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Thread started 20 Mar 2012 (Tuesday) 13:31
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How to avoid overexposed sky?

 
OriginalProof
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Mar 20, 2012 13:31 |  #1

Hey, I have recently been taking a lot of outdoor photographs and I notice the sky is usually way to over exposed or worse the light from the sky is coming infront of the subject. I'm a fairly new photographer and wanted to know how to avoid this. By the way, I use a 50mm 1.8 lens on a 60D body.

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Example! thanks for the help. Really appreciated it.



  
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jmarshphoto
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Mar 20, 2012 13:34 |  #2

Expose for the sky and use some fill flash. This link will be helpful also http://www.strobist.bl​ogspot.com/ (external link)

Great shot BTW


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mike_311
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Mar 20, 2012 13:36 |  #3

you could try a polarizing filter or not taking portrait photos when lighting conditions are so adverse.


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mplezia
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Mar 20, 2012 13:39 |  #4

If you want to properly expose the sky, you'll need a fill flash to properly expose your subject. I often will use the sun as a backlight and fill with flash to get a better exposure on the face/front of the subject.

This is a not great example since I used just the on camera flash and the sun was a little more left of camera than directly behind, but it worked out ok. I probably increased the fill light in post processing using LR3 as well. But, you can see that his dark shirt is still under exposed at the bottom.

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I'm sure the more experienced members have better tips and examples, but this is something that has worked for me.

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Lincolnshire ­ Poacher
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Mar 20, 2012 13:41 |  #5

This shot looks to me as if you have a little sun flare as evidenced by a slight "mistiness" or lack of contrast. That should be correctable in PP.

However, your original question is a broad subject, but it relates to the dynamic range of your camera. Dynamic range is simply the range between light and dark which your camera can reproduce. It is far less than the human eye eo you have to take steps to reduce it. In this case, I would have used the exposure compensation to reduce overall exposure by a stop or two. That may be enough to retain a bit of sky detail. Alternatively with a close, backlit image, you could use fill in flash from the camera to light the subject, whilst setting your camera to expose for the sky.

Another technique I use is to take a meter reading from the sky and then use exposure lock whilst re-composing. This takes a bit of practice to know exactly how much sky to include in your meter reading.

Hope this helps.




  
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themadman
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Mar 20, 2012 13:43 |  #6

Make sure the sky is properly exposed (increase SS, reduce aperture, lower ISO, use a ND filter) and use a flash to light your subject.


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Mar 20, 2012 13:48 |  #7

Assuming you don't want to post process at all, underexposing and adding some flash would work. You could add a graduated neutral density filter (external link), but in some instances like this photo, you would have part of your subject's head in the filtered portion.
If you do want to post process then basically you'd make a simple HDR photo by taking two exposures and compositing them. Don't let anyone tell you HDR is a bad word. Like anything, it's only bad if over done.


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KrakenWakes
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Mar 20, 2012 13:49 |  #8

Oh and nice photo by the way. Great expression on his face.


A6000

  
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stsva
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Mar 20, 2012 13:51 |  #9

Try this:
http://daystarvisions.​com/Docs/Tuts/DCExp/pg​1.html (external link)


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Mar 20, 2012 13:52 as a reply to  @ jmarshphoto's post |  #10

Using a fast lens at wide apertures may result in a shutter speed faster than your camera can sync with the flash, you can use HSS which will use more flash power or buy a Neutral Density filter to bring down you shutter speed.

Some links that may help

Expose for the Sky - HSS (external link)

HSS V's ND Filter (external link)


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weegee
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Mar 20, 2012 14:08 |  #11

Some other ideas that aren't so "light" focused.

Compose a tighter shot so the sky isn't such a large part of the back ground. Maybe change the angle as well so you're not shooting up or at, but more down.

I really like the expression. But if you want some criticism, you could have moved a little in either direction just to get rid of the pole in the back ground (kind of growing out of his head). But really nice bokeh, really sharp and great expression. Great work for being "fairly new"


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Mar 20, 2012 14:09 |  #12

Here I thought the best way was to shoot the scene without the person in it, then shoot the person against a white or black background and then superimpose? :D

Probably explains why I get crummy results like this hack job! :lol:

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mtimber
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Mar 20, 2012 14:12 |  #13

Expose for the sky, then push the fill light 800%...

:-)


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mtimber
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Mar 20, 2012 14:12 |  #14

^^Joking by the way. :-)


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weegee
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Mar 20, 2012 14:14 |  #15

LOL. Then complain when the new 5d3 can't handle that without noise.


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How to avoid overexposed sky?
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