So what are the 'standards' for tripods?

Hi all, I'm looking for a new tripod. I'm still using an old cheapo (couldn't even tell you the brand off hand). I mean the bottom barrel stuff. There's no level indicator. Very plasticky quick release plate (I think of the tilt/pan variety). It doesn't use a head (?) That's it.

That said, it has served its purpose fairly well, surprisingly enough. Camera's never fallen over, or off it. I would say my biggest gripe about it is that its max height is woefully ineffective. It doesn't even come up to eye level.

So then, I'm looking to buy something better. A real tripod if you will (maybe not, depending on what your view is, heh!) Something in the $200 and lower range. Any sort of 'standards' that you can generally point a person to? I guess what I'm really asking for is a suggestion including heads as well.

My demands are not great, considering what I'm coming from, anything would be an improvement. Maybe something with a level that will aid in doing some interiors as well? (Although I mainly shoot portraits) The Manfrotto 055XPROB Tripod / 496RC2 Ball head looks good (saw a guy's youtube vid), but I have no real point of reference. That's where you guys come in!

I just got the reccomended 055XPROB setup you are talking about. It is awesome. holds my 5d with 70-200/2.8 fine. There are some 055Xprob that will pop up on the Marketplace that you can go to for cheaper.

Tripod

Head

Here is that combo you are talking about with $60 back in rebates. Tons of rebates are available too for the manfrotto stuff

Remember that you can only have two of these three things in a tripod: low weight, stability and cheap price. That's all you need.

For example, Manfrotto makes killer sticks, very stable and inexpensive...but very heavy. Gitzo makes very expensive, very light, and very stable sticks. It's all a tradeoff. Pick your poison.

I think the Slik Pro line of tripods is the best value for the money. They will have plenty of choices in your price range. Make sure you look at the Pro DX series and skip the others.

I have owned a Slik Pro 700DX for years and have been 100% satisfied with it.

You could also get just the legs and add an inexpensive ball head like the Adorama Flashpoint F-1 as shown in this post.

ask yourself very carefully why you want a tripod with center column. It adds weight and cost. If you have to use it...the tripod is too short for you.

gorby wrote in post #13000151
The Manfrotto 055XPROB Tripod / 496RC2 Ball head looks good (saw a guy's youtube vid), but I have no real point of reference. That's where you guys come in!

The 055XProB is a great choice for the legs, but up your head choice to the Manfrotto 498RC2. It's a much better choice for tripod use because it's sturdier (less creep) than the 496 and it has the very useful pan release knob that lets you move the camera sideways without unlocking the main ball.

Hi gorby , looking at the O55xxxxxx tripods my self , check out the review on cameralabs review on all 4 tripods your looking .

Look at the heights with and with out extentions up.

I have never seen a 055XProB in person, but they come highly recommended here. I recently purchased a Giottos MTL 9360B. I still have my Slik Pro 700 DX. It's a great tripod for the price. The only reason I added the Giottos was the multi-position center column. I shoot lots of macro and it enables me to get shots previously unavailable.

Here's a fellow P.O.T.N. member's photos of it in use... though mine is an aluminum model with flip lock legs. See post #739

https://photography-on-the.net …highlight=Giott​os&page=15

While there are no standards, per say, there are several things that distinguish a tripod that will last many years and give great results and an inferior one.

Many years ago, I had a Bogen Rep go over tripods with me and showed me what to look for. First are the shape of the legs and the method of tightening them when you extend them. A round section leg will be stiffer and more resistant to twist than a leg with flat sides, especially one that is simply a “C” channel rather than a full square or rectangle. For the same weight and thickness, a tubular leg will be stronger then a square or rectangular section leg.

The next thing to look at is the method of tightening the legs when extended. You want to make sure that you get a tripod with a screw lock tightening method, either one you twist like a bottle top or one that clamps with a wing nut type of lock. These locking methods will allow for wear and keep the legs tight by simply screwing the lock further. You want to avoid and lever type of leg locking because they have no adjustment. The lever works by clamping a pad, usually nylon, or something similar against the leg. Over time the leg or the pad will wear and lose its clamping ability and there is no way to adjust the lever to take up the slack. The leg(s) will start to collapse when any weight is applied.

Now it’s time to test the stability of the tripods you are considering. Fully extend the legs and grasp the casting that holds the legs and where the neck protrudes with both hands. Try to twist the tripod and observer how much the legs bend and how much movement you get at the top of the tripod. This is basically the amount of movement you can expect with you camera mounted. You can move the camera by simply pushing the shutter or using a long lens in windy conditions. You want as stable a platform as you can get. Any tripod will twist given enough force, but this test is a good way to compare different tripods.

I use a very beefy Bogen tripod in the studio, but using this testing method I ended up buying a Vanguard Carbon Fiber travel tripod complete with a decent ballhead for $250.00 roughly. I don’t remember the model number exactly, but I seem to remember it was a 248 CT, or something like that. Vanguard makes the same tripod with aluminum legs and the difference in rigidity using the twist test was amazing.

There is only 1 standard to a tripod. Three legs.

OutaFocus wrote in post #13003227
You want to avoid and lever type of leg locking because they have no adjustment. The lever works by clamping a pad, usually nylon, or something similar against the leg. Over time the leg or the pad will wear and lose its clamping ability and there is no way to adjust the lever to take up the slack. The leg(s) will start to collapse when any weight is applied.

The lever locks on my old Bogen/Manfrotto 3021 were adjustable.

The 'standards' to meet...

• vibration resistance
  
• torsional rigidity
  
• ability to hold the weight
  
• sufficient range of elevation (depending your needs, it permits position low to ground to tall enough to permit high camera position)
  

I have a Manfrotto 190XPROB, a little lighter, cheaper, shorter, but just as effective version of the 055XPRO. B&H photo has a good deal on them right now, $204.00 plus 10% rebate for tripod, bag, and decent ball head combo.

DavidR wrote in post #13003442

The lever locks on my old Bogen/Manfrotto 3021 were adjustable.

I have a 3021 also and that is exactly what i meant by Wing nut type clamps. Sure, there is only one side of the wing, but they screw in as I described. They are not levers like I described. The screws allow the clamps to adjust to make up for any kind of wear. The levers I was talking about work on a cam that presses a pas of material against the leg to hold it open. They simply use friction of the clamping action to lock the legs.