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Thread started 16 Aug 2011 (Tuesday) 22:49
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Georgia Dome Lighting

 
slimenta
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Aug 16, 2011 22:49 |  #1

Will be shooting there 9/3, any insight appreciated.


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MJPhotos24
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Aug 17, 2011 16:06 |  #2

Since you're a SportsShooter member have you checked the guide yet?

There's one post on there about settings, looks good for light.


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slimenta
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Aug 17, 2011 19:54 |  #3

MJPhotos24 wrote in post #12953310 (external link)
Since you're a SportsShooter member have you checked the guide yet?

There's one post on there about settings, looks good for light.

Read it, it was 6 years old, wondering about anything new.


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1DX x 2, 1D Mark IV X 4, 5D Mark III x 3, 200-400, 4.0, 400 2.8 (II), 300 2.8, 200 2.0, 70-200 2.8 (II),135 2.0, 85, 1.2, 50 1.2, 24 1.4, 17-55 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 16-35 2.8, 28-300 3.5-5.6, 100-400 4.5-5.6, 16-35, 2.8, 8-15, 4.0 fisheye, 1.4 X and 2X TC

  
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cecilc
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Aug 17, 2011 20:21 |  #4

slimenta wrote in post #12948875 (external link)
Will be shooting there 9/3, any insight appreciated.

Ahhh ... shooting the Boise State/UGA game ?? I'll be there, too .....

The lighting in the Dome is pretty good, with the usual light drop-off at the end zones. It seems strange, but the end zones are still the dimmest area of the field, even in the Dome ....

I shoot in manual mode at, usually, 2.8.
And I've found that if you're shooting at 2.8, then your shutter speed can be half of your ISO .... that's a good starting point for exposure, and you can tweak it from there after you're on the floor and take a couple of shots as a test.

Hope that helps .... feel free to e-mail me if you have any other questions.


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slimenta
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Aug 17, 2011 20:29 |  #5

cecilc wrote in post #12954489 (external link)
Ahhh ... shooting the Boise State/UGA game ?? I'll be there, too .....

The lighting in the Dome is pretty good, with the usual light drop-off at the end zones. It seems strange, but the end zones are still the dimmest area of the field, even in the Dome ....

I shoot in manual mode at, usually, 2.8.
And I've found that if you're shooting at 2.8, then your shutter speed can be half of your ISO .... that's a good starting point for exposure, and you can tweak it from there after you're on the floor and take a couple of shots as a test.

Hope that helps .... feel free to e-mail me if you have any other questions.

Cecil,

Thanks, helps a lot. So, 1/1600 at ISO 3200? Hmm, different than others have said. Will probably bring my 200, 2.0.

S


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1DX x 2, 1D Mark IV X 4, 5D Mark III x 3, 200-400, 4.0, 400 2.8 (II), 300 2.8, 200 2.0, 70-200 2.8 (II),135 2.0, 85, 1.2, 50 1.2, 24 1.4, 17-55 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 16-35 2.8, 28-300 3.5-5.6, 100-400 4.5-5.6, 16-35, 2.8, 8-15, 4.0 fisheye, 1.4 X and 2X TC

  
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MJPhotos24
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Aug 17, 2011 20:55 |  #6

slimenta wrote in post #12954544 (external link)
Cecil,

Thanks, helps a lot. So, 1/1600 at ISO 3200? Hmm, different than others have said. Will probably bring my 200, 2.0.

S

Didn't realize it was that old, when's the last time any of the guide was updated? Seems way out of date on everything.

Off topic, but with the Mark IV are you uncomfortable shooting high ISO?

Noise wise at 3200 it's not a problem at all, 4000 is fine, but curious for another reason.


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Mike Janes Photography (external link) - Four Seam Images LLC (external link)
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slimenta
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Aug 17, 2011 21:40 |  #7

MJPhotos24 wrote in post #12954668 (external link)
Didn't realize it was that old, when's the last time any of the guide was updated? Seems way out of date on everything.

Off topic, but with the Mark IV are you uncomfortable shooting high ISO?

Noise wise at 3200 it's not a problem at all, 4000 is fine, but curious for another reason.

Not at all uncomfortable at 3200. Except, limits crop if necessary. Although I have gone higher, I will comfortably go to 6400 again as long as I can limit crop. I think that the guide is updated anytime someone adds to the particular thread.


www.stevenlimentanipho​tography.com (external link)
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1DX x 2, 1D Mark IV X 4, 5D Mark III x 3, 200-400, 4.0, 400 2.8 (II), 300 2.8, 200 2.0, 70-200 2.8 (II),135 2.0, 85, 1.2, 50 1.2, 24 1.4, 17-55 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 16-35 2.8, 28-300 3.5-5.6, 100-400 4.5-5.6, 16-35, 2.8, 8-15, 4.0 fisheye, 1.4 X and 2X TC

  
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MJPhotos24
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Aug 18, 2011 02:19 |  #8

slimenta wrote in post #12954888 (external link)
Not at all uncomfortable at 3200. Except, limits crop if necessary. Although I have gone higher, I will comfortably go to 6400 again as long as I can limit crop. I think that the guide is updated anytime someone adds to the particular thread.

Yea, it's just not that often that it is - though for the most part policies and lighting stay the same for several years at a time.

I've heard a lot of people talking about the IV performing badly in bright light and high ISO, not focusing, etc. I'm having problems but got a loaner from them to test both with all different lenses and compare to see what is working and what isn't - so far my 400 & IV are failing every test, their IV with my 400 is bad but with the 300 is spectacular, gonna need a tune up - but it's more than a few others saying likewise unfortunately.

I've gone up to 8000 routinely with no hesitation because of the noise, rather have noise than blur, but yes the crop does change.


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Mike Janes Photography (external link) - Four Seam Images LLC (external link)
FSI is a baseball oriented photo agency and official licensee of MiLB/MLB.
@FourSeamImages (instagram/twitter)
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cecilc
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Aug 18, 2011 08:29 |  #9

slimenta wrote in post #12954544 (external link)
Cecil,

Thanks, helps a lot. So, 1/1600 at ISO 3200? Hmm, different than others have said. Will probably bring my 200, 2.0.

S

Steve .....

Yea, I think that "equation" will hold up for you.
As I said, that's a good starting point for you, even if you have to adjust up or down a third or so after you're there.

Cecil


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slimenta
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Aug 18, 2011 20:34 |  #10

MJPhotos24 wrote in post #12955882 (external link)
Yea, it's just not that often that it is - though for the most part policies and lighting stay the same for several years at a time.

I've heard a lot of people talking about the IV performing badly in bright light and high ISO, not focusing, etc. I'm having problems but got a loaner from them to test both with all different lenses and compare to see what is working and what isn't - so far my 400 & IV are failing every test, their IV with my 400 is bad but with the 300 is spectacular, gonna need a tune up - but it's more than a few others saying likewise unfortunately.

I've gone up to 8000 routinely with no hesitation because of the noise, rather have noise than blur, but yes the crop does change.

Mike,

Have not had the same problem with my 400. I suspect that you have an issue that would be solved by micro adjustment. Have always thought that it was tough to do.


www.stevenlimentanipho​tography.com (external link)
http://www.sportsshoot​er.com/members.html?id​=8865 (external link)
1DX x 2, 1D Mark IV X 4, 5D Mark III x 3, 200-400, 4.0, 400 2.8 (II), 300 2.8, 200 2.0, 70-200 2.8 (II),135 2.0, 85, 1.2, 50 1.2, 24 1.4, 17-55 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 16-35 2.8, 28-300 3.5-5.6, 100-400 4.5-5.6, 16-35, 2.8, 8-15, 4.0 fisheye, 1.4 X and 2X TC

  
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MJPhotos24
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Aug 19, 2011 02:05 |  #11

slimenta wrote in post #12960108 (external link)
Mike,

Have not had the same problem with my 400. I suspect that you have an issue that would be solved by micro adjustment. Have always thought that it was tough to do.

It is definitely not the micro adjustment, been there and done that so know the difference. This is a problem with both the IV and the 400...with every body the 400 images are coming out looking like they are tilt shift, very odd and just plain out unacceptable, have been given one suggestion and will see how that works since it could be just that a few screws are loose I could tighten up.

The IV with different lenses is very inconsistent at best and focusing perfect on some but horrible on others, even when the subject is not moving - and I mean it goes from dead on to completely out of focus without changing a single setting or re-focusing. Bright light and high ISO is just horrendous right now so the IV and 400 are going in for a tune up and if it doesn't work then honestly I'm ending my relationship with CPS, I've spent near a grand in just shipping charges the last year sending it in to be fixed and coming back with the same problems. There's another Canon place I hear is spectacular, send in once and done, so will give that a try like several others I know have who had the same issues of getting the same problems back from CPS they sent in.

If it gets to the point nothing works then fine, my relationship with Canon is over! This is a full time job and I need results, not excuses, hate to say it but could happen, though after hearing the results from this other place (amazing) my guess is that won't happen and whatever is wrong will be fixed. The shots tonight with their IV and my 300 were spectacular, just like yesterday in bright light - high ISO tonight, so just a guess needs the right tech to find the problem and back on track.


Freelance Photographer & Co-founder of Four Seam Images
Mike Janes Photography (external link) - Four Seam Images LLC (external link)
FSI is a baseball oriented photo agency and official licensee of MiLB/MLB.
@FourSeamImages (instagram/twitter)
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Rocketdun
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Aug 23, 2011 20:30 |  #12

As had been said lighting in the end zone if pitiful, but that has been said not only here but on the Sports Shooter board also. That should be a great game to shoot. A friend who shoots there regularly says he switches to the "Faithful" setting on his camera. I think the fall off in the end zones is because the walkways right behind the seating area is dark, until you get to the food vendors. Good Luck enjoy the shoot


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