Cross your eyes to merge the pictures (just for fun).
oldvultureface Goldmember More info | Aug 16, 2011 20:27 | #1 Cross your eyes to merge the pictures (just for fun).
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GaryMcDuffie Goldmember 3,022 posts Likes: 1 Joined Oct 2008 Location: Scottsbluff, NE USA More info | Aug 16, 2011 20:43 | #2 KEWL! Took a bit of practice, but it is great! Gary
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mikewinburn Goldmember 1,609 posts Likes: 6 Joined Jan 2010 Location: NYC More info | Aug 16, 2011 20:47 | #3 my monitor's too big... i couldn't merge them hahaha Gear: The Official Gear List / Market Feedback / Sig thread #2468
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Tiberius Goldmember 2,556 posts Likes: 11 Joined Apr 2008 More info | Aug 16, 2011 22:19 | #4 Looks good, but it's off a little in places. For example, the left hand pic has a dark line around the bottom of the bucket in bottom center, and the right hand pic doesn't. My photography website!PHOCAL PHOTOGRAPHY
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kirkt Cream of the Crop More info | Aug 16, 2011 22:40 | #5 Neat. DO a google search for stereo photography and "window" to read up on registering your images so that the frames of each image coincide and do not get misregistered. This little detail will really make that stereo pair even better! Kirk
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Aug 17, 2011 05:49 | #6 Tiberius47 wrote in post #12948672 ... but it's off a little in places. kirkt wrote in post #12948820 ... to read up on registering your images so that the frames of each image coincide ... I know. I should have taken the pictures with two bodies simultaneously. The sun setting rapidly and the slight change in perspective created several incongruities. I did do some quick and sloppy cloning to correct the most obvious flaws.
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kirkt Cream of the Crop More info | Aug 17, 2011 09:18 | #7 To get the windowing proper you can adjust the way that you mount the images side-by-side in a pair. You don't need to take the images with two separate bodes simultaneously, unless there is all sorts of motion or lighting changes, etc. Like I said, try reading up on it and you can tweak that pair above. I think there is a 3D sticky thread in this forum in the B&W and Experimental section as well. Kirk
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Not perfect, but better. Taken from the RAW originals.
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GaryMcDuffie Goldmember 3,022 posts Likes: 1 Joined Oct 2008 Location: Scottsbluff, NE USA More info | Aug 17, 2011 19:11 | #9 Much better. I'm really surprised how realistic it is! Gary
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Aug 17, 2011 20:25 | #11 kirkt wrote in post #12954206 Nice! And thanks for pointing me to the 3D sticky.
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J-Blake Great Googley Moogley! More info | Aug 18, 2011 11:26 | #12 I wish there was a sticky on how to view these things. I have never been able to do it. Jon
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Aug 18, 2011 11:36 | #13 J-Blake wrote in post #12957617 I wish there was a sticky on how to view these things ... From six years ago (thanks again, Kirk):
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joedlh Cream of the Crop 5,512 posts Gallery: 52 photos Likes: 684 Joined Dec 2007 Location: Long Island, NY, N. America, Sol III, Orion Spur, Milky Way, Local Group, Virgo Cluster, Laniakea. More info | Aug 18, 2011 11:40 | #14 How much time separated the two shots? The biggest anomalies that I see are with respect to the shadows on the floor in the foreground. These appear to be caused by a change in the angle and quality of the rays in the setting sun from moment to moment. The clearest example is the shadow of what looks like a sign on a post or a parking meter. It's a foot closer to the Rim Clamp box in one shot. This effect also accounts for the dark line on the barrel, as somebody noticed. Otherwise, it's a compelling shot. Joe
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Several minutes. Both photos were 14 shots between 15 seconds and 1/500 second at one stop intervals near sunset, hence the disparity in the floor shadow. Some cloning was done to minimize the discrepancy in the larger shadow above the one you mentioned. Metering was not in the usual sense. Used live view for focusing and metered using the live histogram. Set the initial shutter speed to put the shadows in the left third of the histo' and kept increasing the shutter speed 'till the highlights showed in the last third of the histogram.
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