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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 10 Oct 2011 (Monday) 02:01
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Phottix Odin, Wireless E-TTL that works!!!!

 
elv
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Mar 01, 2012 01:13 |  #406

sempaidavid wrote in post #13995243 (external link)
I just checked and I can confirm SS of 1/8000th with no curtain showing on both my Einsteins and Alienbees. That's pretty awesome.

Great thanks, did you have to use full power, and is that with the 1D4?

Thats pretty impressive though as the Einsteins have a short flash duration. Generally the slower they are the better. Thats why its usually best at full or lowest power (wherever your lights have the longest duration).


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heckcare.der
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Mar 01, 2012 13:19 as a reply to  @ elv's post |  #407

Any one experience any misfire/inconsistency with the Odins? Mine has a little 'lag' issue after I fire off my shutter. 1 of my 580exII will fire, the other will fire too but alittle slower thus the camera didn't capture the flash. Working distance about 25m, open space.


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sempaidavid
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Mar 04, 2012 10:19 |  #408

I shot Roller Derby with the Odins last night for the first time. Over 1300 frames with Zero misfires or freak outs. When I shot with Pocket Wizards I would have literally had 100 frames that either misfired or grossly over-exposed. I like these things more and more all the time.


5D mkIII, 1D mkIV, Tokina 16-28 f/2.8, EF 24-70L, EF 70-200 f/2.8L II IS, EF 100-400L, EF 85 f/1.8, Sigma 50 f/1.4, EF 24-105
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DHPHOTO66
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Mar 04, 2012 19:33 as a reply to  @ sempaidavid's post |  #409

I wish Phottix had designed the Odin to mount like the STE3 :(...Maybe the MkII? :D


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elv
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Mar 04, 2012 20:42 as a reply to  @ DHPHOTO66's post |  #410

Lower profile would be nice, but I think I like the LCD on the same side as the camer LCD so you can look at them together without flipping the camera back and forth.

Also, if you don't have a neck strap to support the weight, with a 70-200mm lense its a lot more comfortable to let the weight of the lens fall straight down (so LCD up). With that ST-E3 you would be struggling to hold the camera and lens up all the time with just one hand, while adjusting the setting on the ST-E3 other.

Does that make you feel any better :D


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klr.b
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Mar 04, 2012 21:17 |  #411

The height of the Phottix TCU might make it incompatible with some rotating flash brackets. If I were to use it, I'd need to use an OC-E3 and mount it elsewhere on the bracket.


gordon
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sempaidavid
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Mar 04, 2012 22:09 |  #412

klr.b wrote in post #14024219 (external link)
The height of the Phottix TCU might make it incompatible with some rotating flash brackets. If I were to use it, I'd need to use an OC-E3 and mount it elsewhere on the bracket.

I use it with my promediagear rotating flash bracket.


5D mkIII, 1D mkIV, Tokina 16-28 f/2.8, EF 24-70L, EF 70-200 f/2.8L II IS, EF 100-400L, EF 85 f/1.8, Sigma 50 f/1.4, EF 24-105
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kingkongpipis
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Mar 04, 2012 22:23 |  #413

Hi all,

I just bought a phottix odin and a receiver couple days ago.
Yesterday when i tested it, i've found that the flash didn't give any effect below 1/250.
1/250 above the flash works just fine.

My problem just as the same with this guy in youtube -> http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=tKD1C8CkMK8 (external link)
But i'm using Phottix odin instead of Pixel King that he used on the video.

Is it my phottix odin that broken? or i need to tweak my camera settings first?
I'm using Canon 60d btw..

Need advice from you guys..

Thanks before,

Kelvin




  
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josef
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Mar 05, 2012 01:09 |  #414

Maybe I am reading this wrong, but do you mean that it works above 1/250th, i.e. 1/320, 1/500 but not 1/125 for example?

If it is the other way around, then you need to enable HSS on the Odin. If not, that doesn't sound right at all.


Canon 7D / 10-22 / 24-70L / 50mm 1.4 / 100L / 70-200 f4L/ 2 x 580exII / 430exII
"Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures."
-Henry Ward Beecher

  
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DHPHOTO66
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Mar 05, 2012 07:19 |  #415

elv wrote in post #14023946 (external link)
Lower profile would be nice, but I think I like the LCD on the same side as the camer LCD so you can look at them together without flipping the camera back and forth.

Also, if you don't have a neck strap to support the weight, with a 70-200mm lense its a lot more comfortable to let the weight of the lens fall straight down (so LCD up). With that ST-E3 you would be struggling to hold the camera and lens up all the time with just one hand, while adjusting the setting on the ST-E3 other.

Does that make you feel any better :D

Yes, I feel a lil' betta :lol:


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kingkongpipis
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Mar 05, 2012 11:28 |  #416

josef wrote in post #14025673 (external link)
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but do you mean that it works above 1/250th, i.e. 1/320, 1/500 but not 1/125 for example?

If it is the other way around, then you need to enable HSS on the Odin. If not, that doesn't sound right at all.

Your first guess is the correct one.
The flash won't work below 1/250. It works well only if i set the shutter above 1/250




  
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klr.b
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Mar 05, 2012 19:01 |  #417

kingkongpipis wrote in post #14028000 (external link)
Your first guess is the correct one.
The flash won't work below 1/250. It works well only if i set the shutter above 1/250

Does the flash work properly on camera? Verify that everything works as it should without the Phottix triggers first.


gordon
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sempaidavid
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Mar 06, 2012 10:14 |  #418

Ok, so if I am using A, B, and C groups and have the ratio set to A:B, how do I adjust the power that C will contribute. Or is it locked into the came ratio as the B group. I know this is all based on the Canon omplimentation, but I rarely used the canon optical system. Thanks for any info that anyone can provide.


5D mkIII, 1D mkIV, Tokina 16-28 f/2.8, EF 24-70L, EF 70-200 f/2.8L II IS, EF 100-400L, EF 85 f/1.8, Sigma 50 f/1.4, EF 24-105
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Yohan ­ Pamudji
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Mar 06, 2012 11:01 |  #419

Anybody using these with a 5D Classic? General consensus is that it's susceptible to RF interference, so I was wondering if that caused banding or other issues for anybody.




  
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chris_holtmeier
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Mar 06, 2012 12:38 |  #420

Yohan Pamudji wrote in post #14035384 (external link)
Anybody using these with a 5D Classic? General consensus is that it's susceptible to RF interference, so I was wondering if that caused banding or other issues for anybody.

I'm on a 5D, and haven't noticed any increase in shadow-banding with the Odins.



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Phottix Odin, Wireless E-TTL that works!!!!
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