Milkyway nightscapes

jtsmith90 wrote in post #17680757
Can anyone explain or show me where I can find. A way too make these images you guys make it look easy but I always fail at it to bright then two dark.

It's a bit of trial and error out in the field, and often times takes some editing to bring the stars out. Theres exif data for a lot of these images which have been posted, so start with that. A great website focused on this type of photography is http://www.lonelyspeck​.com, but also ask around in the "talk" forum (https://photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdis​play.php?f=126) for more specifics.

John

Unfortunately there was too much light pollution to take decent pictures of the Milky Way right from the terrace of my parent's house. They live in an area where there is not so much and especially no light pollution in the right direction (South-West) but there was two lampposts right in front of their house... So I tried something different and shot what was right above their roof. This is what we have over our heads every night but we can't see it much because of light pollution...

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xrBF​8a

When doing single exposures of 20 or 30 seconds should I enable long exposure noise reduction in camera or apply noise reduction during processing??
If in camera, should I also enable high ISO noise reduction??
Camera is a 6D..... Many thanks..

don1163 wrote in post #17681287
When doing single exposures of 20 or 30 seconds should I enable long exposure noise reduction in camera or apply noise reduction during processing??
If in camera, should I also enable high ISO noise reduction??
Camera is a 6D..... Many thanks..

I just do all noise reduction in post. If I'm doing lots of long foreground exposures (5+ minutes) I'll take a dark frame at the end of the night and use pixel fixer to remove hot pixels in post.

Finally got out to shoot a timelapse of this old rusty cadillac on a clear sky night. It did not disappoint.

Here's the timelapse:

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xrB3​2L

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/wMfS​WL

don1163 wrote in post #17681287
When doing single exposures of 20 or 30 seconds should I enable long exposure noise reduction in camera or apply noise reduction during processing??
If in camera, should I also enable high ISO noise reduction??
Camera is a 6D..... Many thanks..

jsecordphoto wrote in post #17681308
I just do all noise reduction in post. If I'm doing lots of long foreground exposures (5+ minutes) I'll take a dark frame at the end of the night and use pixel fixer to remove hot pixels in post.

Hi Don, I agree with jsecordphoto. the problem with using hi ISO noise reduction in camera is that it takes much longer to save the image to card. This shortens the time you get taking actual frames just having to wait for the saves all the time.

stacking multiple frames of object as well as dark frames and PP, all help to reduce noise in the final image


Dave

I understand the extra time issue with using in camera noise reduction but don't understand stacking multiple frames...I know you stack frames in order to show star trails.. Do you mean stacking multiple identical frames? I want to do some shots of the milky way..

100% Unedted file from Wanaka

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xvit​Ey

Believe it or not I just watched this on YouTube... I see the idea behind it now.
When we have a clear night here in the UK I will go out and give it a try..seems to b we cloudy most nights recently..
Many thanks for your help.?

Very nice....

jsecordphoto wrote in post #17682838

To me, stacking wide milky way shots you get very minimal benefit than a single shot, especially for the amount of time you spend on the image. But stacking deep sky stuff, makes a huge difference.

Another thing that you could do, is instead of stacking high ISO images, purchase a tracker and just do longer exposed images on a lower ISO

NCHANT wrote in post #17682930
To me, stacking wide milky way shots you get very minimal benefit than a single shot, especially for the amount of time you spend on the image. But stacking deep sky stuff, makes a huge difference.

Another thing that you could do, is instead of stacking high ISO images, purchase a tracker and just do longer exposed images on a lower ISO

I don't find it to be that much extra effort at all, and the end result is basically 0 noise. I usually blend in long (multiple minute) foreground exposures in anyway, so adding a few minutes to the process by stacking sky frames isn't a big deal. Stacking sky frames and doing long foreground exposures at a lower ISO, I end up with a photo that has very little noise that looks amazing printed big. The only problem I have is sometimes photoshop has a hard time aligning the sky exposures, so I always take a 25" exposure at 6400 just in case

I find most single exposures (with the 6D) have incredibly little noise to start with One thing I do notice with median stacking wide angle MW shots, is you lose a lot of sharpness. And if your lens has a lot of distortion or coma in the corners, you end up with trails there too