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Thread started 05 Nov 2011 (Saturday) 19:55
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Question about flash to those who own the Sigma 30 1.4

 
Stir ­ Fry ­ A ­ Lot
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Nov 06, 2011 00:31 |  #16

Yes I did. Thanks for catching that.


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DStanic
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Nov 06, 2011 07:17 |  #17

My first flash (which I still have) is the old 550ex, then I bought a 430ex as a second one, but found it wasn't any better than the 550ex (the 550 is bigger/more powerful) so I got a used 580ex version 1. Very happy with it! One of the things about the 550/580 flashes is that you can connect an external battery pack, which is great for weddings when you need to punch out several shots in several seconds. 12 batteries is better than 4!

The Sigma 30 is a great lens, I owned it before I bought my 5D (then sold it to get the Sigma 50). It can capture alot in low light, and that may be fine for a portrait but for a group shot you gotta shoot at slower aperture. If it's either/or, I would suggest investing in a flash that will work better for you over a new lens.


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bobbyz
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Nov 06, 2011 10:30 |  #18

I have sigma 30mm f1.4 to use with my 1dmk2. I still like using flash (bounced) when using this lens indoors. I will use flash even when shooting at f1.4. I am not ambient light purist. I hate crappy ambient so will use flash to help the final shot. If I have nice window light then I will go ambient.


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deronsizemore
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Nov 20, 2011 15:34 |  #19

msowsun wrote in post #13359109 (external link)
What type of batteries are you using? Yes, the 430EX II is faster, but any flash will recycle faster when using NiMH batteries.

Purchased some NiMH batteries and it's a night and day difference as far as recycle time. It's especially fast when not set to full power; basically instant recycle. Thanks for the advice.


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BLUEONION
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Nov 20, 2011 20:40 |  #20

I still use bounce flash with mine indoors because I find myself having to use ISO 800 even at 1.4.


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deronsizemore
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Nov 20, 2011 20:51 |  #21

BLUEONION wrote in post #13428358 (external link)
I still use bounce flash with mine indoors because I find myself having to use ISO 1600 even at 1.4.

Thanks! Looks like I may hold off on the 30mm then since I'll still need to use flash in most cases indoors. My 17-50 will serve the purpose for a while until I decide for sure if I want the 30mm or maybe even the 50mm.


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jolyroger7
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Nov 20, 2011 21:32 |  #22

I had it for a while, and used it without a flash, as sometimes flash isn't appropriate. I sold it, because at the time I had very limited funds for photo gear, and it overlapped with my Sigma 24-70 2.8. I use a FF camera now, and again see the usefulness of a fast prime, so picked up the Sigma 50 1.4.

The decision really depends on how you shoot.


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pridash
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Nov 21, 2011 04:12 |  #23

bob_r wrote in post #13358950 (external link)
Would you mind posting an example of a group of people shot inside at f/1.4? I can keep one person in focus at f/1.4, but can't imagine keeping a group in focus with such a shallow DOF.
Even though I have a couple of f/1.4 lenses, I nearly always use a flash indoors.

deronsizemore wrote in post #13358952 (external link)
Well, since you asked, I'd like to see this too. I was going to ask, but didn't want to drift off topic.

I always struggle with this. In a large group, I never know where to focus as it always seems like one person is in focus and the rest is out of focus.

bob_r wrote in post #13358972 (external link)
I think this is the topic.

Remember distance to subject plays a big factor...and how the group is organised. Try and get a group in the same focal plane and increase your distance to subject. Shooting at 1.4 then becomes easier.

That being said, I wouldn't normally shoot any group shot at 1.4, unless I wanted the specific effect that comes with shooting wide open (especially on full frame). Heck, shooting at 2.8 on FF with more than one subject on a different focal plane results in one person being OOF so you have to be careful! :)

Shooting at a smaller aperture is usually the wiser option for groups...which is why the OP should put in the time to learn the ins and outs of on-camera flash techniques - especially bouncing and FEC. Once learnt, flash will become your assistant to create the right the type of light, rather than something that you reach for to produce more light.

Fast lenses are not a substitute for a dedicated flash or vice-versa. They are both excellent tools in their own right and quite often compliment each other.


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deronsizemore
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Nov 21, 2011 06:08 |  #24

pridash wrote in post #13429656 (external link)
Remember distance to subject plays a big factor...and how the group is organised. Try and get a group in the same focal plane and increase your distance to subject. Shooting at 1.4 then becomes easier.

That being said, I wouldn't normally shoot any group shot at 1.4, unless I wanted the specific effect that comes with shooting wide open (especially on full frame). Heck, shooting at 2.8 on FF with more than one subject on a different focal plane results in one person being OOF so you have to be careful! :)

Shooting at a smaller aperture is usually the wiser option for groups...which is why the OP should put in the time to learn the ins and outs of on-camera flash techniques - especially bouncing and FEC. Once learnt, flash will become your assistant to create the right the type of light, rather than something that you reach for to produce more light.

Fast lenses are not a substitute for a dedicated flash or vice-versa. They are both excellent tools in their own right and quite often compliment each other.

Thank you! Makes sense.


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litlefiter
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Nov 21, 2011 10:01 |  #25

Ever since i got the sigma, i stopped using zooms cos f2.8 seemed slow to me. However, some situations still call for a flash if you are going after a specific look in the image


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muskyhunter
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Nov 21, 2011 10:14 |  #26

if i am using a flash and need a group shot it put my sigma to f3.5-f5 to have all members of the group in focus.

at f1.4 i'm sure only one or two ppl are in focus.



  
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Question about flash to those who own the Sigma 30 1.4
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