-=1D Mk II and Mk IIn Owners Unite! (Round 2)

edwmag wrote in post #15852899
1D2N + 17-40 + 580 w/GaryFong

Exquisite detail

danielkucin wrote in post #15859084
Exquisite detail

It's like car engines,,, there's no replacement for displacement,,,,,,,, and there's no substitute for big-ass ****ing pixels. Not quite so catchy though.

Well, Spring Football is done. Roll on Fall.

Mk II + 70-200F4L.

Sharp much?

^^^yes indeed. Awesome.

s'more,,

Awesome series...number 2 is the best for me. I am really glad I bought this camera. I love it.

What setting do you have for sports? Do you mind sharing or give me a link?

Peter2516 wrote in post #15864460
^^^yes indeed. Awesome.

Thanks man

Peter2516 wrote in post #15864472
Awesome series...number 2 is the best for me.

This one?

Peter2516 wrote in post #15864472
What setting do you have for sports? Do you mind sharing or give me a link?

For action shots,,,,,,,

If I'm at an indoor venue with artificial lighting,, or shooting a night game under floodlights, I use Manual and Spot Metering,, and just wing it.

However, I mostly shoot in daylight,,,these settings work fine for me:

AV Mode
Aperture Wide Open
AI SERVO
Whatever ISO I need to maintain 1/1000th sec
Evaluative metering
RAW ,, Always always always shoot RAW,,, if you mess up,, you can fix a RAW file more often than JPG. This is not just a photographer 'snob' thing,,, make a habit of shooting RAW,, the reduced burst size is more than worth it. I remember I shot a football game once (admittedly on my old 1d III) and I must have somehow set the Exposure Compensation minus a FULL stop. Had I been shooting JPG, every single shot would have been a bust,, but I was able to save many good pics from the RAW files,, it also taught me to review my pics now and again and to check out an occasional histogram during the course of an afternoon.

I use back button focus with things like Indycars or whenever I'm panning,, but for field sports like football & soccer, I get almost the same number of keepers using shutter button half-press.

I shoot everything +1/3 of a Stop because my body seems to underexpose a tad,,, your body may be different,,, don't do this if you don't need to,, as it will slow your shutter speed. Just experiment,, remember it's always better to under-expose by a third than over-expose and blow out the highs (another reason to shoot RAW)


Cfn settings: (unless noted,, settings are 0)
01-1
02-1
08-1
13-1
17-1
18-1
20-3
00-1

All personal functions (P.fn) are default.

In 'Parameters' in the first MENU,,, I use 'SET 1' with the settings:

Tone Curve: Standard
Sharpness 5 (this is important,, if shooting RAW, your shots will look soft if you don't have this set,,,, it's basically the same thing as adding +25 Sharpening in LR 4, but it's nice to have the camera do it for you,,, don't worry,, it doesn't reduce the burst depth.)
Contrast +1

The most important thing with sports, especially youth sports, is to get low to the ground,, it makes the players look powerful and larger than life. I see other parents shooting games with 5D III's & expensive 400mm lenses on a 6ft monopod and all they get are the tops of the kids helmets and they're coming to me for prints from my 10 year old 8mp camera. With sports, a 1D body helps,,,but technique is everything,, that pair of floor-layers knee-pads from Home Depot will be the best $10 you ever spent if it helps you get the shot

The second most-important rule of action photography,,, keep the sun behind you. When you're on the field,,, look down at your shadow,,,, if possible, that's the exact direction your lens should be pointing (not always possible though)

In my experience, the 1d mk II produces very clean files up to and including ISO 800 ,,, if you have to jump to 1600 or higher,,, you should probably break out the 7D.

juckerz wrote in post #15864539
For action shots,,,,,,,

If I'm at an indoor venue with artificial lighting,, or shooting a night game under floodlights, I use Manual and Spot Metering,, and just wing it.

However, I mostly shoot in daylight,,,these settings work fine for me:

AV Mode
Aperture Wide Open
AI SERVO
Whatever ISO I need to maintain 1/1000th sec
Evaluative metering
RAW ,, Always always always shoot RAW,,, if you mess up,, you can fix a RAW file more often than JPG. This is not just a photographer 'snob' thing,,, make a habit of shooting RAW,, the reduced burst size is more than worth it. I remember I shot a football game once (admittedly on my old 1d III) and I must have somehow set the Exposure Compensation minus a FULL stop. Had I been shooting JPG, every single shot would have been a bust,, but I was able to save many good pics from the RAW files,, it also taught me to review my pics now and again and to check out an occasional histogram during the course of an afternoon.

I use back button focus with things like Indycars or whenever I'm panning,, but for field sports like football & soccer, I get almost the same number of keepers using shutter button half-press.

I shoot everything +1/3 of a Stop because my body seems to underexpose a tad,,, your body may be different,,, don't do this if you don't need to,, as it will slow your shutter speed. Just experiment,, remember it's always better to under-expose by a third than over-expose and blow out the highs (another reason to shoot RAW)


Cfn settings: (unless noted,, settings are 0)
01-1
02-1
08-1
13-1
17-1
18-1
20-3
00-1

All personal functions (P.fn) are default.

In 'Parameters' in the first MENU,,, I use 'SET 1' with the settings:

Tone Curve: Standard
Sharpness 5 (this is important,, if shooting RAW, your shots will look soft if you don't have this set,,,, it's basically the same thing as adding +25 Sharpening in LR 4, but it's nice to have the camera do it for you,,, don't worry,, it doesn't reduce the burst depth.)
Contrast +1

The most important thing with sports, especially youth sports, is to get low to the ground,, it makes the players look powerful and larger than life. I see other parents shooting games with 5D III's & expensive 400mm lenses on a 6ft monopod and all they get are the tops of the kids helmets and they're coming to me for prints from my 10 year old 8mp camera. With sports, a 1D body helps,,,but technique is everything,, that pair of floor-layers knee-pads from Home Depot will be the best $10 you ever spent if it helps you get the shot

The second most-important rule of action photography,,, keep the sun behind you. When you're on the field,,, look down at your shadow,,,, if possible, that's the exact direction your lens should be pointing (not always possible though)

Thanks I appreciate it. I am making notes of it. Thank you thank you so much for this settings and tips.

I still have a 1D, two IIn's and a III...most of the work goes to the IIn's. I do believe that my last three 'Best Sports Photo' first place winners were shot on IIn's...I'd have to look...I won't get rid of mine for a while! I don't use my stuff strictly for sports, either...I do editorial photography, too.

mdurisseau wrote in post #15864755
I still have a 1D, two IIn's and a III...most of the work goes to the IIn's. I do believe that my last three 'Best Sports Photo' first place winners were shot on IIn's...I'd have to look...I won't get rid of mine for a while! I don't use my stuff strictly for sports, either...I do editorial photography, too.

The 1D II's are practically a disposable camera at $500,,, they're fantastic sports shooters if you don't need to print big and are very underrated art/portrait cameras.

What else can you buy for that $? ,, a used T4i or 50D? Nah.

I would think IIn's are little more than $500...

mdurisseau wrote in post #15867935
I would think IIn's are little more than $500...

You'd be wrong. IIn's average $400-$600 on Ebay.

mdurisseau wrote in post #15867935
I would think IIn's are little more than $500...

I paid £350 for my Mark 11n before christmas...about $540 in today's dollars.