Which Canon lenses require the least PP?

Lenses do have different internal flare levels as a result of their formulas, and that's going to make a difference in contrast and saturation. Lenses with fewer elements and the simplest construction will normally have less internal flare (all other things, such as coating technology, being equal).

That means prime lenses in the moderately wide to telephoto range will normally have less internal flare, thus better contrast and saturation. That's been true since forever, and still generally is.

However, most of us can't confine our shooting to just those lenses that exhibit the least internal flare. Furthermore, that's not the only reason someone would post-process their images. I agree with others that the ability to do judicial post processing will almost always result in improving any image. That's also been true since forever.

It's certainly a digital-age idea that a superior photographer should produce images that are perfect right out of the camera. In years past, no photographer--not even those who exclusively shot transparencies--would have scoffed at the photographer who did expert darkroom work.

For lenses I have absolute leader is 70-200 F4, 99% of shots are SOOC capable.
Following closely by 17-40F4.
My Tamron 28-75 and canon 35f2 and 100f2 are SOOC capable if exposure was right.
The only lens I need to PP very often to tweek colors and contrast was Rebel kit lens.

I adjust saturation and contrast in virtually every image I shoot, regardless of lens. I'm not saying there are no differences in lenses in this regard, but if you're shooting RAW, I suspect that whatever lens you use will have far less impact on the final image in terms of color and contrast than what you do in post processing (or the parameters you use for your in-camera settings if shooting JPEG).

ones used in the appropriate light with the stars aligning for AWB.

oh and Zeiss

kawi_200 wrote in post #14095525
I use the Picture Style options for my shots. I have my personal adjustments preset to the options for my scenarios. I have a "normal" with 0 contrast adjustment and +2 saturation, and one with -4 contrast and +2 saturation. They are the ones I use most. It just fits my style. From there, I edit the picture as needed.

I understand where you're coming from now. The OP should have made it clear whether its in RAW or jpeg mode. I was clearly under the impression that he was asking about RAW files because they are basically untouched image data and pushing levels in post is the natural way of doing it. If you are applying picture styles and shooting raw you are just basically applying post to just the image being previewed in your LCD. The picture style will eventually get discarded by your editor (LR/PS). If you were shooting JPEG then I understand now.

fotoworx wrote in post #14096063
Sunlight? Studio? O'cast? Shadows?

Jim, obviously white balance is a factor. And obviously white balance needs to be set before taking the shot or if you are shooting raw and you forgot to set it, fixed before any other post work is done. Let's just assume for a minute that you got that all squared away. How much "hot mouse action" do you need to do to slide the basic image sliders?

RDKirk wrote in post #14096902
I agree with others that the ability to do judicial post processing will almost always result in improving any image. That's also been true since forever.

I agree.

stsva wrote in post #14096967
I adjust saturation and contrast in virtually every image I shoot, regardless of lens. I'm not saying there are no differences in lenses in this regard, but if you're shooting RAW, I suspect that whatever lens you use will have far less impact on the final image in terms of color and contrast than what you do in post processing (or the parameters you use for your in-camera settings if shooting JPEG).

You are right however the quality of lens has a big impact on time/effort. The better the lens and it's transmission curve to the sensor the less time or effort is required to get to the final product.

The one bought by the photographer who knows what he/she is doing.

People here are overthinking things. But yes, I should have mentioned RAW. So, let me rephrase, in ideal conditions with pictures being shot in RAW - which lens require the least adjustments SOOC?

Significa wrote in post #14099368
People here are overthinking things. But yes, I should have mentioned RAW. So, let me rephrase, in ideal conditions with pictures being shot in RAW - which lens require the least adjustments SOOC?

You realize that the latest Canon DPP technology includes a database of lens faults so that the faults can be digitally corrected in post?

I'm well aware of that but do you realize that your reply doesn't answer my question?

Significa wrote in post #14099368
People here are overthinking things. But yes, I should have mentioned RAW. So, let me rephrase, in ideal conditions with pictures being shot in RAW - which lens require the least adjustments SOOC?

I agree with the other posters, "adjustments" in post processing is not necessarily dependent on the lens. Sometimes you need to adjust exposure, contrast, levels or color saturation but I am not aware of an absolute best lens. (Of course some lens are better than others!)

Significa wrote in post #14099368
People here are overthinking things.

I think your under thinking things.

themadman wrote in post #14097943
The one bought by the photographer who knows what he/she is doing.

How does a photographer who knows what he's doing increase contrast and saturation in camera? Shoot jpeg and adjust in picture styles?

fotoworx wrote in post #14095414
I think this question is impossible to answer.

Agree. There are too many factors involved for anyone to say with absolute confidence

Personally, assuming I do my part, my 70-200II needs nothing done - use them frequently SOOC, just converted to jpeg. But, I have to do my part.

huntersdad wrote in post #14100318
Personally, assuming I do my part, my 70-200II needs nothing done - use them frequently SOOC, just converted to jpeg. But, I have to do my part.

I don't use PP that much, I set up some preferences for sharpening, contrast, etc, in camera. But they are very general settings. I may want to increase sharpness or saturation later on in PP, or I may have to deal with exposure issues. Every shot is different.