I'm talking about simple PP like saturation or contrast boosts.
From what I've noticed, the 135mm F2L and the 70-200mm F4 IS require minimum to no PP.
Significa Senior Member 260 posts Joined Mar 2011 Location: New York City and Boston More info | Mar 15, 2012 23:38 | #1 I'm talking about simple PP like saturation or contrast boosts. Canon 60D | Canon 15-85 IS USM | Sigma 30mm 1.4 HSM | Canon 135mm F2L | Canon 70-200mm F4L IS | Canon 430EX II | Panasonic GF3 | Pansonic 20mm 1.7 | Panasonic 14-42mm OIS
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RPCrowe Cream of the Crop More info | Mar 15, 2012 23:47 | #2 When I switched from the 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens to a 24-70mm f/2.8L; the first thing that I noticed was that the images from the L lens needed less contrast increase and less sharpening... See my images at http://rpcrowe.smugmug.com/
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irishman Goldmember 4,098 posts Likes: 14 Joined Jul 2007 Location: Scottsdale, AZ More info | Mar 15, 2012 23:48 | #3 Too many variables to make a blanket statement. I shoot raw in standard style with no in camera sharpening, etc. I work at it. 6D, G9, Sigma 50 1.4, Sigma 15mm Fisheye, Sigma 50 2.8 macro, Nikon 14-24G 2.8, Canon 16-35 2.8 II, Canon 24-105 f/4 IS, Canon 70-200 2.8 IS, tripod, lights, other stuff.
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Drozz119 Goldmember 1,340 posts Likes: 2 Joined Dec 2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa More info | Mar 15, 2012 23:50 | #4 |
k-lo Goldmember 1,316 posts Likes: 1 Joined Jan 2010 Location: Lost in SN's Canon vs Nikon Thread More info | Mar 16, 2012 01:35 | #5 so far my 35L seems to bring out the best contrast and color saturation of all my L's. -=Karlo=- 1D III, 5D Mark II, 17-40 4 L, 35 1.4 L 24-70 2.8 L, 135mm 2.0 L, 85mm 1.2 L II, 300mm f 2.8 L, 580EX II, and a crapload of Elinchrom Gear
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Mar 16, 2012 01:36 | #6 irishman wrote in post #14095068 Too many variables to make a blanket statement. I shoot raw in standard style with no in camera sharpening, etc. I work at it. I was thinking the same thing. Amount of PP depends on the amount of in camera adjustments made first. 5D4 | 8-15L | 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS | 24L II | 40mm pancake | 100L IS | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS mk2 | 400mm f/4 DO IS
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BearDale "I get 'em pregnant" More info | Mar 16, 2012 01:38 | #7 I think this question is impossible to answer. Cheers,
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k-lo Goldmember 1,316 posts Likes: 1 Joined Jan 2010 Location: Lost in SN's Canon vs Nikon Thread More info | Mar 16, 2012 01:58 | #8 kawi_200 wrote in post #14095408 I was thinking the same thing. Amount of PP depends on the amount of in camera adjustments made first. Hi Kawi, kindly explain to me what are in camera adjustments. Seriously, I'm just curious what kind of adjustments you fiddle with. fotoworx wrote in post #14095414 I think this question is impossible to answer. Hi Jim! I think what the OP asked was a very simple question: Which lens uses less saturation and contrast boost in post? -=Karlo=- 1D III, 5D Mark II, 17-40 4 L, 35 1.4 L 24-70 2.8 L, 135mm 2.0 L, 85mm 1.2 L II, 300mm f 2.8 L, 580EX II, and a crapload of Elinchrom Gear
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Mar 16, 2012 02:28 | #9 k-lo wrote in post #14095473 Hi Kawi, kindly explain to me what are in camera adjustments. Seriously, I'm just curious what kind of adjustments you fiddle with. ![]() Hi Jim! I think what the OP asked was a very simple question: Which lens uses less saturation and contrast boost in post? I use the Picture Style options for my shots. I have my personal adjustments preset to the options for my scenarios. I have a "normal" with 0 contrast adjustment and +2 saturation, and one with -4 contrast and +2 saturation. They are the ones I use most. It just fits my style. From there, I edit the picture as needed. 5D4 | 8-15L | 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS | 24L II | 40mm pancake | 100L IS | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS mk2 | 400mm f/4 DO IS
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modchild Goldmember 1,469 posts Likes: 3 Joined Jul 2011 Location: Lincoln, Uk More info | Mar 16, 2012 06:20 | #10 I've taken my time to get my cameras adjusted to get the best photo SOOC so that more often than not I can get by with minimal or no PP at all. I love the colour and contrast I get with my 24-105 f4 L and 70-200 2.8 IS L SOOC, but I have to tone down the colour when I use my 50 1.8 and 100 2.8 L macro. EOS 5D MkIII, EOS 70D, EOS 650D, EOS M, Canon 24-70 f2.8L MkII, Canon 70-200 f2.8L IS MkII, Canon 100 f2.8L Macro, Canon 17-40 f4L IS, Canon 24-105 f4L IS, Canon 300 f4L IS, Canon 85 f1.8, Canon 50 f1.4, Canon 40 f2.8 STM, Canon 35 f2, Sigma 150-500 OS, Tamron 18-270 PZD, Tamron 28-300 VC, 580EX II Flash, Nissin Di866 MkII Flash, Sigma EM 140 Macro Flash and other bits.
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BearDale "I get 'em pregnant" More info | Mar 16, 2012 06:30 | #11 k-lo wrote in post #14095473 Hi Jim! I think what the OP asked was a very simple question: Which lens uses less saturation and contrast boost in post? Sunlight? Studio? O'cast? Shadows? Cheers,
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nightcat Goldmember 4,533 posts Likes: 28 Joined Aug 2008 More info | Mar 16, 2012 07:08 | #12 Significa wrote in post #14095036 I'm talking about simple PP like saturation or contrast boosts. From what I've noticed, the 135mm F2L and the 70-200mm F4 IS require minimum to no PP. The 70-200mm f4 IS certainly comes to mind. Then again, saturation or contrast boosts are so easy to adjust in PP.
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Mar 16, 2012 08:38 | #13 Since Im a landscape shooter, Im always shooting in RAW so maybe my experience differs from the majority, but Ill play anyway. I would argue that, for a landscape shooter, there is no lens in the world that doesnt require post processing to get the best image. Ive used the TS-e 24, 24L II, Zeiss 21 and a whole slough of zooms (on a 5DII) and every one of them needed post processing for contrast, sharpness and color to get what I wanted out of them. Who knows, maybe I just suck in camera... Lake Superior and North Shore Landscape Photography
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Billginthekeys Billy the kid 7,359 posts Likes: 2 Joined Nov 2005 Location: Islamorada, FL More info | Mar 16, 2012 08:47 | #14 fotoworx wrote in post #14095414 I think this question is impossible to answer. I get where you are coming from. I am all for doing everything right you can in the camera, but people that have this idea that "a real photographer doesn't need photoshop" or that "in the film days people couldn't do what they did today" (notice that photoshop is a "digital darkroom" and most of the tools it uses are named after physical tools and techniques that are used in a physical darkroom). The point is, even if you do everything right in the camera, and use the best lens for the job, even the best picture you take will benefit more from being taken in RAW and properly, but conservatively, edited on the computer. You get so much more control over a RAW image even when the goal is just to give that final little punch to a technically perfect image than a camera created JPEG, even with picture styles. Mr. the Kid.
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stsva Cream of the Crop More info | Mar 16, 2012 09:57 | #15 MNUplander wrote in post #14096476 Since Im a landscape shooter, Im always shooting in RAW so maybe my experience differs from the majority, but Ill play anyway. I would argue that, for a landscape shooter, there is no lens in the world that doesnt require post processing to get the best image. Ive used the TS-e 24, 24L II, Zeiss 21 and a whole slough of zooms (on a 5DII) and every one of them needed post processing for contrast, sharpness and color to get what I wanted out of them. Who knows, maybe I just suck in camera... This is the right answer from where I'm sitting. Some Canon stuff and a little bit of Yongnuo.
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