Jul 29, 2011 16:20 | #1 When using AB's is the a way to get higher Shutter speed's like you can using the High speed sync with speedlights? ---------------Camera, Lens, Flash stuff.. but still wanting more
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sigmapi Cream of the Crop  11,204 posts Likes: 6 Joined Apr 2010 Location: Los Angeles More info | Jul 29, 2011 16:24 | #2 Gaarryy wrote in post #12844861  When using AB's is the a way to get higher Shutter speed's like you can using the High speed sync with speedlights? I'm looking to use around 1/1000th and off camera flash. I'm not sure if I should just borrow a few 580exII's or borrow an AB800. what I want to try makes sense in my head but I'm not sure how I'd do it. I"m playing around with some sports action shots thanks Flash freezes action not the shutter. Don't try to confuse me with the facts, my mind is already made up.
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Jul 29, 2011 16:38 | #3 thanks ---------------Camera, Lens, Flash stuff.. but still wanting more
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sigmapi Cream of the Crop 11,204 posts Likes: 6 Joined Apr 2010 Location: Los Angeles More info | Jul 29, 2011 16:47 | #4 Then the problem is flash duration. How bad is it? Don't try to confuse me with the facts, my mind is already made up.
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dedsen Goldmember  2,580 posts Likes: 34 Joined Aug 2006 More info | Jul 29, 2011 16:51 | #5 Gaarryy wrote in post #12844861 When using AB's is the a way to get higher Shutter speed's like you can using the High speed sync with speedlights? I'm looking to use around 1/1000th and off camera flash. thanks That's not going to happen. Even with Canon flashes and HSS enabled you are going to get blur. The trick to stopping motion with flash and slow shutter speed is to get the flash bright enough that the ambient is 2 or 3 stops darker than the flash.
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FlashZebra This space available  4,427 posts Joined Mar 2006 Location: Northern Kentucky More info | Jul 29, 2011 16:51 | #6 Indicate what you are photographing and likely more important the ambient light conditions where the flash is being used.
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CurtisN Master Flasher  19,129 posts Likes: 11 Joined Apr 2005 Location: Northern Illinois, US More info | Jul 29, 2011 16:51 | #7 X-sync speed is a limitation of the camera's shutter. More info in Chapter 4: "If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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Jul 29, 2011 17:04 | #8 dedsen wrote in post #12845007 That's not going to happen. Even with Canon flashes and HSS enabled you are going to get blur. The trick to stopping motion with flash and slow shutter speed is to get the flash bright enough that the ambient is 2 or 3 stops darker than the flash. Hmm I think that's what I"m attempting to do, when I was taking my test pics without flash, I was not quite One& 1/2 stops darker. I was thinking, and I admit I might be wrong in how I"m thinking, that when I was using the HSS the flash power was going to be quite a bit less powerful so I couldn't set my exposure to the 2 to 3 stop range. ---------------Camera, Lens, Flash stuff.. but still wanting more
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Jul 29, 2011 17:05 | #9 Curtis N wrote in post #12845010 X-sync speed is a limitation of the camera's shutter. More info in Chapter 4: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=208520 Studio strobes are not capable of high speed sync, which is actually a series of small bursts of flash at a high frequency during the entire duration of shutter curtain movement. Since the flash duration of Alienbees is shortest at high power, the way to minimize motion blur is to set them at high power and adjust your aperture accordingly. Thyristor controlled hotshoe flash units have a shorter flash duration at lower power settings. They are much better suited to stopping motion. A hotshoe flash at low power will be much more effective than HSS with a fast shutter speed. thanks Curtis.. very good info ---------------Camera, Lens, Flash stuff.. but still wanting more
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Jul 29, 2011 17:10 | #10 FlashZebra wrote in post #12845009 Indicate what you are photographing and likely more important the ambient light conditions where the flash is being used. Enjoy! Lon Track and Field shots about an hour before sunset. Using the sun to back light and flash at an angle to light up faces, & front side. ---------------Camera, Lens, Flash stuff.. but still wanting more
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kenyee Senior Member 981 posts Joined Feb 2009 Location: Boston, PRofMA More info | Jul 29, 2011 17:44 | #11 Pocketwizard TT is probably what you want... Pentax K20D, 77Ltd, 43Ltd, Sigma 17-70, 60-250/4, crapload of Strobist gear (SB28's, RP JrX Studios, Einsteins, WL, Speedo BD, softboxes, grids, etc.)
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bobbyz Cream of the Crop 20,506 posts Likes: 3479 Joined Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, CA More info | Jul 29, 2011 18:28 | #12 Gaarryy wrote in post #12845096 Track and Field shots about an hour before sunset. Using the sun to back light and flash at an angle to light up faces, & front side. I think I was at 100iso, Apature 4 and under but mostly 2.8-3.2 , shutter at 1/500 to 1/800 trying HSS So what is the problem? Why not post sample shot to make it easier. Fuji XT-1, 18-55mm
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CurtisN Master Flasher 19,129 posts Likes: 11 Joined Apr 2005 Location: Northern Illinois, US More info | Jul 29, 2011 21:08 | #13 Gaarryy wrote in post #12845096 Track and Field shots about an hour before sunset. Using the sun to back light and flash at an angle to light up faces, & front side. At an angle? Outdoors? Huh? "If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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bobbyz Cream of the Crop 20,506 posts Likes: 3479 Joined Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, CA More info | Jul 29, 2011 21:11 | #14 Curtis N wrote in post #12846109 At an angle? Outdoors? Huh? he probably means sun as back/rim light and then his Ab strobe at an angle to the subject for his main light. Fuji XT-1, 18-55mm
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Jul 29, 2011 22:24 | #15 |
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} that maybe using an AB would work instead of using multi speedlights. But I honestly don't know a lot about them power wise,, Just that a friend has recently gotten one and I could borrow it. 
