Hi Mick and welcome to POTN...
Hate to tell you this, but 70-200 will be nowhere near long enough for birding... even if you add a 1.4X. It might be marginally long enough with a 2X, in which case I'd recommend the Mark II lens and Mark III 2X teleconverter, for the image quality of that combo... except that's a pricey setup that will use up a lot of your budget.
This is not a knock against 70-200... All four of the Canon are great lenses and mine is easily my single most used lens (a lot of sports photography), with one of my 300mm lenses a close second, and one or another shorter "standard" zoom as third most used.
Before you buy any 70-200, go handle the f4 and f2.8 versions in a store. The f4s are much more compact and lighter weight... not to mention less expensive. Of course, if you need f2.8, then only that will do.
For birds, a crop camera will be the best choice (for the "extra reach" of the crop) and I'd suggest at a minimum get 300/4 IS plus 1/4X. (300/2.8 IS is even better, can be used with both 1.4X and 2X, but is a whole heck of a lot more expensive, plus is not very handholdable so add another $1000 US or so on top of the cost of the lens for a solid tripod/gimbal setup.)
Some folks really like the 400/5.6 for birding, but it's going to be more of a monopod or tripod lens since it doesn't have IS. It also can't take a teleconverter as conveniently, due to it's f5.6 aperture.
Or consider a zoom.... Canon 100-400 IS is popular. Or Sigma 120-400 OS. Or Sigma 150-500 OS. None can be used very effectively with a teleconverter, though. And a prime will be a bit sharper at the long end. Sigma 120-300/2.8 is a more versatile choice, that can take a teleconverter, but at a considerably higher cost.
These are all just marginally long enough on a crop camera, for birding. You'll still need patience and/or stalking skills and/or attractants.
Actually, most serious birders will tell you no lens is long enough.... If you get a 500mm, you'll still find subjects just out of reach and will want an 600mm at times... If you get that, you'll occasionally wish you had a 800mm! That's just the nature of bird photography.
BIT are quite different than BIF (Birds in Trees vs Birds in Flight). Most recent crop cameras can handle both pretty well.... 7D has some unique focusing modes that can be useful for each (Spot Focus for BIT, Zone Focus or Expansion Points Focus for BIF, if they are against a plain/distant background.)
If birding is something you think you'll do a lot, I'd consider camera and lens for that first, then work backwards to fill in the rest of the system.
With 7D, I'd consider Canon EF-S 10-22 the top wide angle choice (it's amazingly good controlling flare, for such a wide lens). Personally I chose a considerably less expensive lens that's also quite good: Tokina 12-24/4. Not quite as wide or quite as amazing handling flare, as the Canon is... but it sells for a few hundred US $ less. Others like the Toki 11-16/2.8... I don't really need f2.8 on an UWA lens. And others like the Siggy 10-20 (now in two versions, one with variable aperture and a more expensive one with fixed f3.5). There's also Tamron 10-24 and Siggy 8-16.
Along with that UWA, you'll likely want a "standard" zoom: 24-105L IS is the premium choice.... 28-135 IS will give just as good images at 1/4 the cost, just has a variable aperture and, though it's solid mid-grade build quality, it's not as well built or sealed as the L. I have and use the 24-70/2.8L, but also have had a couple 28-135s as backups over the years and still have one... Tried out but never could justify the 24-105 personally. Other folks feel differently and love it, though.
Normally I'd point toward a faster f2.8 "standard" zoom (17-55/2.8, 24-70/2.8 or similar from Tamron, Sigma). But if you are considering some fast, compact primes for street photography, too, then you might not need a particularly fast walk-around zoom, too.
For street photography, with 7D I'd take my 20/2.8, 28/1.8, 50/1.4 and 85/1.8. With my 5DII, I'd probably use the same but add 135/2 to my camera bag. Pick and choose whatever you like to use for this type of shooting... moderately wide (20, 28) or short tele (50, 85) or a combo that makes you happy.
I agree with what Edwin wrote above, you really need to consider your priorities... what you want to shoot most... then work backward from that. This will tell you what lenses you need, as well as what camera might serve best.
Previous post is also correct: 5DII is great choice for portraits, landscapes, architecture... thanks to it's loads of detail, control over depth of field. It's also the high ISO/low light winner (by about a stop). 7D is great choice for action, moving subjects due to it's AF performance, and the "extra reach" of a cropper is useful with small critters. Either camera can be used for the opposite purposes, of course, it just will be a bit less "adept" at it.... So just choose which type of shooting will be most important to you. Both cameras have features that are useful for macro... Full frame is nice because you can use smaller apertures before diffraction issues set in... OTOH, the 7D has special macro AI Servo functionality, but only with certain Canon macro lenses.
Other cameras in the Canon line-up might serve quite well, too... Perhaps if more budget is needed for lenses, or not. For example, 50D can handle action very well, too, though it's got a much less complex/sophisticated/customizable AF system than the 7D. It's also about one stop lower high ISO capable and slightly lower resolution (15MP vs 18MP). OTOH, it can be bought for considerably less, likely leaving enough for another lens or two. 60D isn't a bad choice, either... it's articulated LCD might be handy for macro, low or high angle shooting, or for video (which 50D can't do at all). OTOH, 60D doesn't have AF Micro Adjust feature, which 50D, 5DII and 7D all have. It also doesn't have a PC sync socket for wired, manual studio strobes, while the other three cameras do (might be a non-issue... many folks use radio triggers anyway). 7D and 60D have built-in wireless flash control, which the other cameras lack... Though frankly I'd still rather use an ST-E2 module that will work on any EOS camera.
Anyway, I think you get the idea... That there are more things to consider and prioritize, based upon what you want to shoot, that will guide you to the camera and lenses that would be your best choices.
