Avoiding green tint from overhead trees

So what's the secret -- in camera or out -- of avoiding or getting rid of the green tint that can result in people's skin from being surrounded by leafy green trees? I know the obvious answer-- don't put them there! But sometimes for outdoor weddings the only shade is amonst trees. Thanks!

I either shoot a custom WB or do it in post. Mostly post. Everything is shot Raw. Sometimes, if I am pressed for time, I will just take a shot with a sheet of white paper in it to use as a reference for the post processing.

rral22 wrote in post #12971805
I either shoot a custom WB or do it in post. Mostly post. Everything is shot Raw. Sometimes, if I am pressed for time, I will just take a shot with a sheet of white paper in it to use as a reference for the post processing.

What program do you use for processing & could you explain what you do in post processing to fix the tint? If it's not too complicated to type.

There are a ton of tutorials out there...http://www.youtube.com …1&list=PLD8F1DE​14441B1EF6

A quick way in PS, although sometimes it takes a little playing around with the sampled color for better results. Then, there has been a few times this just didn't work at all for some reason . As anything in PS, there are many ways to do things.

Use the eyedropper to click where should be neutral. Fill a new blank layer with that color. Invert. Change blend mode to Softlight (sometimes Overlay) and apply a mask to where you want to get rid of the cast. Can adjust the layer opacity a bit also.

Another way is to use a curves adjustment. Place a sample point where should be neutral. Adjust each channel to neutral and mask as needed.

As D Thompson said, the eyedropper tool is your friend. Lightroom does most of it; DPP does the rest.

Get yourself something truly white that you take to shoots, and then you can use a shot of it to get the adjustments you need. It's a custom WB after the fact.

Thanks, everyone! Gonna try that white paper trick; or I guess a gray card would work too?

White paper is better than nothing... maybe. Sometimes it has bluing and isn't really white.

A couple options:
WhiBal card
Photovision calibration target

These things are just tools. Remember, the "correct" white balance is not necessarily the "best" white balance. But they'll give you a benchmark to start from.