Shooting birds with a tripod

I recently bought a 300mm f4 IS and canon 1.4x extender for birding but am having problems getting sharp images when using a tripod (manfrotto 190xprob and 498RC2). This is easily the longest lens I've ever used and I know it'll take some practice so I'm loathe to blame any problems on my gear when it's more than likely my technique thats at fault.

I've tested the lens in optimum conditions (tripod, mlu, cable release etc) and it's fine... more than fine it's great! It's not focusing or the bird moving that's the problem as everything is a tad shakey. I'm used to using my tripod for landscapes with a wide angle lens and cable release or timer not firing the shutter manually on the camera so is this likely to be my technique in which case I'd love some tips or do I need to upgrade to 055 legs with a fancy gimbal head?

Thank in advance from a noob birder

Using a long lens takes practice, even with a tripod you can get shake, also if the lens is bolted down on an ultra rigid setup, it may be the IS is trying to cancel a slight wobble that isn't even there. Try perhaps using it without, though I have to say I've not had a problem using the iS on my Sigma when tripod mounted, so it stays on all the time. Another thought, are you giving the IS time to spin up before the shutter actuates, just a second or two.

Thanks for the reply Ken, I've got IS off while on the tripod but maybe with my wobbly technique it wouldn't hurt to try some shots with it on.

I know it will take time to perfect, I suppose I'm looking for some reassurance that there's nothing wrong with my set up I think I'm going to switch to the Manfrotto 055XPROB because I'm using the tripod at full height more often now and the 190 is a bit too short for me

im not an expert or anything but I think that your shutter speed is too low.

the 300f4 is a great lens and it uses the 1.4 TC superbly.

try to get your SS up around 1/800s or higher and see how that works.
I see alot of nice images shot at 1/1000 and f7.1 the ISO should be as low as possible but not requiring your SS to drop below 1/800.

try that. it has worked wonders for my pictures in nice light.
in low light, that method wont work as well. you will need to go down to f5.6 to keep the shutter speed as high as possible and keep your ISO under control.

Wow.

First there's quite a bit that could be going on so more info on what exactly you are doing could help us help you. What kinds of birds are you shooting, how far away are they, what are the aperture and shutter speeds that you are using, what's the ISO, are you using the tripod with the center column extended or is it down where it should be, etc.

I suspect, having read your reply to Ken, that you are elevating the center column. While this is fine for lenses from wide angle to short telephotos, it's not a stable option for 300mm+. Leave that sucker down where the legs connect.

Cable releases are fine for wider angles with long exposures, but there is a better way for telephoto lenses. For optimal results try long lens technique: with your left hand on the end of the barrel (on or near the lens hood) apply gentle but firm pressure downwards on the lens. Press your forehead against the camera as you look through the viewfinder and balance the pressure from your left hand with your right hand at the shutter release. Always squeeze the shutter, don't get excited.

1/800th and faster is fine for hand held birds in flight but you can get away with much slower speeds as long as you are using a tripod and proper technique. Something in the 1/100th to 1/500th range should be just fine.

Let us know more about how you are going about your efforts.

The 300mm f4 is an older design and should have the IS turned off on a tripod. When I shoot flying birds I try to have 1/1200 of a second or faster for a shutter speed. If you are using servo you will probably have to pump the shutter to keep focus on the bird. These are things that come to mind. You really have to supply us with more information to help solve your problem

binliner wrote in post #13603346
Thanks for the reply Ken, I've got IS off while on the tripod but maybe with my wobbly technique it wouldn't hurt to try some shots with it on.

I know it will take time to perfect, I suppose I'm looking for some reassurance that there's nothing wrong with my set up I think I'm going to switch to the Manfrotto 055XPROB because I'm using the tripod at full height more often now and the 190 is a bit too short for me

I just bought the tripod listed in my gear. I'm 6' 2" and use this 'pod w/ center post nested-my ball head is about 4". The height was a major reason for selecting this model.
FYI.

Thanks for all the advice, Kevin the long lens technique worked perfectly and my keeper rate has improved no end.

jhayesvw, good advice but you've clearly never been to England in winter... 1/1000 @ f7.1 with an ISOb
below 800 ain't going to happen! and if it did I wouldnt need the tripod

lol.
Nope, never been there. I like in Arizona. One of the sunniest places on the planet.

Glad it helped Justin, it's a great way to dampen vibration.

Nice work by the way, looks like you know your way around with more ambient lenses.

Back when I had the 300 f/2.8 IS I shot birds a lot with the 2x TC. There were occasions when I was able to use a tripod, sometimes I had to use a monopod, occasionally I had to grin and bear it and shoot hand-held!

But something I want to note: when shooting with a tripod, at 600mm just a bit of shake really can show up through the viewfinder. What I found was that turning on the IS could really help a shot! This was with birds, working quickly with hands-on shooting (camera shake) so no time to do your common "techniques" except quickly try the above type of "stabilize" approach but then you have to get the shot, so rather than wait for the gear to "settle down" from the handling, IS would be quite helpful. Of course for shooting other subjects, I could turn the IS off and practice techniques like the one above and wait for the little vibrations to settle down. Of course, things like a cable release and mirror lockup can play a big role as well.

Now I shoot with the 100-400 and a 1.4x TC using a monopod for birding, and the IS stays on...

As to the model of tripod, go sturdy with the legs and yeah, get one that you don't have to raise the center column. I have a Manfrotto 3221WN, an "older" generation and I don't know how it compares to what you are using or the 055XPROB, but I got mine especially for sturdiness and it has worked well. My ballhead is also an older generation, the 488RC4, but I got it as one that was spec'd for more weight than I was going to load it with, short of say a 600mm/800mm lens. I had experienced overloaded ballheads and it's no fun to have the gear slump on you when you're trying to get a shot!