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Thread started 14 Sep 2011 (Wednesday) 06:50
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A couple from last nights studio session

 
jwkramer
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Sep 14, 2011 06:50 |  #1

Here are a couple of shots from last nights water drop session. These are with the newly built drop tank that measures 48x19x2. The tank holds 5 gallons of water, so coloring the drop tank water takes a lot of dye.

Shot #1:

IMAGE NOT FOUND
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Open Wide (external link) by IR Cincy Jim (external link), on Flickr

Shot #2:
IMAGE NOT FOUND
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Sea Blue Green & Red Collision (external link) by IR Cincy Jim (external link), on Flickr

C&C always welcome, and very much appreciated!

See more shots like this HERE (external link)

-Jim
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I'm no Einstein, but I do own 3 of them...

  
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JPayne
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Sep 14, 2011 07:15 |  #2

Beautiful


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Dermit
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Sep 14, 2011 08:49 |  #3

Jim, great stuff, love the second one most. I've been thinking about building a larger drop tank so I can get these low angle shots like this. What did you build it out of? Any chance of seeing a setup shot?


5DmkII, 5DmkIII, 5DS R, 15mm, 16-35 f/2.8 II L, 100 Macro f/2.8 L, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, 85 f/1.8, 580EX II, 580EX, 550EX
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jwkramer
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Sep 14, 2011 09:02 |  #4

Dermit wrote in post #13101447 (external link)
Jim, great stuff, love the second one most. I've been thinking about building a larger drop tank so I can get these low angle shots like this. What did you build it out of? Any chance of seeing a setup shot?

I started with a 55 gallon aquarium. I was not able to cut the glass down myself due to the thickness of it. I tried the normal 'score & snap' method and it just laughed at me. I had to take the glass pieces to a glass shop to have them cut down. I am still messing with the lighting with the new deeper tank. The fact that the white backdrop is now 3' from the drop zone has significantly lowered the back light, which is largely responsible for the color and vibrance of the shot. Right now, I am still not 100% happy. I have FIVE strobes running, and it's still not enough light for my liking. I have 3 additional strobes coming (they come from China, so they take FOREVER). Once they show up, I'll most likely double some of them up to get more light. What a PITA. :-)

Here is a shot of the Drop Tank being built:

IMAGE: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6198/6142219296_74df4021ea_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ircincyjim/6142​219296/  (external link)
HURRY UP!!! - Dry Already! (external link) by IR Cincy Jim (external link), on Flickr

I'm still having a blast though!

I hope to get a setup pic taken this weekend. I was waiting until after the new tank was done.

Cheers!

-Jim
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I'm no Einstein, but I do own 3 of them...

  
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Dermit
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Sep 14, 2011 09:38 |  #5

Jim,
WoW! Very cool! You are quite a few steps ahead of me, that's for sure. I've had ideas in my head about something like this, but far from executing on it. As far as the backdrop goes... are you flashing through it, or bouncing off it? Can't tell from this shot if it is translucent or not. Anyway, a thought... what if you create a 'swoop' back-wall where the curve comes up from the water to form the backdrop. If you can get it lit right you may not see the 'horizon', or it may be minimal, of where the water surface meets the background. If you can get this then you can position the 'drop zone' closer to the background and therefore have less light fall off which should get you more light on the action.


5DmkII, 5DmkIII, 5DS R, 15mm, 16-35 f/2.8 II L, 100 Macro f/2.8 L, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, 85 f/1.8, 580EX II, 580EX, 550EX
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jwkramer
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Sep 14, 2011 10:12 |  #6

Dermit wrote in post #13101716 (external link)
Jim,
WoW! Very cool! You are quite a few steps ahead of me, that's for sure. I've had ideas in my head about something like this, but far from executing on it. As far as the backdrop goes... are you flashing through it, or bouncing off it? Can't tell from this shot if it is translucent or not. Anyway, a thought... what if you create a 'swoop' back-wall where the curve comes up from the water to form the backdrop. If you can get it lit right you may not see the 'horizon', or it may be minimal, of where the water surface meets the background. If you can get this then you can position the 'drop zone' closer to the background and therefore have less light fall off which should get you more light on the action.

I am currently bouncing off of it. It is translucent, but there is more light loss shooting through it. By painting the backside of the glass white it puts a highly reflective surface towards the drop. In my experience, anything less than having the backdrop continue below the water line causes a very noticeable line. I have tried many, many different approaches. If you find something that works, please let me know. I would love to try it!

-Jim


-Jim
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Dermit
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Sep 14, 2011 10:24 |  #7

jwkramer wrote in post #13101874 (external link)
I am currently bouncing off of it. It is translucent, but there is more light loss shooting through it. By painting the backside of the glass white it puts a highly reflective surface towards the drop. In my experience, anything less than having the backdrop continue below the water line causes a very noticeable line. I have tried many, many different approaches. If you find something that works, please let me know. I would love to try it!

-Jim

I currently have been shooting through the background, but also am creating a different look than what you are going for too. Instead of glass I am using those cheap plastic colored folders kids use for school. Since I usually shoot the more low-key moody look I often times get away with just two lights even though I own four.
I am not expert in reflection and refraction (but have been learning) but since you have a glass tank can you get any light into play by shooting up through the bottom or does most of it just reflect off the under-surface of the water and bounce back down? Also, have you tried any shots with the camera underneath looking straight up through the drop? I was wondering about that the other day.
Anyway, it sounds like we are both trying to figure out similar things. I have ideas I have not tried yet. I will keep you posted on what I try and what may work.


5DmkII, 5DmkIII, 5DS R, 15mm, 16-35 f/2.8 II L, 100 Macro f/2.8 L, 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, 85 f/1.8, 580EX II, 580EX, 550EX
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jwkramer
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Sep 14, 2011 10:28 |  #8

Dermit wrote in post #13101924 (external link)
I currently have been shooting through the background, but also am creating a different look than what you are going for too. Instead of glass I am using those cheap plastic colored folders kids use for school. Since I usually shoot the more low-key moody look I often times get away with just two lights even though I own four.
I am not expert in reflection and refraction (but have been learning) but since you have a glass tank can you get any light into play by shooting up through the bottom or does most of it just reflect off the under-surface of the water and bounce back down? Also, have you tried any shots with the camera underneath looking straight up through the drop? I was wondering about that the other day.
Anyway, it sounds like we are both trying to figure out similar things. I have ideas I have not tried yet. I will keep you posted on what I try and what may work.

I currently use a piece of white glass in the bottom of the tank. I have shot light up through the bottom, but with the opaque glass, and the deep color of the water it's pretty much useless. I may experiment a bit more with that. The idea of shooting up through the bottom is interesting indeed! I may have a go at that to see what it looks like. I love the brainstorming... thanks for the ideas!


-Jim
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I'm no Einstein, but I do own 3 of them...

  
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jwkramer
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Sep 14, 2011 12:36 as a reply to  @ jwkramer's post |  #9

one more...

IMAGE NOT FOUND
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Flat Top (external link) by IR Cincy Jim (external link), on Flickr

-Jim
Please Visit My Website! (external link)
I'm no Einstein, but I do own 3 of them...

  
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A couple from last nights studio session
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