If you had to choose a $25-$30 CPL

John from PA wrote in post #14134373
How about $39 for the Hoya "moose" at http://www.ebay.com …lters&hash=item​53eaebe2fb. This is where I bought mine. I see someone else also has a link to the same vendor but it is the "standard" Hoya.

Truthfully, you can go really high end, spending near or even over $100. High dollars often get you very thin filters which will prevent vignetting which is darkness in the corners; essentially the camera "sees" the filter. But the mid-range filters made by reputable firms are quite good. I just happen to like what the "moose" did for me in Jackson Hole and Yellowstone and some car shows where I wanted to reduce reflections.

So you had good luck with the Hoya Moose? I like the idea of a slight warming affect. Its hard on forums some times, everyone says you must have the best (same way on my Radio Control Cars forum) but its not always true. Alot of people have great luck without spending $100, and those are the people I am trying to find

Littlejon Dsgn wrote in post #14134500
So you had good luck with the Hoya Moose? I like the idea of a slight warming affect. Its hard on forums some times, everyone says you must have the best (same way on my Radio Control Cars forum) but its not always true. Alot of people have great luck without spending $100, and those are the people I am trying to find

Well that is not entirely true, especially with RC cars. I use to own a RC hobby shop and race 1/10 EP Touring, 1/8 on road nitro and 1/5 Touring. It isn't always true to buy the best there is until you get into the top end of racing. It's more skill then equipment until you reach the pro level of racing then equipment will make a difference. Its not the same for camera equipment. If you don't have good equipment it will be hard to get good results. In other words, you can't have good IQ by putting a cheap filter in front of your lens.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

Littlejon Dsgn wrote in post #14133485
I am most interested in its ability to knock down the glare from windows, I want to take a few pictures from inside the plane. Also my last trip to Hawaii the GF and I did a helicopter tour of the Napoli coast (amazing coastline) I took close to 500 pictures on my P.S. I think maybe 5 came out usable due to the reflection of the windows.

Been busy today. But I just have to say that if you plan to use the polarizer for photographing from inside a plane, DON'T. Aircraft windows are typically plastic and plastic under stress polarizes the light passing through. At best, you'll get a mottled image; at worst you'll get rainbow stress patterns. For aircraft, shoot RAW and boost the contrast in post-processing.

Save up and buy a good CPL when you can afford it, rather than getting a cheap one up front.

I am still leaning twards getting the B+W I liked a few post back.

As for RC, I have only raced offroad where even at the top level driver talent is 98% of the equation, and yes top gear helps, but you dont have to pay top dollar to get top gear

"Aircraft windows are typically plastic and plastic under stress polarizes the light passing through. At best, you'll get a mottled image; at worst you'll get rainbow stress patterns. For aircraft, shoot RAW and boost the contrast in post-processing."

Although this can happen, it did not happen on a flight I made a year back on the Big Island. That may very well have been due to where I was sitting as I had discussed with the pilot in advance the path we would take over the active volcano and because I was once a pilot, I got to sit in the right seat.

A tip on a free ride - we went to one of the resorts run by Marriot that offered a free plane ride in exchange for two hours of your time. It was hastle free and the four of us got our plane ride. Takjes a good firm committment on the part of everyone however to not buy a condo!

John from PA wrote in post #14136108
"Aircraft windows are typically plastic and plastic under stress polarizes the light passing through. At best, you'll get a mottled image; at worst you'll get rainbow stress patterns. For aircraft, shoot RAW and boost the contrast in post-processing."

Although this can happen, it did not happen on a flight I made a year back on the Big Island. That may very well have been due to where I was sitting as I had discussed with the pilot in advance the path we would take over the active volcano and because I was once a pilot, I got to sit in the right seat.

A tip on a free ride - we went to one of the resorts run by Marriot that offered a free plane ride in exchange for two hours of your time. It was hastle free and the four of us got our plane ride. Takjes a good firm committment on the part of everyone however to not buy a condo!

Yup the soon to be wife and I have done the condo/time share sales pitch before (Vegas not Hawaii), never seams worth it in the end. Her brother lives on Kauai which is one of the islands we will be on, so we get hooked up with lots of 2 for 1's. Cruise to the Napoli, helicopters that sort of stuff

Sticking any glass between the world and your sensor is just one more layer that can negatively affect your image. A cheap filter is worse than none. I might wait and get a B + W CPL when you have more dough to spend.

Littlejon Dsgn wrote in post #14132313
Thank you however I do not go to Starbucks (or any coffee shop for that matter ) I am headed to Hawaii in 3 weeks so I would like to have something to play around with while there. I pinch every penny I can as it is, and getting a $100 filter to put in front of a kit lens does not make much sence to me. I currently dont have any plans to upgrade to a better lens either (still working on my other skills and the lens is not yet holding me back)

Why? You can always keep the filter if and when you do upgrade your lens, or sell it for not much less than you paid for it if the "upgraded" lens calls for a larger filter (crappy filters have zero resale value, but do make for good drink coasters). You don't want to put a good filter in front of a kit lens because you feel that the kit lens isn't up to par from an IQ standpoint, but you're willing to put a more-than-likely crappy filter on the lens? How would that help things? Surely you could scrape up the funds for a better than average quality filter...Maxsaver.net has very good deals on higher-end filters.

argyle wrote in post #14144009
Why? You can always keep the filter if and when you do upgrade your lens, or sell it for not much less than you paid for it if the "upgraded" lens calls for a larger filter (crappy filters have zero resale value, but do make for good drink coasters). You don't want to put a good filter in front of a kit lens because you feel that the kit lens isn't up to par from an IQ standpoint, but you're willing to put a more-than-likely crappy filter on the lens? How would that help things? Surely you could scrape up the funds for a better than average quality filter...Maxsaver.net has very good deals on higher-end filters.

Check also www.2filter.com. Their website is a mess, but they're in New Hampshire and have great prices. Believe it or not, they are actually a B + W authorised dealer (B&H is not!!!) You can talk to a knowledgable human being about which filter will be best. You might not need a B + W for what you want to do, and they'll point you to the best value.

That's been my experience. And you don't have to deal with Hong Kong shipping if there's a problem.

tvphotog wrote in post #14145036
Check also www.2filter.com. Their website is a mess, but they're in New Hampshire and have great prices. Believe it or not, they are actually a B + W authorised dealer (B&H is not!!!) You can talk to a knowledgable human being about which filter will be best. You might not need a B + W for what you want to do, and they'll point you to the best value.

That's been my experience. And you don't have to deal with Hong Kong shipping if there's a problem.

You're right about the 2filter website...poorly set up and arranged, not to mention never knowing what's in stock until you receive the order confirmation email, which is why I no longer shop at 2filter (just isn't worth the hassle, and if I have to call them by phone to verify stock before placing an order, what's the point of on-line shopping?). I'm not at all concerned one iota about the "authorized dealer" thing...I'm quite sure that if there were a problem with an item for which B&H is not "authorized", returning it for an exchange or refund still would not be a problem.