Bolidas Member 115 posts Likes: 11 Joined Jan 2007 Location: chicago,il More info | Nov 10, 2013 10:03 | #586 |
rsieminski Senior Member 733 posts Likes: 5 Joined Jul 2008 Location: Sunny Florida More info | Nov 10, 2013 12:19 | #587 Nope, flash to ambient exposure stays exactly the same, just with a shallower DOF. --Rick
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rsieminski Senior Member 733 posts Likes: 5 Joined Jul 2008 Location: Sunny Florida More info | Nov 10, 2013 12:25 | #588 That's still arbitrary. For me I take a meter reading, and the appropriate ND filter, adjust camera for proper exposure, shoot,shoot, shoot. I need exposure to be exact. I don't have time for half a dozen test shots, to dial in exposure. In these situations (bright Sun), the back of the camera will be all but impossible to see. I do use a Hoodman Loupe, but I'd rather not trust the LCD for accurate exposure. --Rick
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fashionrider Goldmember 1,093 posts Likes: 22 Joined Dec 2011 More info | Nov 10, 2013 12:26 | #589 idsurfer wrote in post #16438466 so it begins...the quest for more power! be careful... this is a very slippery path you're heading down. You sound JUST LIKE ME when I first started using my VariND. If you're just like me, you'll purchase an alien bee b1600 with a light modifier like a softbox/beauty dish. Then you'll start saying, "hmmm, I wish I could have a second light to fill in the shadows a tad". Boom, 2nd alien bee purchased. Then later, "hmmm, I wish I could have a tad more of a rim light"... argh, 3rd light purchased. Gear List (5D3, 70-200 f2.8L IS II, Sigma 85mm f1.4, Sigma 35mm f1.4, 50 f1.8, 24-105L, Alien Bee lights, etc etc)
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fashionrider Goldmember 1,093 posts Likes: 22 Joined Dec 2011 More info | Nov 10, 2013 12:33 | #590 rsieminski wrote in post #16439784 That's still arbitrary. For me I take a meter reading, and the appropriate ND filter, adjust camera for proper exposure, shoot,shoot, shoot. I need exposure to be exact. I don't have time for half a dozen test shots, to dial in exposure. In these situations (bright Sun), the back of the camera will be all but impossible to see. I do use a Hoodman Loupe, but I'd rather not trust the LCD for accurate exposure. Anyone else care to share their workflow? In idsurfer's previous post, he also mentioned my method. I use a lightmeter to make sure everything is exact. There's no need for repeated test shots and light adjustments. Gear List (5D3, 70-200 f2.8L IS II, Sigma 85mm f1.4, Sigma 35mm f1.4, 50 f1.8, 24-105L, Alien Bee lights, etc etc)
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idsurfer Cream of the Crop More info | rsieminski wrote in post #16439784 That's still arbitrary. For me I take a meter reading, and the appropriate ND filter, adjust camera for proper exposure, shoot,shoot, shoot. I need exposure to be exact. I don't have time for half a dozen test shots, to dial in exposure. In these situations (bright Sun), the back of the camera will be all but impossible to see. I do use a Hoodman Loupe, but I'd rather not trust the LCD for accurate exposure. Anyone else care to share their workflow? Well, I'm not too scientific and I have all the time in the world. Yes it's a bit willy nilly, but the reality is that I can usually get the exposure dialed in (to my satisfaction...and for now that's all that matters) in just a shot or two. I've become pretty quick over time by using all manual flashguns. This is a hobby and I pretty much only take shots of my kids. They don't stay in one spot. So no matter what exposure I have set after usingany method, things are likely to change from shot to shot. This is where the vari ND is coming in handy. If the situation was more controlled, i.e. paying customers that actually cooperated by standing still for more than 2 seconds to have their photo taken, I might actually by a light meter and try to be more precise. In the interim, my method is certainly honing my skills for shooting the fly. HOwever, I can see how using a vari might be a bit loose/imprecise for your workflow. fashionrider wrote in post #16439788 be careful... this is a very slippery path you're heading down. You sound JUST LIKE ME when I first started using my VariND. If you're just like me, you'll purchase an alien bee b1600 with a light modifier like a softbox/beauty dish. Then you'll start saying, "hmmm, I wish I could have a second light to fill in the shadows a tad". Boom, 2nd alien bee purchased. Then later, "hmmm, I wish I could have a tad more of a rim light"... argh, 3rd light purchased. ![]() Ha! That is why I said "I'm not going there"! As mentioned above, just a little hobby to get nice shots of my kids. If I was relying on photography to put food on the table, would go there. I would also have a different lens set up that was a bit more versatile! Cory
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fashionrider Goldmember 1,093 posts Likes: 22 Joined Dec 2011 More info | Nov 10, 2013 14:45 | #592 idsurfer wrote in post #16440035 Ha! That is why I said "I'm not going there"! As mentioned above, just a little hobby to get nice shots of my kids. If I was relying on photography to put food on the table, would go there. I would also have a different lens set up that was a bit more versatile! ![]() I don't get paid anything for photography. it's strictly for fun and satisfaction of knowing I created some nice photos for someone. :P Gear List (5D3, 70-200 f2.8L IS II, Sigma 85mm f1.4, Sigma 35mm f1.4, 50 f1.8, 24-105L, Alien Bee lights, etc etc)
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rsieminski Senior Member 733 posts Likes: 5 Joined Jul 2008 Location: Sunny Florida More info | Nov 10, 2013 20:07 | #594 fashionrider wrote in post #16439802 In idsurfer's previous post, he also mentioned my method. I use a lightmeter to make sure everything is exact. There's no need for repeated test shots and light adjustments. I'd like to know how to dial in precisely 4 stops when I need it, or 6 stops when I need it, or however many stops of density that is needed to shoot wide open in any circumstance. The light meter will not have anything to do with the vari-nd. I use the L-758 for accuracy and speed. --Rick
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bobbyz Cream of the Crop 20,506 posts Likes: 3479 Joined Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, CA More info | Nov 10, 2013 21:09 | #595 Rick - Fixed NDs keep it simple. Or take measurements and mark various settings on the vari ND. Fuji XT-1, 18-55mm
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Nov 10, 2013 23:26 | #596 5D2, Sigma 50mm @ f/1.4, 1/125, ISO 100
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rsieminski Senior Member 733 posts Likes: 5 Joined Jul 2008 Location: Sunny Florida More info | Nov 11, 2013 07:17 | #597 bobbyz wrote in post #16441018 Rick - Fixed NDs keep it simple. Or take measurements and mark various settings on the vari ND. Yep, that's been my thought. That's why I have the 3, 4, 5, 6, 10 stop(s) for my 77mm filter thread lenses. --Rick
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fashionrider Goldmember 1,093 posts Likes: 22 Joined Dec 2011 More info | Nov 11, 2013 15:29 | #598 rsieminski wrote in post #16440857 I'd like to know how to dial in precisely 4 stops when I need it, or 6 stops when I need it, or however many stops of density that is needed to shoot wide open in any circumstance. The light meter will not have anything to do with the vari-nd. I use the L-758 for accuracy and speed. So then how do you know how much ND you have dialed in, to know how much to lower your aperture to? You need to know how much density you dialed in, so you know how far to open up. I'm not one to guess a setting, take a shot, dial in a little more, take a shot, dial in a little more, take a shot dial it back a bit, etc, etc..... I can't see anyone who's on a time schedule, doing this method with any sort of consistency. anyone? That's one of the problems, I've been considering making marks on my VND. Since there are no hard stops written on the VariND, I rely on the camera. I go into aperture priority mode at the aperture I want, then I look at the shutter speed and I calculate the amount of stops I need to drop it down to 1/200. It's worked well for me so far. But i'll need to stop being lazy and actually write down the marks for each stop :P Gear List (5D3, 70-200 f2.8L IS II, Sigma 85mm f1.4, Sigma 35mm f1.4, 50 f1.8, 24-105L, Alien Bee lights, etc etc)
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bobbyz Cream of the Crop 20,506 posts Likes: 3479 Joined Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, CA More info | Nov 12, 2013 08:17 | #599 I saw B+W vari ND has stop marks. Not sure how accurate though. I would definitely do some tests and mark those stops, otherwise too much time fiddling IMHO. Fuji XT-1, 18-55mm
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rsieminski Senior Member 733 posts Likes: 5 Joined Jul 2008 Location: Sunny Florida More info | Nov 12, 2013 10:35 | #600 bobbyz wrote in post #16444975 .... otherwise too much time fiddling IMHO. Yep, what would seem on the surface as a convenience, would become a nuisance, and could come across as unprofessional. Models are impatient enough, without me having to screw with getting proper exposure. --Rick
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