Thanks to all for the replies. Just a tip that I wish I'd have gotten before I went---it really is an evening location for photography. All the major landmarks face to the west and with all the air pollution from nearby LA you get some really good light. I was there morning, evening, morning and should have spent one morning and two evenings. Edwards Air Force Base is right next door, so contrails are a constant problem. Being from Phoenix, the "Colorado" (Sonoran) Desert section of the park, which is by far the largest area-wise, held no particular interest---it looks like my front yard! But the Mojave section is excellent and most of the attractions are there and in the transition zone. Its a very easy place in which to get lost, so take your GPS and fresh batteries.
6D, G9, Sigma 50 1.4, Sigma 15mm Fisheye, Sigma 50 2.8 macro, Nikon 14-24G 2.8, Canon 16-35 2.8 II, Canon 24-105 f/4 IS, Canon 70-200 2.8 IS, tripod, lights, other stuff.