Prime Time Sprint Cars

I seem to get a ton of strange looks when I show up with a prime lens on a camera to shoot sprints, and yeah, I lose the flexibility of a zoom.........but the cut your eyes out sharpness, makes up for it, when the foot zoom, and the drivers line converge.

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pin sharp....and great detail. The first one could use some fill flash to bring a bit more detail out.

Then I may as well just wait until a red flag and shoot the cars, as the flash will give them a nice parked look, just like 99% of the sprint cars shots taken around the globe look like.

good to see you're open to suggestion

shoot in the dark then

Its night racing,,,,,,,,,why would I want to make it look like day racing?

Cool shots I would love to see these on dirt .

Bosscat wrote in post #12952164
Then I may as well just wait until a red flag and shoot the cars, as the flash will give them a nice parked look, just like 99% of the sprint cars shots taken around the globe look like.

I agree..keep shooting the way you are

Cheers

Nice shots. I always enjoy seeing your panning photos, they're excellent.

you can still use a slight amount of fill flash with panning shutter speeds just to add a little light to bring up the dark areas of the car, like under the top wing of that car. just a thought.

Try a flash when it gets dusty like this, let me know how that works.........LOL

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Geez, its not for EVERY scenario. I guess you didnt ask for C&C.

Bosscat wrote in post #12964006
Try a flash when it gets dusty like this, let me know how that works.........LOL

Whats the matter.....you don't like pics like this? ............a flash at a dirt track at night does not always work very well!

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That would of been a good shot of the Baconator if not for the dust lol

as for when I shoot I prefer not to use a flash at all but I will do a bit of both through out the night, I think with the norman 200b and 400b's if your shooting at 200 watts a second or higher you can still get the wheel movement in the tires at about 1/200 sec or so, but with any of the hotshoe flashes the flash duration is so quick that it just locks everything up.

tholland wrote in post #12966742
Whats the matter.....you don't like pics like this? ............a flash at a dirt track at night does not always work very well!

I have seen some pretty gross flash at night when its dusty photos, with the little orbs of dust just making a mess, which I suppose you could clone out, with content aware or whatever editting tool you choose.

Brandon Anderson Photos wrote in post #12968226
I think with the norman 200b and 400b's if your shooting at 200 watts a second or higher you can still get the wheel movement in the tires at about 1/200 sec or so, but with any of the hotshoe flashes the flash duration is so quick that it just locks everything up.

There is a guy that shows up two or three times a year with a Norman and a 7d, and I call him Manfred Mann, as we are Blinded By The light.

Me myself would rather go with fast glass and a clean high ISO body.

If you can use a 135L F2.0........it IS the bomb for night racing.