Going to go shoot some indoor volleyball tomorrow. I am thinking I should use my 70-200mm lens. Any suggestions on settings?
seaninsa Goldmember 1,622 posts Likes: 331 Joined Sep 2011 More info | Mar 15, 2012 12:56 | #1 Going to go shoot some indoor volleyball tomorrow. I am thinking I should use my 70-200mm lens. Any suggestions on settings?
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Mar 15, 2012 13:38 | #2 seaninsa wrote in post #14091722 Going to go shoot some indoor volleyball tomorrow. I am thinking I should use my 70-200mm lens. Any suggestions on settings? Depends on the light.
Focal Length: 200.0mm Aperture: f/2.8 Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800) ISO equiv: 3200 Exposure Bias: +0.33 EV Metering Mode: Matrix Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto) White Balance: Auto Flash Fired: No (enforced) Orientation: Normal Color Space: sRGB
Focal Length: 97.0mm Aperture: f/2.8 Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800) ISO equiv: 2000 Exposure Bias: none Metering Mode: Matrix Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto) White Balance: Auto Flash Fired: No (enforced) Orientation: Normal Color Space: sRGB If you really want the right settings, use a light meter,
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Mar 15, 2012 14:20 | #3 What metering do you recommend?
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Mar 15, 2012 17:53 | #4 seaninsa wrote in post #14092200 What metering do you recommend? As already mentioned, incident metering - using a separate light meter.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Mar 15, 2012 17:57 | #5 Would you use spot, evaluative, or center metering? AI Servo I am guessing.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
IslandCrow Senior Member 589 posts Likes: 1 Joined Oct 2008 Location: Rapid City, SD More info | Mar 16, 2012 15:38 | #6 If you're shooting inside a gym, the lighting should be pretty constant, so I'd highly recommend using manual exposure, thereby making the camera's metering moot. Obviously, an incident light meter is going to be the best way to get a proper exposure, but if you don't have one, I certainly wouldn't rush out and buy one just for this. Here are a couple other techniques.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Snydremark my very own Lightrules moment More info | Mar 16, 2012 15:52 | #7 Also, if the gym is lit with fluorescent or compact fluorescent bulbs, you'll want to keep your shutter speeds "on cycle" with the lights or you'll see really weird lighting artifacts (different light levels for the same shots, etc). IIRC, those run at 60hz, so you need shutter speeds that are multiples of 1/60 (1/60, 1/120, 1/240, etc). - Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife
LOG IN TO REPLY |
stover98074 Senior Member 421 posts Likes: 2 Joined Apr 2010 More info | Mar 16, 2012 17:22 | #8 I shoot for fun and shoot manual in gyms for volley ball and there is never enough light – so there can be tradeoffs. Canon XSI, Asahi Pentax Auto Bellows, 50 Fujinon EP, 80 El Nikkor, 105 El Nikkor, 135 Fujinon EP
LOG IN TO REPLY |
RSB Senior Member 317 posts Likes: 3 Joined Oct 2009 Location: Carlsbad, CA More info | Mar 16, 2012 17:29 | #9 Snydremark wrote in post #14098982 Also, if the gym is lit with fluorescent or compact fluorescent bulbs, you'll want to keep your shutter speeds "on cycle" with the lights or you'll see really weird lighting artifacts (different light levels for the same shots, etc). IIRC, those run at 60hz, so you need shutter speeds that are multiples of 1/60 (1/60, 1/120, 1/240, etc). This is just recollection of troubles I've seen; hopefully someone that's actually shot in these conditions can clarify that one. You are correct in that most of these lights cycle at 1/60th, but the only way you'll get a consistent color balance without strobes is to shoot at 1/60th, 1/30th, 1/15th, which is not fast enough for any type of action. The lights go through their full spectrum every 1/60th of a second, so if you shoot at 1/60th, your sensor will see the full spectrum, 1/30th and it will see the full spectrum twice. Anything faster than 1/60th, and your sensor is freezing the ambient somewhere in the middle of the full spectrum, which is why if you shoot a burst of 10 frames at 1/250th sec, you'll have a different color cast in almost every image. The only way to get consistent color, shooting under these lights, is to use strobes to overpower the ambient. Unfortunately, strobes are almost never allowed at Volleyball matches. Randy Brister, Cr.Photog.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Mar 16, 2012 19:13 | #10 RSB wrote in post #14099458 You are correct in that most of these lights cycle at 1/60th, but the only way you'll get a consistent color balance without strobes is to shoot at 1/60th, 1/30th, 1/15th, which is not fast enough for any type of action. The lights go through their full spectrum every 1/60th of a second, so if you shoot at 1/60th, your sensor will see the full spectrum, 1/30th and it will see the full spectrum twice. Anything faster than 1/60th, and your sensor is freezing the ambient somewhere in the middle of the full spectrum, which is why if you shoot a burst of 10 frames at 1/250th sec, you'll have a different color cast in almost every image. The only way to get consistent color, shooting under these lights, is to use strobes to overpower the ambient. Correct. www.zivnuska.zenfolio.com/blog
LOG IN TO REPLY |
RSB Senior Member 317 posts Likes: 3 Joined Oct 2009 Location: Carlsbad, CA More info | Shooting Raw is almost an absolute necessity. Not to offend the jpegs shooters here, but shooting under cycling lights is one of those occasions where Raw will really make a huge difference. Process for skin tones and uniforms, then the Hue/Saturation sliders in PS will do wonders with removing any background cast. Randy Brister, Cr.Photog.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
stover98074 Senior Member 421 posts Likes: 2 Joined Apr 2010 More info | Mar 17, 2012 14:17 | #12 Zivnuska wrote in post #14099982 Correct. Think faces and read the tutorial by Big K. He is a master of shooting volleyball. https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=767866 There's lots of challenges in shooting volleyball. Shoot and post. Study your results and repeat. It may take you a few times before you master the subtleties of photographing this fast paced game. During the preseason, I'll get permission from the coach to go to a practice just so I can work on my timing. You might have a better sense of timing than me but I find that I need to work on my timing to give me a better chance of getting that image at the proper moment. Phil https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php?t=1091324
Canon XSI, Asahi Pentax Auto Bellows, 50 Fujinon EP, 80 El Nikkor, 105 El Nikkor, 135 Fujinon EP
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Mar 18, 2012 12:07 | #13 Here are some of my pictures from my first attempt at shooting Volleyball. The lighting varied from location to location in the gym. I was shooting at iso 6400 and f2.8. Depending on where I located myself the fastest shutter speed I could get was 1/500th. Image hosted by forum (586125) © seaninsa [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. Image hosted by forum (586126) © seaninsa [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. Not sure why they look so dark here. The two pictures are nice and bright on my monitor.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
![]() | x 1600 |
| y 1600 |
| Log in Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!
|
| ||
| Latest registered member was a spammer, and banned as such! 1631 guests, 137 members online Simultaneous users record so far is 15,144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018 | |||