Spider, with a 70-200mm and extension tube...
Black & yellow garden spider in its web
EF 70-200mm f2.8 IS lens with 25mm macro extension tube. EOS-3 camera, Ektachrome film. Settings unrecorded. Tripod, 550EX fill flash and ambient light. But if you want to get closer, you might want a true macro lens such as the Canon EF100/2.8 USM...
"I'm ready for my close-up, Mr DeMille."
EF 100/2.8 Macro lens at f11. EOS 30D camera at ISO 200, 1/200 shutter speed. 550EX flash. Handheld. Or a Tamron 90mm...
Bee on orange poppy
Tamron SP 90mm f2.5 Macro at f11, vintage lens adapted for use on EOS 7D at ISO 400, 1/400 shutter speed. Ambient light, handheld. But macro lenses tend to be relatively slow focusing and the 70-200mm will be a whole lot more versatile for non-macro, action shots....
Well clear.... in the morning fog.
EF 70-200/2.8L IS at 105mm and f4. EOS 50D at ISO 400, 1/400 shutter speed. Handheld, ambient light. The 70-200 won't have any trouble keeping up with fast moving subjects...
Modified Spitfire Autocross - 2009 Triumphest, San Luis Obispo
EF 70-200/2.8 IS at 100mm and f16. EOS 50D at ISO 100, 1/50 shutter speed. Handheld, avail. light. Though at times you might want something longer...
Lowrider
EF 300/2.8L IS lens at f3.2. EOS 7D at ISO ISO 1600, 1/2000 shutter speed. Tripod w/gimbal head, available light. Or a even longer...
1986 Porsche 962, Turn 2 2009 Rolex Monterey Historic Races, Mazda/Laguna Seca Raceway
EF 300/4L IS lens with EF 1.4X II teleconverter, effective 420mm & f5.6. EOS 50D, ISO 200, 1/1600 shutter speed. Monopod, available light. Or you could choose to use some prime lenses, if you prefer...
Skye
EF 85/1.8 lens at f5.6. EOS 5D Mark II at ISO 400, 1/400 shutter speed. Handheld, avail. light. With T2i, the 70-200/4 will likely balance better than the f2.8 version. However, an f4 lens is going to be less useful in low light situations and might be less quick focusing than an f2.8 lens. If at all possible, I recommend getting the IS version of 70-200 (or longer)... it's really nice to have stabilization on these longer teles, especially when using them on a crop camera like yours.
Previous posts have mentioned some good alternatives, the Canon 100-400 IS for example. You also might want to consider the Sigma 120-400 OS and 150-500 OS, which are $500 or so less expensive than the Canon. All these lenses are f5.6 or slower at their longest focal lengths, so will generally be most useful in good daylight.
With your T2i, you will probably want to select the center AF point only, when shooting fast moving subjects. It's a more sensitive and responsive "cross type" sensor. All the other AF points are a less sensitive and slower type.
AFAIK, no one makes a single 50mm or 60mm macro extension tube for Canon EOS (I have one in Canon FD mount, tho). And stacking several macro tubes together tends to slow focus for a couple reasons.... One being the additional electronic connections between each tube. But another reason is simply light falloff within the tube, which is unavoidable with more extension (light falls off exponentially). However, with macro often focus speeds isn't an issue. It's often easier to just use manual focusing techniques. More of concern is controlling the aperture electronically. The $80-90 extension tubes are plastic and might flex a bit, causing electronic connectivity problems. The more expensive (about $180 US) Kenko tube set are sturdier metal and a tiny bit longer (12mm, 20mm and 36mm vs 11mm, 21mm and 31mm for the cheaper ones). Canon doesn't offer a set, but their individual tubes are also quite good, though a bit expensive (25mm is $140, 12mm is about $90).
Indoors, low light and shorter focal length.... Consider the Canon 28/1.8, Sigma 30/1.4, either Sigma or Canon 50/1.4.... Or if it will only occasionally be needed and used lightly, the inexpensive Canon 50/1.8 (slower and less accurate focus, not quite as nice image quality... but it takes much better photos than it should, considering it's low price).