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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Critique Corner 
Thread started 16 Aug 2011 (Tuesday) 01:26
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Mucisian

 
markisclueless
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Aug 16, 2011 01:26 |  #1

Hi, just bought my first dSLR (Canon 550d) and attempted to capture a few B/W shots ... Not fully manual yet but did try and control the Aperture / ISO / Shutter Speed ....
A little history as to my thought process:
(a) As it was B/W, I wanted to concentrate on Contrast and tried keeping my ISO as low as possible to limit noise (could not get the musician in proper focus)
(b) I wanted to keep most sections in focus, so tried to keep Aperture high ...
(c) The musician was moving so tried to keep my Shutter speed quick to aid sharpness

I am still learning here, so ALL critic/advise is MOST welcome ....

If I want to only have the musician in focus, do I lower my Aperture (ie around F2) and make my Focus point central on musician ????

Here are the important Specs of the attached photo:

Aperture: F6.3
ISO 100
Shutter Speed: 1/100


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Canon 7D mk2 | Canon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II | Canon 400mm DO IS II

  
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Woodworker
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Aug 16, 2011 03:39 |  #2

You won't go far wrong - keep practising with your new camera.

David


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vk2gwk
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Aug 16, 2011 04:06 |  #3

Welcome to the forum!
You seem to understand the significance of the various parameters: aperture, shutterspeed and ISO. And that is already a lot compared to other "beginners" on the forum.
Yes, by widening your aperture (is lower number) you reduce the depth of field (DOF). It also allows you to use a higher shutterspeed and lower ISO.
There are some really bright sections in the background. Did you use "spot" metering or evaluative? By using "spot" when focussing on the musician you get the right exposure for him - now he is a tad underexposed -.
Also a bit of fill flash might have helped to get more light where it counts: your musician. Because of the fairly wide dynamic range of light (bright background areas and dark foreground (fence the guy is sitting on) the fill flash might have given you more light in the "in between" range. Most people seem to think that when it is sunny you won't need flash... I think that that is when you need flash most!
Keep shooting and experimenting: they only way to learn and get it right more often than not!


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markisclueless
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Aug 16, 2011 06:19 |  #4

Correct, I used evaluative, so by using spot and correctly focus on the "subject" (in this case musician) the exposure will be correct ..... thanks for the hint about the flash and its uses, the problem with this shot is the light/sun was behind him (I know not ideal but had limited time for shot) ....

vk2gwk wrote in post #12943617 (external link)
Welcome to the forum!
You seem to understand the significance of the various parameters: aperture, shutterspeed and ISO. And that is already a lot compared to other "beginners" on the forum.
Yes, by widening your aperture (is lower number) you reduce the depth of field (DOF). It also allows you to use a higher shutterspeed and lower ISO.
There are some really bright sections in the background. Did you use "spot" metering or evaluative? By using "spot" when focussing on the musician you get the right exposure for him - now he is a tad underexposed -.
Also a bit of fill flash might have helped to get more light where it counts: your musician. Because of the fairly wide dynamic range of light (bright background areas and dark foreground (fence the guy is sitting on) the fill flash might have given you more light in the "in between" range. Most people seem to think that when it is sunny you won't need flash... I think that that is when you need flash most!
Keep shooting and experimenting: they only way to learn and get it right more often than not!


Canon 7D mk2 | Canon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II | Canon 400mm DO IS II

  
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markisclueless
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Aug 16, 2011 06:21 |  #5

thanks David, look forward to improving - this site really inspires a newby like me;)

Woodworker wrote in post #12943564 (external link)
You won't go far wrong - keep practising with your new camera.

David


Canon 7D mk2 | Canon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II | Canon 400mm DO IS II

  
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Iguanasan
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Aug 16, 2011 13:06 as a reply to  @ markisclueless's post |  #6

Looks like you are off to a great start. Everyone has their own workflow but I much prefer spot focus as vk2gwk mentioned as it lets you determine exactly what you want to meter. That being said, everyone's different and so you have to decide what works for you.

The subject is a bit underexposed which is likely because the scene on the right is extremely bright which caused the evaluative metering to under-expose the musician. In this case moving yourself to the right and the camera to the left might have had just the ship in behind the subject and given you a more even lighting situation to meter.

Also, ISO 200 is perfectly adequate and will allow more light without hardly any noise. I don't bother with ISO 100 unless it's super bright or a studio type shot with controlled lighting.




  
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markisclueless
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Aug 17, 2011 01:53 |  #7

Excellent, thanks for your feedback .... after previous feedback, was also thinking that a step to the right would have made a significant difference ..... thanks

Iguanasan wrote in post #12945823 (external link)
Looks like you are off to a great start. Everyone has their own workflow but I much prefer spot focus as vk2gwk mentioned as it lets you determine exactly what you want to meter. That being said, everyone's different and so you have to decide what works for you.

The subject is a bit underexposed which is likely because the scene on the right is extremely bright which caused the evaluative metering to under-expose the musician. In this case moving yourself to the right and the camera to the left might have had just the ship in behind the subject and given you a more even lighting situation to meter.

Also, ISO 200 is perfectly adequate and will allow more light without hardly any noise. I don't bother with ISO 100 unless it's super bright or a studio type shot with controlled lighting.


Canon 7D mk2 | Canon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II | Canon 400mm DO IS II

  
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