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Thread started 03 Aug 2011 (Wednesday) 04:55
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Is Any Trick To Increase 100mm Macro Working Distance?

 
x_tan
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Aug 03, 2011 04:55 |  #1

Hi All,

I try to catch some bees-in-fly. I just have to get very close the bees with my 100mm macro.

Just wonder is any setup can give me more working distance, rather than a 150mm or 180mm macro?

Many thanks!


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Aug 03, 2011 09:03 |  #2

x_tan wrote in post #12868478 (external link)
Hi All,

I try to catch some bees-in-fly. I just have to get very close the bees with my 100mm macro.

Just wonder is any setup can give me more working distance, rather than a 150mm or 180mm macro?

Many thanks!

About the only thing you could do is use a Tc (teleconverter) with the lens, This will enable you to get the same magnification with greater working distance or more magnification at the same working distance.
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Aug 04, 2011 06:58 |  #3

Thanks Brian,

x1.4 or x2?
x1.4 should be better with the IQ?


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Naturalist
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Aug 04, 2011 07:21 as a reply to  @ x_tan's post |  #4

I shoot bees with a 60mm macro - just get on in there !! :lol:



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Aug 04, 2011 13:57 |  #5

x_tan wrote in post #12875305 (external link)
Thanks Brian,

x1.4 or x2?
x1.4 should be better with the IQ?

If you are planning on using Canon extenders you would also need small extension tube between lens and extender, unfortunately that will cause loss of infinity focusing.




  
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x_tan
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Aug 04, 2011 17:54 |  #6

Naturalist wrote in post #12875352 (external link)
I shoot bees with a 60mm macro - just get on in there !! :lol:

I know, and I like to get a bit lazy ;)

Andrew_WOT wrote in post #12877481 (external link)
If you are planning on using Canon extenders you would also need small extension tube between lens and extender, unfortunately that will cause loss of infinity focusing.

Thanks :) I usual use manual focus anyway. Lost light with lots extension tubes is problem with live view, but ok with the view finder.


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Aug 04, 2011 20:58 |  #7

x_tan wrote in post #12878637 (external link)
I know, and I like to get a bit lazy ;)

Thanks :) I usual use manual focus anyway. Lost light with lots extension tubes is problem with live view, but ok with the view finder.

This is not what I meant, AF still works but your working distance will be based on extension tube used, with 12mm it's 134-896 mm. You can go with Kenko extender, it doesn't have protruding element, but from my experience they are inferior to Canon.




  
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Aug 04, 2011 21:11 |  #8

Thank Andrew,

I have both Canon & Kenko tubes, and I put them together which is 11cm long. I found Canon EF 25 II tube give me a bit more working distance; then I want more :)

I don't think longer tubes have greater affect; but I need to retest them again.


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Aug 07, 2011 11:35 |  #9

x_tan wrote in post #12868478 (external link)
Hi All,

I try to catch some bees-in-fly. I just have to get very close the bees with my 100mm macro.

Just wonder is any setup can give me more working distance, rather than a 150mm or 180mm macro?

Many thanks!

You can add an independent 1.4X like the Keno pro 300, or the Canon 1.4X with 12mm tube, I wouldn't recommended a 2X.

From my own experience:

a) The quality loss is significant wide open although this TC works well with long lenses, stopping down at least two stops helps. Tests comparing no TC with the TC (external link).
b) The 1.4X is not a "reporting" system, so the camera meter will still think the lens is a stop more open that it is. This is not an issue as long as you make sure you don't stop down too much and get diffraction, ie the camera says f11 but really it is f16.

But a note of caution, it gets harder to find and track closeup subjects with a longer lens, but in this case it may help to be a bit further away. However the only real success I have had with in-flight hovers is using the 100mm rather than the 180mm macro.


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Aug 07, 2011 19:41 |  #10

Thanks Lester,

I just need more practice with 100mm macro, and more patient with the bees :)


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Aug 07, 2011 20:22 |  #11

Lester Wareham wrote in post #12891736 (external link)
b) The 1.4X is not a "reporting" system, so the camera meter will still think the lens is a stop more open that it is. This is not an issue as long as you make sure you don't stop down too much and get diffraction, ie the camera says f11 but really it is f16.[/INDENT]

This should not be the case anymore with the latest Kenko DGX.




  
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Aug 08, 2011 00:23 |  #12

The kenko tc will report on a lens designed for use with a TC, lenses not designed to work with a TC physically lack the necessary electrical contacts; unless kenko have found a way around that....


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Aug 08, 2011 12:41 |  #13

Lester Wareham wrote in post #12895087 (external link)
The kenko tc will report on a lens designed for use with a TC, lenses not designed to work with a TC physically lack the necessary electrical contacts; unless kenko have found a way around that....

I got rid of mine but pretty sure it reported the right (corrected) aperture on 70-300L and 24-70L, none of which is designed for TC, sorry, didn't try it with 100L macro.




  
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Aug 15, 2011 18:08 |  #14

Tan - I use a Kenko 1.4 on my 100L and it reports correctly as a 140mm auto focusing is just ok until you get down to its mfd then starts to hunt, so manual is best then - it you want to try it out then give me a pm and catch up somewhere like the MRBG -there are a few bees there :)


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Aug 15, 2011 18:13 |  #15

Thanks ncsa :)


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Is Any Trick To Increase 100mm Macro Working Distance?
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