HS Cross Country, feedback welcome

Looking for feedback on some HS XC shots. All C&C are welcome, especially WB and exposure comments. I work on an uncalibrated laptop monitor, and prints definitely do not match what I see on screen. All shot raw and DPP processed. Work flow is typically custom WB, adjust brightness and levels, sometimes run a tone curve assist, then crop. For WB, I try to pick a white sticker on a white bib.
60D w/200mm 2.8L, Tv @ 1/800 for 1-3

1)

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I think you positioned yourself well to get pleasing shots with a bit of variety and good backgrounds. X-C shots can be boring but these are nice.

All nice but my fav is #2 despite the fact that the foot is a bit cut off

you can certainly tell the use of a prime here, wonderful clarity and nice DOF balance

Really nice. Composition and background scenery are stellar. I live in a desert and tumble weeds don't make such a nice addition as your trees and running path do.

Nice shots!!!! I like the color on all the pictures and specially the DOF on #2.

My step daughter also started running XC for her H.S. and I volunteered to take pictures during races. I'm using a Sigma 17-70 f/2.8 and zoom isn't nearly enough. I'm on a budget so i'm looking to buy a Canon 70-200 f4L non-IS for $599 on BHphoto. My assumption is, since most shots are taken outdoors under bright sun light, I typically shoot 1/300 and faster which should reduce any hand held blur.
Anyone think this is a bad idea???


sorry for jacking this thread.

Thanks for the positive comments!

aNdrew, I think you are going to want a little faster shutter, maybe 1/500 at a minimum. I usually get too much runner hand blur at 1/320.

Bright sun light conditions are a bad assumption here in Michigan. Even on good weather days, it's starting to get dim during late season, late afternoon meets. You'll also want to consider how much shade is on the course. #1 (f/3.5) and #2 (f/2.8) were at ISO 1000 already, and I adjusted them +5/6 and +1 1/6 in DPP.

I'd actually prefer to shoot at 3.2 or 3.5 because it helps minimize focus errors*; but many times the available light dictates otherwise for me. I got my 200 2.8L used for ~$650, btw.

* 60D, AI servo, almost never using the center focusing point for composition reasons. I'm sacrificing keeper rate when at f/2.8 because of that though.

Toe slippage aside - I really like them.

There are no boring sports to shoot. There is always emotion, the struggle, the competition. There is always something. Like mentioned above, these are not boring shots... well done.

I would also think that XC wouldn't be as exciting as some others, but your shots are very nice. Love the DOF in #2, #3 is my next favorite.

Buckeye88 wrote in post #13477120
Thanks for the positive comments!

aNdrew, I think you are going to want a little faster shutter, maybe 1/500 at a minimum. I usually get too much runner hand blur at 1/320.

Bright sun light conditions are a bad assumption here in Michigan. Even on good weather days, it's starting to get dim during late season, late afternoon meets. You'll also want to consider how much shade is on the course. #1 (f/3.5) and #2 (f/2.8) were at ISO 1000 already, and I adjusted them +5/6 and +1 1/6 in DPP.

I'd actually prefer to shoot at 3.2 or 3.5 because it helps minimize focus errors*; but many times the available light dictates otherwise for me. I got my 200 2.8L used for ~$650, btw.

* 60D, AI servo, almost never using the center focusing point for composition reasons. I'm sacrificing keeper rate when at f/2.8 because of that though.

Your absolutely right! After reviewing most of the shots. They were mostly 1/500 and faster. Maybe, I should have said. I never found myself shooting slower than 1/320 . I think I was referring to the first meet. I know I shot most at 1/320 and I did get alot of hand blur and learned my lesson from there and started to shoot a faster shutter speed.

So at 1/500 and faster, is it safe to purchase the 70/200 f/4 with out IS? Will I still get sharp images at 200mm with out IS at 1/500 and faster? Have you ever shot races with he IS off?

I know it's not the best type of lighting to shoot under harsh sun light but I try to avoid shooting under tree shades. It bugs me when I capture a good shot with shade around a runners face and mixed in with a bright spot caused by the sun. I'll post an image when I find one.

Here is an example. Notice the uneven lighting on their faces. Is there a fix to this? I like the 1st image but the shade on his face just gets to me.

Also did you do any PP work on the pictures you posted? Your colors are so much better.

The pics I posted below were shot with my brothers Canon 55-250 IS lens and not my Sigma 17-70

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Buckeye88,

Very nice set. Great colors, very sharp, great composition.

nDrew wrote in post #13480301
Here is an example. Notice the uneven lighting on their faces. Is there a fix to this? I like the 1st image but the shade on his face just gets to me.

Also did you do any PP work on the pictures you posted? Your colors are so much better.

The pics I posted below were shot with my brothers Canon 55-250 IS lens and not my Sigma 17-70

I think your best bet would be to cross the course, on the other side of the tree, and shoot before the runners get into the shade. Maybe some flash to fill out some of the harshness of the light.

>So at 1/500 and faster, is it safe to purchase the 70/200 f/4 without IS?
Sunny 16 says you can get f/4, 1/800 at ISO100, with a stop to spare. Here's one at 1/800, f4.5, ISO100 on a sunny late morning earlier this season:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …buckeyemark88/6​268471638/

" You're better off moving elsewhere anyway. It's not called cross-concrete. "

Priceless.... too many people worry about which camera and lens, yada-yada-yada. Location is everything. Look at the background. Look at the lighting. Look at the dang side walk. Learning to compose a shot is far more important than buy the umber-camera or learning how to "fix" things in PP. Move around... look for the right angle. Get the light pool out of the back ground. Moving over a couple of feet would have made it go away.

Honestly these are find pictures for a yearbook or the like. But if you want to go to that next step, look through the lens before the people get there and see what else is in the picture. If it features a light pole, move a tad. Try it again. When you get to a place where the picture frame looks clean, then shoot the action as it comes through... and you won't have any distracting elements in your shot.

For what it is worth....