ETTL vs Manual for OCF

I'm looking at getting into some ocf for portraits of kids in a make shift studio in the garage. I've never played with manual settings on flash so was leaning at ETTL solution such as the ST-E2 with my 550ex.

Manual options seem more cost effective but how hard is the learning curve and what other pros are there of manual options as I'm leaning towards a Yongnuo 560 and some triggers?

If you are in a studio situation manual is the only way to go. It is more cost effective as you can get non TTL triggers. The huge advantage is once you get the proper output power it is consistent shot to shot. TTL re-calculats every shot.

Manual is no harder that TTL. Once you learn how to use it it easier than using TTL. A good investment is a flash meter to set the flash output power for correct exposure. If I can I will use Manual over TTL hands down.

The learning curve, for manual, in a garage is surprisingly small. I've got manual AND ETTL for off-camera flash, and in the conditions you mention, I'd go manual without a doubt.
THEN, you'd also be surprised how easy it is to use manual in other conditions as well...and you'll be building flash knowledge the best way possible...manual first.

The big advantage of E-TTL is speed. Pretty much switch it on and shoot, and you'll almost certainly get something usable, or better, straight off the bat. Obviously handy if you haven't got time to mess about, but also if you or your subject is moving and the flash-to-subject distance is changing all the time, the auto-exposure system will track it. That's very hard indeed in manual. E-TTL also does high speed sync.

But probably none of those things apply in a studio style situation. Subject in one place, static lights, and plenty of time to set up (just chimp the exposure off the LCD/histogram/blinkies​). Perfect situtaion for manual - you would not use auto for that anyway.

The Way To Shoot...

The way to shoot in a studio setting is to use sudio strobes. They are of course, all manual, but they have modeling lights so you have WYSIWYG shooting.

I have a flash meter but often shoot without it because I can judge my lights from what I see,

As far as cost goes, I have a pair of White Lightning WL5000 studio flashes which I purchased twenty years ago for $50 each and have been using ever since. pro-rated they have cost me $2.50 per year each.

I also have a set of three, German made, Multiblitz monolights with snoot, grid, barndoors, filter holder and solored glass filters all in a fiberglass carry case. I purchased this set used ten years ago for $200 so the set has cost me $20 per year or something like fifty cents per monolight per month of use...

RPCrowe wrote in post #12935361
The way to shoot in a studio setting is to use sudio strobes. They are of course, all manual, but they have modeling lights so you have WYSIWYG shooting.

I have a flash meter but often shoot without it because I can judge my lights from what I see,

As far as cost goes, I have a pair of White Lightning WL5000 studio flashes which I purchased twenty years ago for $50 each and have been using ever since. pro-rated they have cost me $2.50 per year each.

I also have a set of three, German made, Multiblitz monolights with snoot, grid, barndoors, filter holder and solored glass filters all in a fiberglass carry case. I purchased this set used ten years ago for $200 so the set has cost me $20 per year or something like fifty cents per monolight per month of use...

I had Multiblitz Variolites when I had my commercial studio in the 1980s-90s, excellent flashes. In about 10 years of ownership I never once blew a modelling light globe. At that time they were up there with Hensel and Elinchrom flashes,, and left Bowens for dead.

I'm surprised they aren't popular these days.

I agree with the advice given so far. For a studio set-up, manual is the way to go. Especially if you want to get creative. ETTL will always give you the "optimal" light results but sometimes you are not going for the typical balanced image. You may want a dark background but you want your subject well lit.

With manual, you can really control all the elements of your image. The learning curve as mentioned is fairly small. If you already use your camera in manual mode, then you probably understand how shutter speed/aperture affect your image output. Apply those same ideas to a light in which you are manually controlling the light output. It def takes some playing around with and experimenting to test theories and ideas you may have but once you do a few tests, you will be well on your way and glad you went manual :]

I've never actually used ETTL other than with the built-in popup flash. But I recently got a basic "Strobist" setup, and went through this learning curve myself. I found it to be pretty straightforward. To be fair, I did have the benefit of David Hobby's DVD lessons that I borrowed from a friend, and that helped. But it's really not that complicated. You have both the camera and the flash in full manual mode, and pretty quickly you understand how to set things to get the results you want. To me, it's really all about where you place the light(s) relative to your subject, and you'd really need to learn than even with ETTL because everything changes when you move the light.

And frankly, I think it is just more rewarding to learn it and set everything yourself rather than letting the camera do it automatically. i've come to feel that way more and more, even with non-flash camera automatic stuff. Shooting in manual more and more.

Finally, the cost difference is really significant. You can build a complete light stand setup with flash, radio trigger and modifier for about half the cost of a 580EXii alone. Around $200 per stand should do it if you use a non-ETTL flash. So to me the choice seems pretty clear, particularly for a studio situation.

Thanks all for the great information. If I wanted to do some shoots outside vs. in the garage any advice on set-up? Is it fair to assume that manual is still the way to go?

In manual, you set the exposure to be proper for your subject. Simple, right? If your subject moves, you probably need to change one or two settings to compensate for distance. Less simple.
If your subjects are moving about fast, you need to adjust settings quickly, and accurately, to get the proper light on the subject. Much less simple.
Only you can decide what you need.
Bride/groom moving towards you....kinda hard with manual.
Bride/groom on 30ftx30ft dance floor doing the polka...doable with manual, but easier with ettl.
Bride/groom giving a speech...easy with manual.
Getting kids going down a 20ft slide towards you? Very hard with manual.

Brilliant! That's exactly what I was looking for.

ootsk wrote in post #12947272
In manual, you set the exposure to be proper for your subject. Simple, right? If your subject moves, you probably need to change one or two settings to compensate for distance. Less simple.
If your subjects are moving about fast, you need to adjust settings quickly, and accurately, to get the proper light on the subject. Much less simple.
Only you can decide what you need.
Bride/groom moving towards you....kinda hard with manual.
Bride/groom on 30ftx30ft dance floor doing the polka...doable with manual, but easier with ettl.
Bride/groom giving a speech...easy with manual.
Getting kids going down a 20ft slide towards you? Very hard with manual.

Manual is the only way to go.. indoors or out. Get it off the camera and on stands with modifiers. Trigger with pocket wizards, etc.. Use ND filters on your lens to reduce the amount of light coming in so you can adjust shutter speed / aperture, etc..

I use the OCF ETTL cord and then set my speedlight settings in my MKIII to manual. This allows me to adjust the power settings of the speedlight at the camera. I'll use ETTL sometimes unless the light levels mean to low of a shutter speed to start with without bumping up the ISO more than I desire. I used to have Skyports for wireless this way but eventually felt I liked it better without having to make sure batteries were good and I keep the 16' OCF cord in the front pouch of my bag at all times, instead of having to plan to have my Skyports (which are generally attached to my strobes) along in the bag.