New to studio photography, flash, etc. Will this work?

I wanna start practicing shooting small objects indoors when the weather in Chicago get UGLY.

Will something like this work for me to practice with? I wanna shoot lenses, cameras, small objects, etc.

http://www.amazon.com …F8&qid=13146485​51&sr=8-16

Buylongterm wrote in post #13020048
I wanna start practicing shooting small objects indoors when the weather in Chicago get UGLY.

Will something like this work for me to practice with? I wanna shoot lenses, cameras, small objects, etc.

http://www.amazon.com …F8&qid=13146485​51&sr=8-16

You can get just as good results using a cardboard box and a couple of table lamps as this kit. All you need to do is cut the ends from a carboard box, line it with white paper and tape white paper over the end of the box you've opened.

If you are serious about photography you probably want to step up to a system that uses strobes. It gives you more power and the increased depth of field you need for shooting up close.

Gonzo is right, that looks like a waste of money.

Thank you. So I'm not one to build anything, so could you suggest a setup and lighting that's affordable?

Buylongterm wrote in post #13021631
Thank you. So I'm not one to build anything, so could you suggest a setup and lighting that's affordable?

I would start with a light tent like this one, or another do some searches for similar products, http://www.skaeser.com …t-lighting%2Clight/Detai​l

Then I would pick up two inexpensive manual flashes, like the YN 460 or perhaps vivitar 285's. This type of work will pretty much require manual flash anyway so there is no need to spend extra for auto features.

gonzogolf wrote in post #13022013
I would start with a light tent like this one, or another do some searches for similar products, http://www.skaeser.com …t-lighting%2Clight/Detai​l

Then I would pick up two inexpensive manual flashes, like the YN 460 or perhaps vivitar 285's. This type of work will pretty much require manual flash anyway so there is no need to spend extra for auto features.

What is said here.

Buylongterm wrote in post #13021631
Thank you. So I'm not one to build anything, so could you suggest a setup and lighting that's affordable?

First you have to decide what you want to invest in the setup.
Calumet has nice tables as well as light tent enclosures.
Strobes or speedlites are probably better than continuous light because most digital cameras are less than optimal for longer exposures.

I use moonlights because I want flexibility regarding exposure, background, and depth of field.

If you want to try this on a budget, get a collapsible light tent and two or three inexpensive manual speedlites, along with wireless triggers.

I would strongly recommend using some sort of flash rather than continuous lighting.

Using a light tent is one of the easiest ways to control lighting. If you combine a light tent with a pair of small studio type strobes which incorporate modeling lights; you can control the amount of shadow and reflections in your image. Modeling lights provide WYSIWYG shooting. If you use hotshoe strobes, you will be shooting blind. It can be done. However, I can drive nails using a ball peen hammer but, a claw hamer is much more suited to the job.

As far as going through the trouble of fabricating a light tent from a cardboard box, I would not go that route. I do like DIY projects but, when you can get a commercial product which will do the job as well or better than the home-made setup; that is the way I will usually go if the price is right. I like this type of light tent because it works well, is relatively inexpensive (under $20 USD with shipping) and best of all IT FOLDS UP TO BE STORED. I don't know about you guys but, my wife doesn't appreciate a jury-rigged cardbard box sitting around the house...

http://www.ebay.com …ain_0&hash=item​20b92765a1

As far as studio flash is concerned; the quality of your setup depends on how much you expect to use it. I have a pair of cheap Chinese studio strobes which I use as background and hair lights in my White Lightning setup. They have been working for years and I paid less than $30 each for them. I would never consider them for 8 hours a day, 5 days a week use but, for occasional hobby work; they do just fine. The nice thing about studio strobes is that you can trigger one of them with a sync cord and the second will fire from its optical slave. You can of course, use them for other than small parts photography with the light tent.

However, if you are careful about the heat, a pair of home depot worklights can work great. Use either the hologen types which are quite hot or an incandescent clamp light using a photoflood bulb.

Just to be clear, I wasnt advocating that he make a box, but that if he did it would have provided similar results to that included in his link which is a total ripoff.

Thank you guys so much. I also do NOT like DIY projects, so I would prefer just to buy it instead. I forgot to mention I own a Speedlite 580 EX II.

So, on that note, I should get the following???

1. Light tent
2. (Speedlite, which I own)
3. Wireless trigger
4. 2 small studio strobes......
6.?

Since I don't want to spend a ton of money right off the bat, does certain brands/manufactures make a HUGE difference when it comes to lighting?

If someone could layout exactly what I need, brand model, etc. that's very affordable I would be eternally grateful.

Since you have one speedlite, you really only need another strobe (speedlite), and a wireless trigger system like the YN RF602 to trigger them. For this type of work the flashes you use are not all that important because the light tent will spread and diffuse the light. In a perfect world you would have a matched set so you can dial in ratios evenly, but thats really a minor matter. Some have mentioned using studio strobes, but you can easily use inexpensive hotshoe flashes rather than monolights.

gonzogolf wrote in post #13024774
Since you have one speedlite, you really only need another strobe (speedlite), and a wireless trigger system like the YN RF602 to trigger them. For this type of work the flashes you use are not all that important because the light tent will spread and diffuse the light. In a perfect world you would have a matched set so you can dial in ratios evenly, but thats really a minor matter. Some have mentioned using studio strobes, but you can easily use inexpensive hotshoe flashes rather than monolights.

Thank you so much. So your saying I should by this trigger system?

http://www.amazon.com …TF8&qid=1314723​901&sr=8-3

Buylongterm wrote in post #13024827
Thank you so much. So your saying I should by this trigger system?

http://www.amazon.com …TF8&qid=1314723​901&sr=8-3

Yes, only find a package that includes at least 2 receivers (3 would be better). You want one receiver for each flash you plan to use. Given the affordability of these units having an additional spare would be handy. Because if you want another one later, it might be hard to find.

Ok, here comes a stupid question. What's the difference between these?

Yongnuo 2.4GHz Wireless Flash Trigger/Receiver and Shutter Remote for Canon:
http://www.amazon.com …TF8&qid=1314723​901&sr=8-3

and this one.

http://www.amazon.com …TF8&qid=1314742​412&sr=8-6
Yongnuo RF-603 C3 2.4GHz Wireless Flash Trigger/Wireless Shutter Release Tranceiver Kit for Canon

the second one is the new model. Its a transceiver system so that either unit can be the transmitter or receiver. I suggested the older model because of its record of dependability and simplicity. I'm sure either model would do well for you.