5D classic, 430 ex ii off camera flash help

Is it possible with this setup? I was looking at the cheapest possible, but still reliable way to achieve this. I hear it's much better having the flash off camera.

I would like to get a small setup to do indoor shots of our new baby coming at the end of february. It would be cool to setup something in the hospital room, to get some shots after delivery.

I have heard good things about cheetabox, but don't know much about it.

Thanks for any help

Lots of ways to do it. First you need to decide whether you want/need to retain ettl. If you are willing to go manual (is not hard at all). Then all you need is an inexpensive set of wireless triggers like the YN 603 from amazon. You just put your flash on one, the other in your shoe and you have wireless flash. If you feel like you want to retain ETTL then the options get a bit more crazy. The first option would be a long ETTL capable cord like the one sold by flashzebra.com. That wold give you 25ft of range for under $50. Option 2 would be another canon flash capable of serving as master (any of the 500 series EX flashes) or an ST-E2. After that its gets pretty pricey for ETTL capable radio triggers.

A lot to cover
The cheapest way to get your flash off camera AND keep ETTL communication is a cable extension.
Flash Zebra can get you one for about 40$ i think
Then there is Radio triggers , but these do not transmit ETTL turning your 430 into a Manual Flash only.
You can get Yongnuo RF602 or 603 for about 30 to 50$ on ebay (we are talkingcheap and not Pocket Wizards woth ETTL)
The cheetah soft box is good, but Id recommend to get a stand and a Umbrella first and learn to use it

Hope this helps

Gonzogolf beat me to it

+1 for what gonzogolf says. Going manual isn't that difficult, and with a new born you don't need to worry about the subject moving around too much!

In the hospital room after delivery though you may want to minimise the things you need to think about, in which case ettl would help. Although the ST-E2 is more expensive than a cord, it avoids having something people can trip over. Hope that adds something to the discussion.

adamg5 wrote in post #13698534
I hear it's much better having the flash off camera.

It's only better if you have a basic understanding of light and how it works. It can produce ugly results otherwise.

But you can get the apparent light source off the camera while leaving the flash unit on the hotshoe. The flash unit is designed to tilt and swivel so you can bounce the light off nearby surfaces. Hospital rooms are full of nearby surfaces (walls and a ceiling).

Hospital rooms also have large windows, and window light can be awesome. Rather than annoying mother and child (not to mention doctors and nurses) with equipment in the way and flashes popping all the time, try to make the best of the light God gives you. You've got a 5D and some fast glass, fer cryin' out loud. Take advantage of that awesome low light equipment.

Off-camera flash can give you a world of creative possibilities, but there's a right time and place to practice your skills.

You've got a 5D and some fast glass, fer cryin' out loud. Take advantage of that awesome low light equipment.

Off-camera flash can give you a world of creative possibilities, but there's a right time and place to practice your skills.[/QUOTE]

Yeah your right, I need to use natural light and my fast glass to my advantage. I was just thinking of also using my flash to fill in a little when needed but not be so strong that it ruins the photo. I like the bounce off wall/ceiling technique.
I also have sto fen omni diffuser that I can put on top of flash that I haven't really learned to use right.
any recommendations on a good way to get the flash to give a nice soft lighting? I guess I can turn it down in manual.

thanks guys/girls

gonzogolf wrote in post #13698560
Lots of ways to do it. First you need to decide whether you want/need to retain ettl. If you are willing to go manual (is not hard at all). Then all you need is an inexpensive set of wireless triggers like the YN 603 from amazon. You just put your flash on one, the other in your shoe and you have wireless flash. If you feel like you want to retain ETTL then the options get a bit more crazy. The first option would be a long ETTL capable cord like the one sold by flashzebra.com. That wold give you 25ft of range for under $50. Option 2 would be another canon flash capable of serving as master (any of the 500 series EX flashes) or an ST-E2. After that its gets pretty pricey for ETTL capable radio triggers.

Good stuff thank you, I plan on picking up the wireless triggers soon.

adamg5 wrote in post #13698821
Good stuff thank you, I plan on picking up the wireless triggers soon.

When you are trigger shopping look at the kit that includes an extra receiver. you'll probably want an extra sooner than later and its easier to purchase one now than trying to find a single after the fact, plus paying extra shipping etc.

In the meantime how about something like this? anyone have good or bad experience or should I just k.i.s.s and bounce off the walls/ceiling?
thanks,
Adam

http://www.amazon.com …TF8&qid=1326487​509&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com …ef=acc_glance_e​_ai_ps_t_2

adamg5 wrote in post #13699390
In the meantime how about something like this? anyone have good or bad experience or should I just k.i.s.s and bounce off the walls/ceiling?
thanks,
Adam

http://www.amazon.com …TF8&qid=1326487​509&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com …ef=acc_glance_e​_ai_ps_t_2

The softbox is all but a waste of money. Not big enough to make a difference. I have the rogue flashbender and it is pretty good, get the large one or dont bother. Keep in mind the purpose of those is to bounce most of the light off of the ceiling, and use the card to kick a bit of it forward for directional light to combat racoon eye shadows. These tools are great for event work, where you are moving around, but different than OCF.

gonzogolf wrote in post #13699415
The softbox is all but a waste of money. Not big enough to make a difference. I have the rogue flashbender and it is pretty good, get the large one or dont bother. Keep in mind the purpose of those is to bounce most of the light off of the ceiling, and use the card to kick a bit of it forward for directional light to combat racoon eye shadows. These tools are great for event work, where you are moving around, but different than OCF.

so you would recommend a umbrella for OCF? http://www.amazon.com …TF8&qid=1326488​642&sr=1-1
Or I can mount my 430 ex to my tripod with some diy rigging.
also the cowboy studio triggers are a little cheaper will they work just as good? http://www.amazon.com …TF8&qid=1326488​686&sr=1-8
thanks for you help

Is this the rogue large one you are talking about? http://www.amazon.com …IMAS/ref=pd_bxg​y_p_text_c

adamg5 wrote in post #13699476
so you would recommend a umbrella for OCF? I can mount my 430 ex to my tripod with some diy rigging.
also the cowboy studio triggers are a little cheaper will they work just as good?
thanks for you help

I'm no fan of the cowboy products. Dont like the company at all. The advantage of getting the YN or perhaps the cactus brand triggers is there are enough products in the pipe you can always add on later if need be. I wouldnt bother doing ocf without at least an umbrella or a larger softbox. Moving the light away from the camera is only have the battle, the second is to control the shadow edge hardness.

adamg5 wrote in post #13698817
I also have sto fen omni diffuser that I can put on top of flash that I haven't really learned to use right.
any recommendations on a good way to get the flash to give a nice soft lighting? I guess I can turn it down in manual.

The way to make light soft is to make the light source bigger. That's why I recommended bouncing off walls and/or ceiling. The big bright spot you create on the bouncing surface becomes the apparent light source.

Tupperware type attachments like the sto-fen basically scatter the light everywhere. They can make soft light when used properly, but they don't give you much control over the light. I don't use one and never wished I had one.

Curtis N wrote in post #13698706
It's only better if you have a basic understanding of light and how it works. It can produce ugly results otherwise.

But you can get the apparent light source off the camera while leaving the flash unit on the hotshoe. The flash unit is designed to tilt and swivel so you can bounce the light off nearby surfaces. Hospital rooms are full of nearby surfaces (walls and a ceiling).

Hospital rooms also have large windows, and window light can be awesome. Rather than annoying mother and child (not to mention doctors and nurses) with equipment in the way and flashes popping all the time, try to make the best of the light God gives you. You've got a 5D and some fast glass, fer cryin' out loud. Take advantage of that awesome low light equipment.

Off-camera flash can give you a world of creative possibilities, but there's a right time and place to practice your skills.

Quoted and bolded for emphasis. Spot on.