Pixel King ETTL Trigger Controller

JOSX2 wrote in post #15558645
I've only used eneloops in mine since I got them about 1.5 years ago. NO problems whatsoever.

& they last a good long while too before needing a recharge

This is also good to know. I'd prefer to use Enoloops if possible to cut down on the cost of non-rechargables in the house. I too have never had an issue with using them, and it seems I got my red flashing led figured out as a firmware issue, so I think I'll stick with the Enoloops in my pixel kings.

Mesmer wrote in post #15556116
Problem solved! I had bought one of my units from a member here and it wasn't the same firmware version as my other units. So now they're all upgraded to the same version and all have blue lights flashing for stand by!

I use rechargeable alkalines just to make sure that the voltage is there. Eneloops in the flash and Imedions in the battery pack. Each is good at its own job.
Edit: used my phone for this, didn't mean to quote the above ...

I have another less expensive brand, and the receivers automatically shut off like a minute later, requiring a flip of the switch which is annoying.

How about this Pixel King? Does it shut off automatically, or stay on as long as the user wants?

...

mdvaden wrote in post #15792637
I have another less expensive brand, and the receivers automatically shut off like a minute later, requiring a flip of the switch which is annoying.

How about this Pixel King? Does it shut off automatically, or stay on as long as the user wants?

I've been using the King's for about 6 months now. They do go to sleep with no activity after a couple of minutes, but only require a half press of the shutter to bring everything back to life. About the same as my camera. I've never missed a shot because of this.

hyram wrote in post #15793127
I've been using the King's for about 6 months now. They do go to sleep with no activity after a couple of minutes, but only require a half press of the shutter to bring everything back to life. About the same as my camera. I've never missed a shot because of this.

Oh ...

Well much better ... mine, say if using one flash, or two flash, need a click back and forth of a tiny, not too easily reached switch, on each one of the receivers.

A 1/2 shutter press would be a piece of cake.


...

Was shooting an event Thursday night. Simple set-up with a flash bracket, trigger and receiver.

At first the flash decided to barely fire. So I changed the batteries in the flash, receiver and trigger. Worked for a few shots. Then it would fire a full flash. No TTL.

No clue what happened but I have a wedding this weekend.

CosmoKid wrote in post #15855578
Was shooting an event Thursday night. Simple set-up with a flash bracket, trigger and receiver.

At first the flash decided to barely fire. So I changed the batteries in the flash, receiver and trigger. Worked for a few shots. Then it would fire a full flash. No TTL.

No clue what happened but I have a wedding this weekend.

Initial reaction is that the Tx unit wasn't FULLY pushed into the hotshoe. Slide it in, wind the locking wheel HALF way down and wiggle the Tx unit. The locating pin should be in the hole and the unit should be impossible to remove. Once that pin is engaged, you are able to tighten up completely in the knowledge that everything is aligned as it should be.

Okay - some type of glitch here, help appreciated.

Canon 6D
Firmware in kings v1030
New energizer batteries in all Kings.
Flash metering set to Average.
ETTL works with "wireless flash" set to off, even with multiple flashes.
When I turn wireless flash ON (the only way to get to A:B menu) in ETTL mode it fires everything full power. If i remain in that mode and adjust the zoom, both flashes update. Switch to manual, and all flashes adjust accordingly, and work properly. So ETTL is the only thing that doesn't work in that menu.

So I cannot use the ratio menus or ETTL when the "wireless flash" menu is active. I also note that I cannot turn "master flash" option to "fire".

Any ideas?

Is there any resolution for the zoom related underexposure issue described in post 562? I'm having exactly the same with 5D3, 580EXII and 24-70LII. Work great under 40mm, massive underexposure beyond.