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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 24 Mar 2012 (Saturday) 19:19
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5D Mark III Underexposed

 
Saxi
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Apr 07, 2012 16:02 |  #46

Phrasikleia wrote in post #14226521 (external link)
It's a bright sunny day where I am right now, and I can't get the meter to budge just by covering the top LCD. Whatever little bit of light is reaching the meter that way has no measurable effect on metering with the lens cap off.

Those of you with underexposure problems can easily rule out the LCD as the source of your problems. Just test the camera with the LCD covered up for a series of test shots. If it's still underexposing, then the problem lies elsewhere.

Have you confirmed your camera does it in the ideal conditions mentioned (ISO 800, AV mode, view finder blocked, lens cap on)? Not all bodies are doing it, mine certainly is.


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Phrasikleia
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Apr 07, 2012 16:07 |  #47

Saxi wrote in post #14226526 (external link)
Have you confirmed your camera does it in the ideal conditions mentioned (ISO 800, AV mode, view finder blocked, lens cap on)? Not all bodies are doing it, mine certainly is.

Yes, it does it with the lens cap on. I tried it with my 5D3 and 7D. No change on the 7D, but it does change on the 5D3. And for what it's worth, my impression of the metering on the 5D3 has been that it's better than the 5D2 or 7D. I was immediately impressed by it. I've had the camera since March 22.


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SeanH
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Apr 07, 2012 17:56 as a reply to  @ Phrasikleia's post |  #48

Every body meters different.

You figure out the sweet spot and move on....

Don't think I've ever owned a body that shot consistently good at 0 EC. I run between + 1/3 - +1 on every single Canon body I have ever owned.....which is about every one they have made since the 10D. My norm is +2/3.


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Higgs ­ Boson
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Apr 07, 2012 17:56 |  #49

Saxi wrote in post #14226344 (external link)
I use LR. My 7D would frequently underexpose, but +1/3 and sometimes +2/3 would get around that. The 5D III can still be a stop off even with +1/3. Frequently is .5 off.

off of what though I guess is my question. it's going to be different from LR histo, it's definitely not going to be the same as the 7d, especially through LR.

does it look underexposed or is it scientifically measured underexposed? etc....


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Saxi
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Apr 07, 2012 18:27 |  #50

Higgs Boson wrote in post #14226999 (external link)
off of what though I guess is my question. it's going to be different from LR histo, it's definitely not going to be the same as the 7d, especially through LR.

does it look underexposed or is it scientifically measured underexposed? etc....

Both, I have to bring it up .5-1 stop so it doesn't look like someone turned out the lights.


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Phrasikleia
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Apr 07, 2012 19:07 |  #51

Saxi wrote in post #14227112 (external link)
Both, I have to bring it up .5-1 stop so it doesn't look like someone turned out the lights.

If that's the case, and you feel as though are experienced enough to rule out user error, then it sounds as though your camera has some other kind of defect. The LCD issue can't make that kind of a difference (if it can make any at all) in exposures with the lens cap removed. As I said before, you can easily rule out the LCD by covering it up for some test shots (with the lens cap off, of course). Have you tried that?


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Saxi
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Apr 07, 2012 19:18 |  #52

Phrasikleia wrote in post #14227251 (external link)
If that's the case, and you feel as though are experienced enough to rule out user error, then it sounds as though your camera has some other kind of defect. The LCD issue can't make that kind of a difference (if it can make any at all) in exposures with the lens cap removed. As I said before, you can easily rule out the LCD by covering it up for some test shots (with the lens cap off, of course). Have you tried that?

No, it's been too dark and only heard about the LCD issue today. I don't think it is the reason for the underexposing, I think it is just the evaluative metering is really bad. But I will do some testing tomorrow when I am shooting Easter.


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Allan.L
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Apr 07, 2012 19:35 |  #53

lenaapple1974 wrote in post #14215036 (external link)
Yes, with my 7D, I tend to underexpose by 1 stop - which I usually fix in post. .

You would actually need to OVER expose by 2/3-1+1/3 stop for better noise performance, im afraid underexposing makes noise worse!


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Apr 09, 2012 11:49 |  #54

not sure if mine is affected or not, but my 5D3 tends to underexpose everything, even when the meter is in the middle. In comparison, my 1ds2 nailed exposure every single time. dialing in +1/3, 2/3 isnt a big deal, but I'd like to think I am getting accurate exposures all the time. Its such a phenomenal camera, i hate the thought of selling it to go back to older tech.


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Higgs ­ Boson
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Apr 09, 2012 12:09 |  #55

It is a different camera....it's going to have different algorithms to calculate exposure, especially in Eval.

Are you metering Spot in Manual and getting grossly underexposed images or are you using Av/Tv and letting it fall on 0?

How do you know it's underexposed? Are you carrying your exposure through to print uncorrected and finding it dark? Do you do your own prints? Does the print lab adjust the brightness if it comes in too dark or light? What other external factors are influencing your final product in your exposure tests?

Or, does it just look underexposed on your monitor when you load them on your computer? Are you comparing your camera histogram to your LR/PS histogram?

Does letting it fall on 0 in Eval allow the camera to preserve the best compromise of Highlights and Shadows, even if the midtones seem dark?

My 5Diii exposes just like my 5Dii exposed. I always shoot to the right and bring it back down in PP. Does my camera underexpose images? I have no idea. I expose them myself. I do not allow the meter in my camera to determine what my picture should look like any more than I allow my hammer to determine how my house looks or my screwdriver to determine how my car runs.


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Panoz
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Apr 09, 2012 12:25 as a reply to  @ Higgs Boson's post |  #56

Oh EGAD...everyone giving advice about metering techniques instead of calibrating the camera. Geez, let's all think like professionals. Two things:

1) If the user says they find the camera's metering to be off, it probably is. The "everyone meters different" doesn't mean anything because the OP is seeing pictures different than the way they meter usually.

2) EASILY calibrate all your cameras, folks. Shoot a standard grey card in shadowless lighting, completely filling the frame. Use no exposure bias and use the average metering pattern. Take that image (RAW or JPEG, doesn't matter, but JPEG's faster) and use the sample eyedropper or viewing tool on whatever photo editor you have that shows the RGB values. For a perfectly calibrated meter/camera, you should have a value very close to 128/128/128 on a standard grey card. If you have an incident meter, meter the light falling on the card and use THAT exposure, not your camera's to see if your reflected camera meter and an incident meter match.

Digital cameras are soooooo easy to diagnose mechanical problems using #2 above.


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Higgs ­ Boson
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Apr 09, 2012 12:28 |  #57

Panoz wrote in post #14235866 (external link)
1) If the user says they find the camera's metering to be off, it probably is. The "everyone meters different" doesn't mean anything because the OP is seeing pictures different than the way they meter usually.

The way they meter usually with a different meter inside a different camera....hardly a scientific evaluation.

Panoz wrote in post #14235866 (external link)
2) EASILY calibrate all your cameras, folks. Shoot a standard grey card in shadowless lighting, completely filling the frame. Use no exposure bias and use the average metering pattern. Take that image (RAW or JPEG, doesn't matter, but JPEG's faster) and use the sample eyedropper or viewing tool on whatever photo editor you have that shows the RGB values. For a perfectly calibrated meter/camera, you should have a value very close to 128/128/128 on a standard grey card. If you have an incident meter, meter the light falling on the card and use THAT exposure, not your camera's to see if your reflected camera meter and an incident meter match.

Digital cameras are soooooo easy to diagnose mechanical problems using #2 above.

Good advice!


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Dj ­ R
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Apr 29, 2012 21:43 as a reply to  @ Higgs Boson's post |  #58

BryantFC wrote in post #14350368 (external link)
I'm having the same issues with saxi, really irritating! Idk if it's a user error kind of thing going on but i never had that much of an underexpose shot with the 5D2.

speaking of underexposed. almost all of my shots today were underexposed.
on my lcd, they look beautiful. I guess I should turn the brightness down :(

any advise?

spot meter

this shot, there are 3 AF points.
1 on the emblem
1 on the black part of the sleeve
1 on the ice

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+ 1.35
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I may try center-weighted a little more and dial in +1-1/3 to +1-2/3 EC if shooting aperture priority

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Higgs ­ Boson
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Apr 29, 2012 21:47 |  #59

if your af point was on the right side and you spot metered, you metered the white ice and turned it gray. no surprise.

my advise is you are in consistent and controlled lighting, use manual mode.


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Dj ­ R
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Apr 29, 2012 21:51 |  #60

Higgs Boson wrote in post #14350662 (external link)
if your af point was on the right side and you spot metered, you metered the white ice and turned it gray. no surprise.

my advise is you are in consistent and controlled lighting, use manual mode.

this shot, there are 3 AF points.
1 on the emblem
1 on the black part of the sleeve
1 on the ice


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5D Mark III Underexposed
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