I occasionally focus manually (most often when shooting macro), I had the 50D for a short time before getting the 7D and I believe the viewfinder on the 7D to be superior for manual focusing.
That said, I think if you take the time to learn the 7D's AF system, you will be delighted. You mention "the camera's programming cannot possibly know precisely what I want in any particular image." Check out page 89 in the 7D manual
. The "Spot AF (manual focus)" is amazingly accurate. I have been able to focus on a bird's head that is surrounded by branches in the foreground and background.
And then when you try the 19 point AF auto selection (page 90) you will be blown away. You can pick up a moving target by locking in with a particular (pre-chosen) AF point in AI-Servo mode, then as the target moves, and you follow, it will keep focus on the subject as it moves between any of the 19 points (I start with the center, but by the time I take the shot, the subject may have moved to the left of the screen as I panned with it). I love it for my kids' sports!
Buy it for the big bright viewfinder and manual focus; but I bet you find yourself using AF more. 
As far as interchangeable focus screens on the 7D, unlike the 20D, and many other bodies; there are none supported by Canon. My understanding is that they don't support it because the additional electronics built in to the screen makes it impractical for individuals to replace the screen themselves. But I would guess also because, with its superior AF system, Canon is betting that manual focusing is becoming more and more a thing of the past; the 7D's AF is that good!


