I simply have little need for IS on wide lenses. They are so much easier to hold at lower shutter speeds. Plus cameras keep getting higher and higher usable ISOs, further off-setting the need for IS on all but the longest lenses.
IMO, is sort of a marketing gimmick on an 18-55 or 17-55... Canon didn't have much choice but to add it on lenses that target entry-level and mid-level shooters, since the competition was offering it. But I bet if the IS failed on those short zooms, some users might not even notice. And, presumably, someone choosing a FF camera and lenses to use on it would be a bit more experienced, would have a pretty good idea of their limitationd and how to steady their shots.
Don't get me wrong, I love IS... On lenses longer than 100mm. In fact, IS was one of the key reasons I switched to Canon years ago.... They were the only ones offering it at that time. But I was shooting with film, too... ISO 50, 100 and 200 mostly. Rarely any faster than 400. Still, even with DSLRs that I feel comfortable using ISO 3200 and 6400, I get shots I couldn't otherwise and I wouldn't want to be without IS on 70-200, 300mm and 500mm lenses. I like having it on 28-135 that only cost me $250 used, and would be willing to pay a little extra for a 135/2, 200/2.8 or 400/5.6 that had IS.
Sure, if it's free or costs very little... or I simply don't have a choice... I'll take IS on shorter lenses too. It can't hurt. (Well, it does add complexity to both mechanism and optical formula, but it's proven pretty reliable, maybe even "fail safe"... and you do have to remember to turn off some of the simpler types of IS on a tripod.)
But, given a choice and if there were any significant savings involved, I'd opt for 16 or 17-to-whatever or 24-to-anything-less-than-100mm without IS over a lens in these focal length that has it... at higher cost.
I can handhold most lenses at or slightly below shutter speeds the reciprocal their focal length, even on a crop camera (theoretically you should use the 1/shutter speed x the lens factor... such as 1.6X with the APS-C cameras). But I try not to go below 1/30 or maybe 1/25 handheld even with very wide lenses... That's starting to get into "mirror slap" territory anyway, where there's more to getting a sharp, blur-free shot than just holding the camera steady. IS can help with shutter slap, but MLU or Live View is better.... and by then the camera is usually on a tripod or at least a monopod anyway. With some IS lenses, you have to remember to turn it off manually, too, when using the lens on tripod.
However, I reserve the right to change my mind... If my hands are less steady as I get older! 