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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 10 Oct 2011 (Monday) 02:01
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Phottix Odin, Wireless E-TTL that works!!!!

 
PhotographersWorldWide
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Apr 07, 2012 14:33 |  #526

PWard wrote in post #14223310 (external link)
So let's say I have a studio strobe and want to overpower the sun, the stratos II states it only syncs at speeds up to 1/250, so I would still have to et an Odin receiver in order to go past the max sync speed correct?

Exceeding your top sync speed won't enable you to 'overpower the sun' any more than just staying within the x-sync limitation. The greatest 'overpowering' is best achieved at max.x-sync and full power on your strobe. If that doesn't do it, you won't do it any other way without incurring some shutter shadow or graduations.




  
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Apr 07, 2012 14:37 |  #527

Sorry, I'm meaning using a wider aperture for a narrower Seth of field instead of using ND filters.


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elguapo
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Apr 07, 2012 22:44 |  #528

I just received my Phottix Odin TCU and a receiver and have a question: I set my Canon 5d II in manual mode, set the TCU to ETTL, and set the Canon 580 EX flash to ETTL on the receiver on a stand. I do a light reading with my Seikonic meter and let's say it says ISO 100, SS 100, F-Stop 4.0. I want to under expose the background, so I set the shutter speed on my camera to 200 and leave the ISO and F-Stop the same. Without adjusting anything else, the ETTL system should tell the flash to put out more power to compensate for the faster shutter, correct?

In the above scenario, my subject is coming out a stop under exposed, and I'm trying to figure out if I'm doing something wrong or if I have unit that isn't working right.


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Yohan ­ Pamudji
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Apr 08, 2012 00:16 |  #529

elguapo wrote in post #14228109 (external link)
I just received my Phottix Odin TCU and a receiver and have a question: I set my Canon 5d II in manual mode, set the TCU to ETTL, and set the Canon 580 EX flash to ETTL on the receiver on a stand. I do a light reading with my Seikonic meter and let's say it says ISO 100, SS 100, F-Stop 4.0. I want to under expose the background, so I set the shutter speed on my camera to 200 and leave the ISO and F-Stop the same. Without adjusting anything else, the ETTL system should tell the flash to put out more power to compensate for the faster shutter, correct?

In the above scenario, my subject is coming out a stop under exposed, and I'm trying to figure out if I'm doing something wrong or if I have unit that isn't working right.

Did you try an exposure at f/4, 1/100, and if you did was the subject underexposed? Could be that the flash metering needs to be bumped up a bit regardless of what you've set the ambient exposure to. Just like regular metering (and maybe more so) it's not always going to give you the correct exposure if left at default settings.




  
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elv
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Apr 08, 2012 06:02 |  #530

PWard wrote in post #14223310 (external link)
So let's say I have a studio strobe and want to overpower the sun, the stratos II states it only syncs at speeds up to 1/250, so I would still have to et an Odin receiver in order to go past the max sync speed correct?

Ok I tried hypersync with the Strato II as receiver to the Odin transmitter and its working fine. Same results as using an Odin receiver.

But keep in mind hypersync results in general vary depending on the lights and the camera body used, 5D's generally give the worst result for example. But if it works ok for you with the Odin it should be ok with the Strato II receiver as well.


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elguapo
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Apr 08, 2012 12:52 |  #531

Yohan Pamudji wrote in post #14228474 (external link)
Did you try an exposure at f/4, 1/100, and if you did was the subject underexposed?

I did, and the subject was properly exposed.


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Apr 08, 2012 12:56 |  #532

elv wrote in post #14229186 (external link)
Ok I tried hypersync with the Strato II as receiver to the Odin transmitter and its working fine. Same results as using an Odin receiver.

But keep in mind hypersync results in general vary depending on the lights and the camera body used, 5D's generally give the worst result for example. But if it works ok for you with the Odin it should be ok with the Strato II receiver as well.

Nice. So I can save a few bucks and get a strato II and still be able to achieve hyper sync with my strobe without needing to buy the more expensive Odin trigger.


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PhotographersWorldWide
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Apr 08, 2012 13:46 |  #533

PWard wrote in post #14226245 (external link)
Sorry, I'm meaning using a wider aperture for a narrower Seth of field instead of using ND filters.

No worries there then, the Odins don't do Hypersync or change the sync timing in any way, so they won't increase your output any - they will just transmit the HSS timing like any other radio can.




  
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Apr 08, 2012 13:49 |  #534

I've read where some have managed to get their strobes to fire reliably at 1/8000 sec while others have only managed 1/600 or so. I haven't had a chance to test mine out yet.


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cheryltee
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Apr 08, 2012 20:42 |  #535

I received the Odin TCU and 2 receivers last week (via 17th Street Photo on Amazon) and have used them with my 5DM2 and 7D (and 580 EX IIs). I'm loving the simplicity of the system.


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elv
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Apr 08, 2012 22:02 |  #536

PWard wrote in post #14230618 (external link)
Nice. So I can save a few bucks and get a strato II and still be able to achieve hyper sync with my strobe without needing to buy the more expensive Odin trigger.

Receiver only that is! You still need the Odin transmitter. (I think you realised that but just to be clear anyway).

You can do (hack) it without an Odin transmitter but its a more convoluted process with Canon. You need a HSS enables flash on camera, which in turn fires a manual radio trigger attached to an optic slave. The timing will be slightly different then with different triggers -

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There are 2 types of Hypersync, the one we are talking about here which the Odin do is the tail method. They don't do the Peak method like PocketWizard can to some degree.

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Apr 08, 2012 22:10 |  #537

so how should I go about testing? I still haven't had a chance to take my strobe out (9 month old consumes all my time lol). Do i keep the Odin transmitter and receiver in ETTL mode with hypersync enabled, or manual?


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elv
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Apr 08, 2012 22:25 |  #538

PWard wrote in post #14232890 (external link)
so how should I go about testing? I still haven't had a chance to take my strobe out (9 month old consumes all my time lol). Do i keep the Odin transmitter and receiver in ETTL mode with hypersync enabled, or manual?

Actually I don't think it matters what you have the Odin TCU set to in the way of ETTL or manual, as they know there is no TTL speedlight on the receiver shoe so they don't really care. I would just set it to manual full power out of habit anyway.

Just make sure you have HSS enabled on the Odin TCU.

Point the strobe at a plain wall inside, blow it out completely if you like so all your seeing is shutter curtain in the image if there is any black seen, otherwise you have a full white frame. Work your way up in shutter speeds, try full and low power on the strobe.


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Yohan ­ Pamudji
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Apr 08, 2012 23:48 |  #539

elguapo wrote in post #14230602 (external link)
I did, and the subject was properly exposed.

Well, I'm not sure why there's a discrepancy between the 1/100 and 1/200 results--too many unknowns--but E-TTL can be tricky for a variety of reasons. Here's a good resource for the basic workings of flash exposure vs. ambient exposure readings:
http://www.bobatkins.c​om …raphy/eosfaq/fl​ashfaq.htm (external link)

Just as additional info, in bright conditions I often find myself underexposing the ambient by a stop or two by way of exposure compensation in aperture priority or manually setting it underexposed in manual exposure, and adding 1+ stop of flash exposure compensation. This is probably because of the difference in how flash output is calculated for bright light, i.e. as a lower power fill flash. When the light is dim I usually shoot in manual exposure and only +1/3 flash exposure compensation (my normal exposure compensation is +1/3 as well to get the look I want, so the +1/3 isn't unusual just for flash in dim light) and get correctly exposed subjects on average. Don't know that this difference between dim and bright flash meter calculations would have mattered for your experiment, but it's something worth remembering.




  
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elv
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Apr 09, 2012 00:14 as a reply to  @ Yohan Pamudji's post |  #540

I would do an FEL (flash exposure lock) on the same place on the subject (face if its a person) at both shutter speeds. The flash exposure should definitely be the same then.

If not you may have an issue with the triggers. If exposure is the same with FEL it sounds like it was a metering issue before, which may just be technique or the conditions.


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Phottix Odin, Wireless E-TTL that works!!!!
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