landscapes at night

Very impressive and astonishing pictures sdommin! Every picture is so consistent and detailed. Comparable to the pictures of Architecture books. Keep up the good work!

You took them with G6? I just had my G6 and used it at night without tripod - I was so disappoined for I deleted almost half of my pictures - they are blurry with this colors like hologram/psychedelic. Tripod is a must but it's just not convenient for me especially on crowded places and touristy. I'll follow the techniques that you posted. Thanks!

Oh, what I love about LCD (which I have no idea before) is that you can take pictures that's not so obvious - better than taking pictures when I have my SLR. I tried putting it on my waist level then screw up the LCD (as I read here)then voila! I'm starting to love my LCD, starting to love my G6! Btw, about my DSLR plans, I have to postpone that for now. Maybe when it's time for Canon to upgrade the XT

It's very addictive, isn't it? Glad to hear you're enjoying it!

Hi Dbump, thanks for your replies!

It's true on what they say that "you need to have a good eye" not a good camera to capture a descent picture. Tripod is a must for taking pictures at night. But I have this hard time taking a nice skyline and a subject at the foregound BOTH clear at night time. I can make the background clear but the subject at the foreground is blurry and viceversa. Imagine I'm at Brooklyn overlooking Manhattan buildings at night...

Can you post some examples? I'm sure folks here would be quick to offer suggestions.

Sophia:

To do this, you need to learn a bit more on how to setup the camera to shoot at the hyperfocal distance. This will allow you to have both the foreground and background in focus. There is quite a bit of information on this site regarding setting up the G-series camera to shoot at the hyperfocal distance. In most cases, the technique is applied as a way to reduce/eliminate shutter lag. However the concept is also applied by landscape photographers to do exactly what you are attempting - create an image with both the foreground and background in focus - an large DOF.

This thread has a few links regarding hyperfocal:

http://www.photography​-on-the.net …1075&highlight=​hyperfocal

I suggest reading the thread and some of the information in the links.

I use this technique often. This link is to a pano I did using this technique. The foreground was approximately 5 feet away, and the sun was ~93 million miles

http://www.pbase.com …r/image/4399308​8/originalhttp://www.pbase.com …r/image/4399308​8/original



http://homepage.hispee​d.ch/flowe/digifoto/hf​d_dof.htm

Sophia, ATucker (if you haven't looked at his gallery, be sure to. Not only does he take beautiful pix, he travels to beautiful places to take them.) is right. But let me expound on your problem. Remember in another thread we discussed the need to open the aperture to speed up the shutter at night? But there are tradeoffs? Depth of field is one of the tradeoffs. As you open the aperture, the depth of field becomes more shallow. The range of things that are in focus becomes tighter. To increase depth of field you need to close down the aperture.

Closing the aperture will also increase the length of time the shutter is open. This means a tripod. It also means the foreground and background objects must stay still or be blurred. One way to help depth of field is to not get too close to the foreground subjects.
Mike