Tamron 28-300 shoots weak

Why did this lens seem to shoot faded pics? I have to run some of them through Photoshop. Is it a cheap lens or do I just need to get more familiar with it? I'm think I should turn up the camera contrast while using this lens.

Right out of the camera :

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Doesn't look "faded" the original looks over exposed

The image EXIF says you shot the photo at 1/45 f/6.7 and ISO100. Assuming the sunny 16 rule is the correct exposure (1/100 f/16 and ISO100), then your shot is about two stops overexposed. My guess is that the auto-exposure mode was fooled because the main subject is back lit.

^^^^

Paul

Could you explain the sunny 16 rule?? I've never heard that before.

Christian.

On a bright sunny day, the rule of thumb is that if you shoot at F16, then the shutter speed is 1/ISO chosen.

Example:
Aperture F16
ISO 100
Shutter Speed 1/100

or
Aperture F16
ISO 200
Shutter Speed 1/200

or
Aperture F16
ISO 400
Shutter Speed 1/400


Of course you don't have to use F16 at all, but this rule just makes it easy to remember. I hardly ever use F16.

Equivalent exposure would be:
Aperture F11
ISO 100
Shutter Speed 1/200

Thanks for the ideas.

The main area of interest of this photo seems to be the shadowed (backlit) front of the building, whereas the rest of the scene is in bright sun. Your camera metering was in 'Average' mode, and it averaged the entire frame -- but by exposing the shadow area of the scene as a mid-tone area (which every reflected light meter is designed to do...render what it sees as mid-tone) it overexposed the sunlit areas very badly.

The difficulty is founded within the scene itself, not the camera nor the lens, nor even the metering mode! As a photographer, it is up to you to decide where the importance in the scene needs to be placed, so that the viewer's eyes are drawn to the correct section of the scene. Here is an example of making the background brightness the most important (leaving the shadowed building underexposed)

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Do you think center weighted metering would have improved this shot? I won't use Matrix metering on a shot like this again.

Chappy wrote in post #13433326
Do you think center weighted metering would have improved this shot? I won't use Matrix metering on a shot like this again.

Center weighted metering would have rendered the building to be about the
density of 18% gray, letting the background fall wherever it falls in brightness.

Partial metering would have rendered the building to be about the density of 18% gray, letting the background fall wherever it falls in brightness.

Spot metering would have rendered the building to be about the density of 18% gray, letting the background fall wherever it falls in brightness.


In all three cases, it is the photographer's judgement to use -EC in order to make the shadowed building darker than 18% tonality, making the background less overexposed.

Well - on a different tack, when I saw the image my first thought was that you were using a cheap filter that was killing the contrast, especially if sunlight is falling on the front element because no hood was used. Any of that apply?

xarqi wrote in post #13436796
Well - on a different tack, when I saw the image my first thought was that you were using a cheap filter that was killing the contrast, especially if sunlight is falling on the front element because no hood was used. Any of that apply?

As my two examples showed, change of exposure with NO CHANGE of contrast setting resulted in very acceptable results. Had flare been at fault, the contrast of the image would have needed to be doctered, not merely exposure.

I had a Hoya 62mm Skylight filter on it, and no hood at the time.

Which kind of cheap filter kills contrast?

Chappy wrote in post #13436993
I had a Hoya 62mm Skylight filter on it, and no hood at the time.

Which kind of cheap filter kills contrast?

A Hoya 62mm Skylight filter .... and no hood

Chappy wrote in post #13436993
I had a Hoya 62mm Skylight filter on it, and no hood at the time.
Which kind of cheap filter kills contrast?

Perfect_10 wrote in post #13437053
A Hoya 62mm Skylight filter .... and no hood

A Hoya Green Box or Blue Box 62mm Skylight filter and no hood kills contrast far, far worse than a Hoya HD or S-HMC 62mm Skylight filter and no hood!

Chappy wrote in post #13436993
I had a Hoya 62mm Skylight filter on it, and no hood at the time.

Which kind of cheap filter kills contrast?

Well, notwithstanding the exposure aspect, it may be worth trying a similar shot without the filter and with a hood. There could be multiple factors at work here.