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Thread started 27 Aug 2011 (Saturday) 08:19
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first soccer game tomorrow

 
Brian_R
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Aug 27, 2011 08:19 |  #1

so just wanted to make sure i have everything down right that i want todo

will be using my 7D and a borrowed sigma 70-200 2.8

before the game starts im going to do some focus tests to make sure that its not crazy out of focus since that is possible although i have faith in sigma, and if so ill micro adjust using a piece of paper.

game is at 3 in the afternoon sooo

i planned on shooting jpeg, evaluative metering, single center point focus with spot focus turned on, servo

depending on sun conditions i wanted to put the sun behind the player or across from me. using sun as backlight.

does that all sound right? my first time shooting soccer in the daytime, i normally have to shoot at night under stadium lights




  
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tracknut
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Aug 27, 2011 11:17 |  #2

I don't shoot soccer, but with the sun behind the players, I would not be using an automatic metering mode. If the light is fairly consistent I'd dial in a manual setting that meters well for the players and isn't affected unduly by your sunlight.

Good luck!

Dave


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Brian_R
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Aug 27, 2011 12:03 |  #3

after thinking about it my best choice might be using the sun as a key light

my only question is what AF point setup do i use. i normally shoot with single center spot focus




  
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slimenta
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Aug 27, 2011 15:56 as a reply to  @ Brian_R's post |  #4

A couple of thoughts. First, bright sun is tough in regards to shadows and balancing your exposure for very bright background. There is also a balance depending on the color of the uniforms that are being worn. White and black uniforms are the extremes. I usually shoot in manual mode, wide open with an ISO to achieve a shutter speed of 1/1600. I take test shoots to get my optimal exposure. Your light meter will only be partially helpful. I pick exposure to optimize facial expressions. Positioning of course is to give me the sun as close to my back as possible, but I also try to optimize backgrounds. So, I may give up position to try for better backgrounds. I have given you a link to a gallery from thursday night. I started shooting at 6 PM so there were WB issues:

http://www.sportsactio​ndigital.com …cJGmHZ#14480812​04_hKCmNX7 (external link)


www.stevenlimentanipho​tography.com (external link)
http://www.sportsshoot​er.com/members.html?id​=8865 (external link)
1DX x 2, 1D Mark IV X 4, 5D Mark III x 3, 200-400, 4.0, 400 2.8 (II), 300 2.8, 200 2.0, 70-200 2.8 (II),135 2.0, 85, 1.2, 50 1.2, 24 1.4, 17-55 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 16-35 2.8, 28-300 3.5-5.6, 100-400 4.5-5.6, 16-35, 2.8, 8-15, 4.0 fisheye, 1.4 X and 2X TC

  
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Brian_R
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Aug 27, 2011 16:44 |  #5

thanks. i was planning on just shooting 1/1000 but ill try to push it to 1600. and ill be putting the sun towards my back then. i plan on shooting mainly from the four corners of the field are those generally good spots or it depends most of the time

great set of photos in that gallery. i now see from the sun in those why you shoot that way.




  
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slimenta
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Aug 27, 2011 17:24 |  #6

You did not say what level you are shooting at, but 1/1000 will not stop all of the action. You may get by with 1/1250. I end up there at times, but prefer 1/1600-12000. I usually shoot either at the baseline or at the 18. Depends on the play and my goals. IMHO, the best shots of facing players usually come from the baseline of players making runs towards the goal. The 18 gives you better keeper shots. Most teams favor their right. So given a choice and if light is right, I am usually to the left of the goal facing up field (the offensive teams right. If I am on the baseline, I usually move to where the 18 hits the baseline which allows me to get the front of the goal. Depending on the ref, they will rarely not allow you on the baseline. At a professional match, that is often the only place you can shoot.


www.stevenlimentanipho​tography.com (external link)
http://www.sportsshoot​er.com/members.html?id​=8865 (external link)
1DX x 2, 1D Mark IV X 4, 5D Mark III x 3, 200-400, 4.0, 400 2.8 (II), 300 2.8, 200 2.0, 70-200 2.8 (II),135 2.0, 85, 1.2, 50 1.2, 24 1.4, 17-55 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 16-35 2.8, 28-300 3.5-5.6, 100-400 4.5-5.6, 16-35, 2.8, 8-15, 4.0 fisheye, 1.4 X and 2X TC

  
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Brian_R
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Aug 27, 2011 17:28 |  #7

ooh thanks. i will be on the field with full access




  
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ajaffe
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Aug 28, 2011 01:27 |  #8

I would be extremely surprised if you could rattle off anything that slow for a game running from 3-5pm.


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Brian_R
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Aug 28, 2011 07:43 |  #9

well if the sun is direct with no clouds im sure ill be able to get shutter speeds way past 1/2000 @ ISO100 f2.8 i think




  
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slimenta
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Aug 28, 2011 14:20 |  #10

Brian_R wrote in post #13012897 (external link)
well if the sun is direct with no clouds im sure ill be able to get shutter speeds way past 1/2000 @ ISO100 f2.8 i think

In the brightest sun with a normal background at 2.8 you will get about that. That is absolutely bright, no shadows. More likely is an ISO of 200.


www.stevenlimentanipho​tography.com (external link)
http://www.sportsshoot​er.com/members.html?id​=8865 (external link)
1DX x 2, 1D Mark IV X 4, 5D Mark III x 3, 200-400, 4.0, 400 2.8 (II), 300 2.8, 200 2.0, 70-200 2.8 (II),135 2.0, 85, 1.2, 50 1.2, 24 1.4, 17-55 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 16-35 2.8, 28-300 3.5-5.6, 100-400 4.5-5.6, 16-35, 2.8, 8-15, 4.0 fisheye, 1.4 X and 2X TC

  
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Brian_R
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Aug 28, 2011 16:06 |  #11

so i am really disappointed because of how many shot i missed because not only was the 70-200 lens that i borrowed a sigma and had to be micro adjusted to my camera but is was a MACRO and didnt take a single sharp photo past about 25 feet :(

i think in total i missed maybe 200 shots that could maybe be usable but they are all out of focus :( :(




  
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ajaffe
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Aug 28, 2011 22:14 |  #12

They make a macro only 70-200?


www.jaffe.photo

  
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Brian_R
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Aug 28, 2011 22:26 |  #13

apparently. also apparently it does not perform well on the 7D according to some other threads i was linked to about 7D users and macro 70-200




  
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ajaffe
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Aug 29, 2011 01:00 |  #14

I thought macro only pertained to minimum focal distance. It affects maximum?


www.jaffe.photo

  
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Brian_R
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Aug 29, 2011 06:21 |  #15

i dont know. but this lens performed terribly when shooting far away and that not to mention the terrible CA wide open. im starting to believe this is a 'you get what you pay for' situations. because i looked it up and this lens goes for $800 so its a really cheap 70-200 2.8 and didnt nearly come close to the performance of the 70-200 2.8 USM that i borrowed from a friend in the past




  
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first soccer game tomorrow
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