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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Weddings & Other Family Events Talk 
Thread started 21 Oct 2005 (Friday) 06:54
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Shooting a wedding tomorrow and have a problem....

 
WildWolf
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Oct 21, 2005 06:54 |  #1

I took some preliminary shots yesterday. The wedding is called for 5pm (about 1/2 hour before sunset). I went out yest with the bride and groom to take some practice shots and figure out where we were gonna shoot the portraits. When I got home last night, I noticed that a lot of shots were over exposed. I used aperture priority with the sun coming from the side. Their faces were really overexposed. It didn't look like this on the back of the camera (lcd), although I did not look at the histogram. I was shooting at iso 200. How can I fix this issue? I was on the default metering setting. What should the metering be set at? Should I shoot manual instead of aperture priority? Thanks in advance for your comments. BTW I have the pictures on shutterfly- although I do not know how to post on this forum.


5DMkIV

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i2iSTUDIOS
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Oct 21, 2005 07:18 |  #2

Change the metering to center weighted and meter it off of the faces, you can leave it on Aperture Priority. Your camera should be able to correctly meter the situation.


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RichardtheSane
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Oct 21, 2005 07:29 |  #3

The late sun from the side is a recipie for bad lighting in portraits.

You would need the sun from behind you, or at least illuminating all their face.

If you expose for the highlights you will loose detail in the shadows...

If you can't change the location/sun angle what would help is a reflector to bring some light to the shadows.


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WildWolf
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Oct 21, 2005 08:56 as a reply to  @ RichardtheSane's post |  #4

I always thought with the sun behind me, the bride and groom will be squinting. How do I avoid the squinting? I do not own a reflector.....where can I pick one up and how much should this cost me?


5DMkIV

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Brianbar
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Oct 21, 2005 09:30 |  #5

Have the Bride and Groom with their back towards the sun (no squinting) and use fill-in flash for back lighting, works great.
Just make sure you are NOT shooting directly into the sun.

Best of luck.

Brian




  
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WildWolf
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Oct 21, 2005 10:01 as a reply to  @ Brianbar's post |  #6

Thanks for the tip Brian! Just to Clarify, If the sun is behind them and it is close to sunset, how do I avoid shooting into the sun?


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.lf.
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Oct 21, 2005 10:53 as a reply to  @ WildWolf's post |  #7

[QUOTE=WildWolf]Thanks for the tip Brian! Just to Clarify, If the sun is behind them and it is close to sunset, how do I avoid shooting into the sun?[/quote
]

put the church in between them and the sun... i use a lastolite tri grip refelector, works real well for redirecting sun light 60 bucks in B&H and meter off the ground. in shade use a flash with a sof-ten omni bounce 17 bucks from B&H.



  
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dsze
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Oct 21, 2005 10:58 |  #8

Yes, shoot manually and use partial metering. Get a reflector at any camera shop to bounce some light back up into the dark side of their faces. Try to use that sunset behind them and fill-flash to light them in front of it. That is, expose for the sunset, and fill the foreground (faces) with your flash (diffused if possible). Good luck!


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Andy_T
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Oct 21, 2005 11:03 |  #9

And shoot RAW, of course. That will give you more latitude later to recover the shots, especially if they are blown out.
Also check your 'contrast' settings ... a +2 contrast will be more likely to blow out the faces than the neutral setting. (OK, won't matter with RAW).

Best regards,
Andy


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badrotation
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Oct 21, 2005 11:04 |  #10

also, you may want to shoot raw, so that if there are any minor problems, you can save them in post.




  
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Brianbar
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Oct 21, 2005 11:08 |  #11

Have the sun coming in over their shoulder, but don't have the sun directly behind them.
Then take the light reading from the front of the Bride and Groom, which is now in the shade.

Hope this helps.

Brian




  
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lkorell
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Oct 21, 2005 11:09 as a reply to  @ badrotation's post |  #12

Only use the LCD to check composition. For exposure ALWAYS use the histogram. I too just discovered the center weighted metering solution and it's a really good idea.

Lou


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Andy_T
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Oct 21, 2005 11:15 |  #13

And keep in mind that the camera might think that the white dress is an 18% grey dress in partial metering... When in doubt, use exposure bracketing. The fast shot mode (don't know which camera? 5 fps on 20D) is great for that. Only thing I noticed is that the camera resets bracketing sometimes :shock: ... in doubt check after each series if you still are in that mode.

Best regards,
Andy


some cameras, some lenses,
and still a lot of things to learn...
(so post processing examples on my images are welcome :D)
If you like the forum, vote for it where it really counts!
CLICK here for the EOS FAQ
CLICK here for the Post Processing FAQ
CLICK here to understand a bit more about BOKEH

  
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dsze
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Oct 21, 2005 12:53 as a reply to  @ Andy_T's post |  #14

Andythaler wrote:
And keep in mind that the camera might think that the white dress is an 18% grey dress in partial metering... When in doubt, use exposure bracketing. The fast shot mode (don't know which camera? 5 fps on 20D) is great for that. Only thing I noticed is that the camera resets bracketing sometimes :shock: ... in doubt check after each series if you still are in that mode.

Best regards,
Andy


Andy, can you explain this to me? Why would partial metering make the camera think that white is 18% gray. You're probably right, I'm just wondering how/why this would happen and what the effect on the image would be. Wouldn't this matter mostly for WB accuracy?

thanks,


-daniel
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WildWolf
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Oct 21, 2005 13:06 as a reply to  @ dsze's post |  #15

Also,

Can someone explain to me how to "meter".....I know that the camera has 3 metering modes (Rebel XT). How do I meter something if the camera is doing it automatically? (I did actually read the manual cover to cover 5 times and every time I read it, I think I understand 100% and later I still have questions!!!!!)


5DMkIV

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430 EX; Feisol 3442 w/CB50D; Bogen 681B; POTN strap

  
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Shooting a wedding tomorrow and have a problem....
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