8-4.5 OIS
TS-E 24 f/3.5L II + XF 35 f/1.4 + XF 56 f/1.2
Sony RX100 II + G12
Travel the world!

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
windpig
Chopped liver
Avatar
14,944 posts
Gallery: 6 photos
Likes: 1254
Joined Dec 2008
Location: Just South of Ballard
     
Jul 16, 2011 09:38 |  #9

hollis_f wrote in post #12767775 (external link)
Get a really, really bright flash?

Smarty pants:rolleyes:


Would you like to buy a vowel?
Go ahead, spin the wheel.
flickr (external link)
I'm accross the canal just south of Ballard, the town Seattle usurped in 1907.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
HeaTransfer
Senior Member
554 posts
Joined Mar 2010
     
Jul 16, 2011 15:21 |  #10

Assuming PS skill, and considering that I am not really a fan of HDR -

Take two exposures, one metered for the sky and one metered for the buildings. Create a composite in Post.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
IanW
Goldmember
Avatar
1,276 posts
Gallery: 10 photos
Likes: 127
Joined Nov 2005
Location: Wiltshire, UK
     
Jul 16, 2011 15:34 |  #11

hollis_f wrote in post #12767775 (external link)
Get a really, really bright flash?

Or the mother of all reflectors!! ;) :lol:

Ian.


Canon 5DIII | BG-E11 | Sigma 50mm f1.4 Art | 24-105mm f4L | 70-200mm f2.8L IS II | 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II | x1.4 & x2 III | 430EX
Yongnuo YN-622C | Kenko Tubes | LEE Filters | Manfrotto 055CXPRO3+498RC2, 694CX

flickr (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
elogical
Goldmember
Avatar
1,217 posts
Joined Aug 2010
Location: St Paul, Minnesota
     
Jul 16, 2011 15:41 |  #12

Just put it on burst shooting mode and try a 2 stop handheld HDR. You can probably get away with handholding here if you manually blend in the sky, the definition between sky and building is clear enough that the slight mis-align from not having a tripod probably wouldn't ruin it.

I don't think you can get it a whole lot better than this without multiple exposures. Well, you could just play with curves in photoshop and even it out a little that way


Gear

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TheRisingArms
Senior Member
351 posts
Joined Feb 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
     
Jul 17, 2011 02:11 |  #13

HDR would be the only way to do it here, the dynamic range is too high to fit it all in one exposure.


Bodies: Canon 500D | Canon EOS M
Lenses: Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 | Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 | EF 50mm f/1.8 II | EF-M 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 | EF-M 22mm f/2
Flashes: YN-568EX | 90EX

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Ultimate
Member
Avatar
86 posts
Joined Sep 2010
     
Jul 17, 2011 10:12 |  #14

TheRisingArms wrote in post #12771828 (external link)
HDR would be the only way to do it here,

Not at all. Shoot raw, slightly overexpose for the sky, recover shadows in Lightroom or equivalent software, use PS or equivalent to remove noise if necessary.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
E.J. ­ Peiker
Member
33 posts
Joined Mar 2011
     
Jul 17, 2011 12:27 |  #15

I would approach this by taking the first shot where the sky is properly exposed and then take 2 or three more shots, each 2 stops brighter than the last. Make the adjustment via shutter speed not aperture. Then process them in Photomatix until the scene looks realistic without that obvious HDR look.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

2,209 views & 0 likes for this thread
how would you expose this properly?
FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Index   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.1forum software
version 2.1 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is chopkins55
920 guests, 293 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.