A few recent favorites from stacking practice

There is free software, called Bracketter that will focus your lens at whatever increments you put in, but it needs a Canon and AF lens. I used it before I got this new computer, with Windows 7 64 bit, and it worked beautifully with a T1i and Sigma 105. Haven't tried it on 64 bit but it is supposed to work OK.

archer1960 wrote in post #13579326
Your stacking method is rather more precise than mine. My most common method when the magnification is ~1:1 or less, is to move back and forth with the camera until the focus plane is just in front of the subject, then hold down the shutter on continuous shooting, and slowly move forward until the focus is off the back of the subject. If I'm lucky, the camera buffer fills up just as I get to the back of the subject. That's much quicker than trying individually focus each slice.

At higher mags, I use a rail, and move the camera forward a bit between each shot, rather than adjusting the lens focus.

That's interesting. I think your 1:1 method is a good way to go in the field. I shall try it next time I'm out and don't have a flash handy. In the case of all these shots, I had the luxury of using a tripod, so that helped a great deal.

I have considered getting a rail someday, but I currently do so little at greater than 1:1 that it's not worth it. I may get an MP-E 65 someday, and if I do, I'll surely get a rail to go with it.

canonloader wrote in post #13579397
There is free software, called Bracketter that will focus your lens at whatever increments you put in, but it needs a Canon and AF lens. I used it before I got this new computer, with Windows 7 64 bit, and it worked beautifully with a T1i and Sigma 105. Haven't tried it on 64 bit but it is supposed to work OK.

Interesting. I can imagine that would be helpful when using a 1:1 lens with dipoters and/or tubes attached, because autofocus is still possible in that setup, but moving the focus ring by hand would likely lead to slices that are not quite the right size. I have a Raynox 250 that I'm still playing around with; perhaps next time I break that out, I will test this software.

Yeah, it won't work with the MPE-65. Tests have been done though, capturing slices with lens focus or rail, and there seems to be no difference in the final outcome. Move the camera on a rail, move the focus ring, or even, put the subject on the rail and move it closer or far. It's all the same in the end.

gatorlink wrote in post #13579517
That's interesting. I think your 1:1 method is a good way to go in the field. I shall try it next time I'm out and don't have a flash handy. In the case of all these shots, I had the luxury of using a tripod, so that helped a great deal.

I have considered getting a rail someday, but I currently do so little at greater than 1:1 that it's not worth it. I may get an MP-E 65 someday, and if I do, I'll surely get a rail to go with it.

If I keep the flash on low power (1/16), it will flash for every shot until the camera has to pause to empty its buffer, giving the flash a chance to catch up as well. I imagine a faster-shooting body or one with a larger buffer may leave the flash behind after a few shots, though.

Adorama has some decent cheap ($60 or so last time I looked) macro rails that work nicely if you don't need super-high precision or stiffness.

archer1960 wrote in post #13579879
If I keep the flash on low power (1/16), it will flash for every shot until the camera has to pause to empty its buffer, giving the flash a chance to catch up as well. I imagine a faster-shooting body or one with a larger buffer may leave the flash behind after a few shots, though.

Adorama has some decent cheap ($60 or so last time I looked) macro rails that work nicely if you don't need super-high precision or stiffness.

Hmm, good to know. I have not had success getting a flash in multiple successive shots when holding down the shutter button (T2i, 580ex II flash, Eneloop batteries), but I usually have the ISO cranked down to 100, the shutter speed at 1/200, and the aperture at f/11. I'll take a shot at adjusting my settings a bit to allow more light/film-speed and see if I can get more flashes in a row with lower power and still get adequately sharp shots at 1:1. I shoot raw, so I generally can only get maybe 4-5 shots before the buffer is full.

i think you have done very well on these, yes the spider shot does show up the oof slices, flatish areas always show up any missed bits lol

zerene is much better and sharpens less!

phil

Very nice shots and stacks!

excellent stacking...first ones look great...

Thanks again for the comments, folks.

cool