Som questions about the 70-200mm f2.8L MKI

I am just a hobbyist and this is my first L lens but I have as a hobby used SLRs since all manual days – yes I’m not as young as I once was (who is?).

I have a few questions about this lens.

This is also my first posting here – but have been reading for awhile. (Thanks for the information so far – always was able to find the answers I wanted.) But since it is my first post let me know if I did something wrong - Thanks!


Background - I just got the lens yesterday for $1175, which is I am pretty sure was a good deal even if it was not the MKII. I cannot and would not be able to afford the MKII for a long time – I was/am pushing funds for this. Box and all original materials came with the lens. Its condition is just about perfect - not even a mark on the hood. I don’t think the guy used it much at all. I might have used it more last night at a high school basketball game more than he did owning it (date code T = 2005?). I will shoot anything not just HS sports. (ie – family candid shots, nature, buildings, etc…)

First 2Qs - But I could have got an 70-200mm f4.0 IS for similar money (slightly less money) and many people on this forum say that the f4 is a better lens. But I typically end up shooting is some lower light, so I thought this would be a better choice. Weight didn’t matter to me as I am 6’ 2” at 230lbs and lift five days a week – but I am near 50 hence the desire for IS. So, did I do ok in my all of my figuring? (cost deal, 2.8 version for speed) Is the sharpness that much better on the f4.0 that I will want for it?

Third Q - I am trying to figure out panning on this when handheld. On my old slower AF Tamron 70-, 210 f2.8, I used a monopod and was ok - not great and would get some usable images. I could not get many usable images with this HH. When I get to wildlife if I don’t get better, the number of keepers will suffer. I had the ISO at 800 so I could get around 1/125 shutter speed, plus figured not being courtside that would be enough. Stationary shots were fine but not when I panned. Besides switching the button to 2 (no at the time it was on one – I did not read the manual before going to try out my new toy) is there something else I should do? Or am I just used to using a monopod and that I will have to get used to doing this handheld again?

Thanks in advance for any help!

From your description, I assume that you are have the EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM. If this is what you got for $1175, then you got a very good deal.

Date code T is 2005. I also have this lens. It is very sharp, although wide open it is slightly softer but still pretty good, and certainly by f/3.5-f/4 it is sharp enough for any purpose so I don't think you will wish for the f/4 version. Even at f/2.8 and f/3.2, the slight softness can be easily sharpened in post.

For panning, IS mode 2 is the best choice as it does IS only in the horizontal direction regardless of the orientation of the camera. A monopod will always help. For good pan shots, try to stop down a fair bit, f/11 or so works well. Choose the shutter speed based on how long you want the streaks. Depending on the subject 1/90-1/125 is a good starting point. With practice, you can get down to 1/60. The reason for stopping way down is that the subject distance is changing during the pan and increasing depth of field will help hide the slight misfocus. Also the more you stop down, the more dramatic the background streaks will be as they will be more sharp as they streak. Wide open the background is soft and panning won't look as interesting. Stopping down will show mostly only motion blur and not much blur due to depth of field limitations.

Sorry all for the spelling mistake in the title should be "Some questions" - oh well.

Macroimage, thanks for the response. I thought it was a good deal, but was not sure since it is now discontinued. Now all you hear about is the MKII and how good it is. On here, often many people often said that the f4 ISL is better - but often they sight weight (not a problem to me). They also sight sharpness, that is a problem to me (it is why I wanted L glass). Mine does seem sharp so far - but it is only slightly less than 2 days.

Thanks for the information on panning. I knew to stop down for the streaking affect (because of the slower shutter speed - so longer lines), but it never dawned on me about the increased DOF (so "hides" slight missed focus).

I was hoping to leave the monopod behind more frequently with IS. It sounds like your saying keep using it. So what you are saying is with IS and a monopod (and practice) I should be able to get to 1/60 ss. By the way I was ok with a monopod to 1/125 -1/250 (still needed practice for more keepers) so in panning IS good for a only a one stop improvement? So more practice it is.

I, short of cropping and color/brightness changes, don't post process. I also guess from your reply that I should learn to post process. Unless they have a site license where I teach, any suggestions on a program other than photoshop -I can't afford PS (even less after the lens purchase). The very little processing I've done is in IrfanView.

Thanks again for the response Macroimage.

most of the time the f/4 version is sharper but not by a very large margin. Unless you seriously pixel peep the 2.8 still has the edge in speed versus the f/4.

It's not discontinued. I just saw it on Canon's website for $1999.

I have the same lens for about the same price, but mine's pretty beat up. Nice deal you got!

The goal with pan shots usually is to get very straight streaks with a sharp subject so it does take quite a bit of practice. IS mode 2 helps but doesn't work miracles so the monopod will always help but isn't necessary. Start the pan well before the shutter closes and continue panning after the shutter closes and practice keeping the subject still in the viewfinder as you follow.

Bicycle races are great practice for this and very colourful. You can add a second curtain sync flash as well for effect sometimes too. Even the on-camera pop-up flash can work well for this. This will freeze a sharp shot of the cyclist at the end of the shutter opening but leave the trailing motion blur of the legs, feet and pedals and combined with the streaked background can be quite cool.

What pop-up flash has 2CS?

EDIT: Oops, found it! Didn't know it was there, thanks!

I guess I'll keep carrying the monopod. At least I feel safe with it. Homemade from a leg from an old heavy (probably sturdy as I bought it broken at a yard sale) tripod, I feel it is strong enough to beat off a would be thief - if needed.

I am looking for a new monopod as I don't like the twist adjust and rather have flip adjust. But it works great (plus I think it could support a tank) so it is kind of hard to justify buying another.

The added effect of second curtain sync to the streak effect does sound cool. I never used second curtain sync, how dark does it have to be to get a good effect? I would think it would need to be darker, where do they have bicycle races at night?

It doesn't have to be very dark. Late afternoon is fine or wherever they are in shade is enough.