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Thread started 17 Sep 2011 (Saturday) 01:05
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Question on CP and ND filters

 
skater911
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Sep 17, 2011 01:05 |  #1

COuple questions. Most of my lens are 77mm and a couple are 72mm. I was going to buy a ND and CP and get them in 77 and just get a step down ring so it fits the 72mm lens. Now I know hoods will probably be out of the question (atleast for the ND filters), but any other issues I need to think about, I am not going to stack them.

Second question is regarding Calumet filters, they indicated that they are schnider glass. The price difference isn't a whole lot so it isn't a huge discount compared to B+W or Hoya. Anyone have any feedback?


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argyle
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Sep 17, 2011 05:41 |  #2

First, you'd need a STEP-UP ring, not step down ring. Second, I wouldn't recommend using any type of adapter ring with a circular polarizer or any type of filter that rotates...you may find yourself in a difficult situation when trying to separate the filter from the ring. I also wouldn't recommend a Hoya polarizer...they have a propensity of coming apart unexpectedly. Some will more than likely post that theirs never came apart, but there are plenty of threads/posts on that very problem if you search the Accessories forum. B+W would be the better option, IMO. Two polarizers, 77 and 72, would be the best option (looking at your gear list, that shouldn't present a problem...and who wants to fuss with step rings/rotating filters).


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skater911
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Sep 17, 2011 10:46 |  #3

argyle wrote in post #13117481 (external link)
First, you'd need a STEP-UP ring, not step down ring. Second, I wouldn't recommend using any type of adapter ring with a circular polarizer or any type of filter that rotates...you may find yourself in a difficult situation when trying to separate the filter from the ring. I also wouldn't recommend a Hoya polarizer...they have a propensity of coming apart unexpectedly. Some will more than likely post that theirs never came apart, but there are plenty of threads/posts on that very problem if you search the Accessories forum. B+W would be the better option, IMO. Two polarizers, 77 and 72, would be the best option (looking at your gear list, that shouldn't present a problem...and who wants to fuss with step rings/rotating filters).


Good point about the cp's didn't think of that. I will do a little more reading in the assy section, thanks


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ni$mo350
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Sep 17, 2011 11:09 |  #4

You have good glass so please for the love of god don't cheap out on the filter. B+W or Hoya HMC or Singh Ray. I personally use B+W and love them. I also don't suggest the step up ring (even though I use it) because that eliminated the use of your hood. I'm going to be picking up another B+W 72mm CPL to go with my 77mm so I won't run into either of the problems mentioned.


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amfoto1
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Sep 17, 2011 11:54 |  #5

When it comes to C-Pols, I recommend the B+W Kaesemann in particular.... They are the top-of-the-line, give smoothest effects and are very neutral in color. Very well made.

I'm not a big fan of step up rings and using oversized filters, simply because it usually precludes using a lens hood. When using a filter you have two or more additional glass/air transitions to be concerned about, so a lens hood is even more important than when shooting without any filter. I carry at least one C-Pol filter sized to fit each lens (58, 72 and 77 in my case... plus 52mm drop-ins). I do use step rings, but only to stack all my filters for convenient, safe storage.

You might be able to prioritize using on one lens or another, getting only the most important size right now.... for example, among your lenses I'd be much more likely to use a C-Pol on 24mm and 24-70, both of which use 77mm. Of course, you might feel differently.

You are looking at ND filters? For what purpose? I ask because some folks mix them up with Graduated ND filters. On the other hand, particularly with folks now using many of these lenses and cameras for video, regular NDs are becoming a lot more popular.

Graduated ND are better bought in the rectangular type. Screw in type place the transition at the middle of the image, every image you take. Rectangular are used in holders that allow you to adjust and position the transition to match the horizon, for example, in your images. For your lenses, you'd need "Cokin P" size at a minimum. Not necessarily Cokin filters (which are cheap and a good way to experiment, but might be hard to find since Cokin is in bankruptcy, last I heard). Other manufacturers such as Lee and Singh-Ray make rectangular ND-Grads in "Cokin P" size. They also sell holders and accessories to fit the same. This type filter can be bought in optical plastic (some are quite good) and glass, but most are uncoated. A hood of some sort is a good idea.

With ND and ND-Grads you'll have to decide on the strength you need too.

ND-Grads for use with scenic shots, I'd recommend 1-stop and 2-stop, which can be combined to give 3-stops if ever needed. With ND-Grads, you also can choose between hard and soft transitions. It's difficult to recommend which (many folks end up getting both).

There are variable NDs, or a wide variety of them in different strengths. They are relatively expensive. As far as I know, the more affordable variable filters (similar to using a C-Pol) are not multi-coated or particularly high quality glass. The best variables (perhaps Singh Ray?) are quite expensive... probably multi-coated and good glass.

Non-variable ND filters come in a huge range of densitities. It completely depends upon what you want to shoot and the ambient conditions, how strong you'll need. ND filters are widely available from different manufacturers, including B+W who offer both multi-coated (MRC) and less expensive single or uncoated versions. Therre are other good brands, besides B+W: Hoya (HMC or SHMC "Pro 1") and Heliopan (SH-PMC) I can vouch for personally. I also hear a lot of good things about Marumi brand, but haven't used them. Even Kenko, Tiffen and some others make some high quality versions. My main concern with a filter of this type would be mulit-coating and completely neutral color.

I have not used Calumet's filters. They are undoubtedly made for them by someone else (pretty much everything under the Calumet label is outsourced). They might be pretty good. Schneider Kreuznach is a quite good glass and lens manufacturer. The best filters from the German manufacturers use Schott glass. That's all Heliopan uses... I think they get their glass from Zeiss. But some of the Japanese manufacturers pretty much match it for quality. In fact, many Zeiss, Hasselblad and other highly regarded lenses are now being made in Japan.


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pwm2
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Sep 17, 2011 12:04 |  #6

argyle wrote in post #13117481 (external link)
Second, I wouldn't recommend using any type of adapter ring with a circular polarizer or any type of filter that rotates...you may find yourself in a difficult situation when trying to separate the filter from the ring.

Been there, suffered that. Was really awful to manage to get the step-up ring from the CPL.

amfoto1 wrote in post #13118486 (external link)
When it comes to C-Pols, I recommend the B+W Kaesemann in particular.... They are the top-of-the-line, give smoothest effects and are very neutral in color. Very well made.

But the non-Kaesemann should also be good. The difference with the Kaesemann is that it is sealed at the sides to stop moisture from getting where the glass is laminated. So people living in dry regions and that doesn't take their gear into tropical houses or similar can manage will with the standard edition.


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Sep 17, 2011 12:15 as a reply to  @ pwm2's post |  #7

I won't shoot without a hood...

Walking along the street on day with my camera on a strap around my neck, I tripped on a broken piece of sidewalk and fell. The lens hit hood first propelled by all my weight. The hood was toast but, the lens was unscratched.

Shooting my big dog, a 65-pound Goldendoodle, indoors one day, she decided to lick my camera lens. The hood protected the lens from her wet slobbery kiss.

A hood is definitely a required part of my kit, indoors and out. I wonn't shoot without one on my lens. The hood not only protects against flare but against physical damage...


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skater911
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Sep 17, 2011 16:50 |  #8

At amfoto,

I have grad nd filters square, but was going to get a nd for the 85 for use when it is really sunny. Since there really isn't much about the calumet glass I think I will stay away. I was only considering it was similar quality, like I said the price was that much cheaper. As for the step up and down rings thanks for everyones input, I thought I could cheap out and buy one, but it looks like I should just get it for both sizes.


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Hogloff
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Sep 17, 2011 17:34 |  #9
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RPCrowe wrote in post #13118538 (external link)
Walking along the street on day with my camera on a strap around my neck, I tripped on a broken piece of sidewalk and fell. The lens hit hood first propelled by all my weight. The hood was toast but, the lens was unscratched.

Shooting my big dog, a 65-pound Goldendoodle, indoors one day, she decided to lick my camera lens. The hood protected the lens from her wet slobbery kiss.

A hood is definitely a required part of my kit, indoors and out. I wonn't shoot without one on my lens. The hood not only protects against flare but against physical damage...

The hood is a pain in the butt when using a polarizer which I do for basically 75% of my photos. I go hoodless in those cases...but am on a tripod so more likely to be careful.




  
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Question on CP and ND filters
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