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Thread started 05 Mar 2012 (Monday) 08:10
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Upgraded and thrown back.

 
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Mar 05, 2012 08:10 |  #1

I recently upgraded my 400D (Rebel XTi) to a 50D and got the feeling that I was thrown back two years in time.
I have the feeling that I make the same pictures as two years ago and that I have to learn how to properly focus.
Obviously it is not the camera who is 'malfunctioning' so it must be me not getting the grips of the 50D.
Sometimes I get the focus correct, but sometimes the focus is off.
Both pictures are made with my 70-200 F4 at 200mm and slightly cropped and straightened.

The first picture (external link) is an example of an out of focus shot.
M-mode, ISO 400, F4, 1/800, AI Servo, AWB, bottom focus point active
The second picture (external link) is better in focus.
M-mode, ISO 800, F4, 1/800, AI Servo, AWB, bottom focus point active

How can I improve so I have much sharper results more of the time ?
Be as positive or negative as you like, I can take all critics.


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Mar 05, 2012 12:27 |  #2

I suggest using the center focus point. It tends to be more accurate.


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Mar 05, 2012 16:21 |  #3

As far a I knew all focus points are crosstype, but another look at DPreview shows that the center point is additionally sensitive with lenses of F2.8 or faster
The next time I'll shoot with the center point focus and see if my in-focus rate goes up.
Thanks for the tip.


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Mar 05, 2012 16:27 |  #4

Canon Amateur wrote in post #14029994 (external link)
As far a I knew all focus points are crosstype, but another look at DPreview shows that the center point is additionally sensitive with lenses of F2.8 or faster
The next time I'll shoot with the center point focus and see if my in-focus rate goes up.
Thanks for the tip.

Having the same issue. Thx for the tip. Now just to clarify...if you want the WHOLE shot in focus better to use the center focus point as opposed to a higher aperture? Say some of the subjects arent even across the shot.


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Mar 05, 2012 19:05 |  #5

RACINGHART03 wrote in post #14030039 (external link)
Now just to clarify...if you want the WHOLE shot in focus better to use the center focus point as opposed to a higher aperture?

No, you'll need a higher aperture number to gain DOF. The problem with doing that on action shots, is that you may not have enough shutter speed to stop the action. The AF point selected will not solve DOF issues.


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Mar 06, 2012 01:05 |  #6

try trap focusing and wait to the action gets closer


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Mar 06, 2012 03:40 |  #7

bob_r wrote in post #14031166 (external link)
No, you'll need a higher aperture number to gain DOF. The problem with doing that on action shots, is that you may not have enough shutter speed to stop the action. The AF point selected will not solve DOF issues.

I kept my aperture on F4 so I could keep the shutterspeed on 1/800 or 1/600, but that was on my 400D (XTi).
The 50D has better ISO performance, so I can try to go to F6 1/800 and adjust the ISO accordingly.
I will certainly try higher aperture numbers, together with the center AF point, in the oncoming matches.

Trap focus is the solution to get more (if not all) in-focus pictures, but I guess that I am going to miss the action shots.
I should have asked for 'much sharper action shots more of the time' probably ;)

Thanks for all the tips.


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Mar 06, 2012 20:25 |  #8

Move your focus to the * button on the back. That separates it from metering and eased the tracking of the moving object for me.


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Mar 06, 2012 21:09 |  #9

Titus213 wrote in post #14039014 (external link)
Move your focus to the * button on the back. That separates it from metering and eased the tracking of the moving object for me.

I've only been photographing since October but I'm trying to learn what you meant here because I have no clue.:confused:


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Mar 06, 2012 21:38 |  #10

YOu should be able to move the focus operation to the * button on the back of the camera via a menu option. It allows you to focus with your thumb. The shutter button causes the metering of the scene. So you can easily track a subject and hit the shutter any time. There is no holding the shutter half way to focus and meter. Takes some getting use to but works real well for me.

Sorry, not sure the T3 can do that, but the OP's 50D should.


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Mar 06, 2012 21:44 |  #11

Titus213 wrote in post #14039014 (external link)
Move your focus to the * button on the back. That separates it from metering and eased the tracking of the moving object for me.

HotnessRod wrote in post #14039330 (external link)
I've only been photographing since October but I'm trying to learn what you meant here because I have no clue.:confused:

Titus213 wrote in post #14039531 (external link)
YOu should be able to move the focus operation to the * button on the back of the camera via a menu option. It allows you to focus with your thumb. The shutter button causes the metering of the scene. So you can easily track a subject and hit the shutter any time. There is no holding the shutter half way to focus and meter. Takes some getting use to but works real well for me.

Sorry, not sure the T3 can do that, but the OP's 50D should.

He's reffering to back button autofocus. Here is a article from the Canon Digital Learning Center explaining what it is and how to do it. I think they even use a 50D for the example. :
http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …ckbutton_af_art​icle.shtml (external link)


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Mar 07, 2012 04:56 |  #12

Titus213 wrote in post #14039531 (external link)
, but the OP's 50D should.

The 50D has an AF-ON button for that. It is perfectly placed so my thumb can rest against it. I tried it for a short while but could not get the hang of it. You suggest I have to give it more time to get used to, so I will do that.
In the menu I found C.Fn III and C.Fn IV 1 and 2 (external link) which offers me lots of settings to play with.
I guess that I have to shoot a lot to find, and learn to understand, the different settings that suits me most.

You guys are very helpfull.
Thank you very much.


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