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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 24 Mar 2012 (Saturday) 19:19
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5D Mark III Underexposed

 
sempaidavid
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Dec 18, 2012 10:41 |  #91

My camera checked out as "with in spec". I still am not happy with the results. It is still much less accurate than a y of my previous canon bodies.


5D mkIII, 1D mkIV, Tokina 16-28 f/2.8, EF 24-70L, EF 70-200 f/2.8L II IS, EF 100-400L, EF 85 f/1.8, Sigma 50 f/1.4, EF 24-105
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Higgs ­ Boson
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Dec 22, 2012 06:34 |  #92

Every canon i have had meters the same. remember also that the display screen is a processed jpeg and you are uploading an unprocessed raw file onto your computer.

the display will never indicate what kind of exposure you really got. i also use spot metering with manual mode and pick my settings once by taking a couple test photos and checking the histogram and overexposing as much as i can without blowing anything. almost all of my post processing requires underexposure in lightroom.


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Ricardo222
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Dec 22, 2012 20:47 |  #93

kcbrown wrote in post #15076118 (external link)
This thread is a really good illustration of why I don't use evaluative metering unless I have no other good options available to me.

Evaluative metering is a "magic" metering mode. Nobody really knows how it works, because it's the metering mode that tries to automatically get the exposure right. And just as the camera will occasionally (and perhaps even often) get it wrong if you let it choose the autofocus point to use, it will occasionally (perhaps even often) get it wrong if you let it automatically decide how to meter the scene.

This is why I generally use one of the other metering modes. Most often, I use spot metering in conjunction with manual mode because it lets me set the exposure based on the tone I want to assign to the area under the spot meter. It's about as much direct control as you can get.

I understand why Canon has evaluative metering mode as an option -- it's useful for neophytes who don't know anything about exposure. But I actually find it a bit surprising that it's used by professionals as often as it is. I suppose, like anything else, that once you have enough experience with it, it becomes predictable and, thus, useful in a setting where you must get the shot right. But because it's a "magic" mode, Canon is constantly tweaking it as they introduce new models, so you can expect to have to re-learn everything about it when you move to a new camera model. And this thread is evidence of that.

I really wish Canon would give us focus-point-linked spot metering in these cameras. It would eliminate most of the situations where I would be inclined to use evaluative metering mode (e.g., tracking a subject through changing light).


Canon really should at least give us one more metering mode: focus-point weighted average, which would work exactly as center weighted average does except the weighting point would be the focus point instead of the center. That would introduce a lot of predictability in a metering mode that would otherwise behave quite a lot like evaluative.

Interesting.
I spent a year shooting film in Antarctica with my old Nikon F Photomic Ftns, and that created some really challenging exposure situations.

Because I was shooting KodachromeII and wouldn't be able to check the results for a long time, I spent the first few days shooting Ilford PanF rated at 25ASA, the same as KII, and analysed the developed b&ws very carefully. In the field I had my Weston Master V light meter with Ansels Adam's zone system scratched on the dials, and I metered virtually everything off my hand or something mid tone, while checking what the TTL on the Nikon was trying to tell me.

After a while it became intuitive and I was able to compensate with the TTL and get good reesults...usually just by either resetting the ASA when I was shooting landscapes with a lot of white, or by using my hand and tilting it till the light reflected was similar to the light falling on people in the photograph. When the transparencies came back I was happy with the results.

With my 5D3 I find I am constantly shooting with Ex Comp .3 stop UNDER, which is different from most here it seems.

But the point of the above is that no-one should be getting consistently wrong results, on the basis that if you the same thing over and over and expect different results...:cry:

I still use manual exposure and the light falling on hand or similar in tricky situations, and agree that "evaluative" is at best an approximation that works much of the time, but not always. The real trick is in pre-guessing when it will be fooled!


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swoffa
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Dec 23, 2012 06:44 |  #94

I'm another who is feeling like the images are underexposing. Here's a couple of images from the other night while my kid was zonked out looking at something. they were taken about 30 seconds apart with no change to the lighting conditions. I selected spot metering.

These were imported to lightroom and then the reset button hit to clear out any initial preset. First one is 0 EV, the second +1 EV. The histogram is in the same area as all my shots when the needle is in the middle (0 EV).

IMAGE: http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/7357/0evv.jpg

IMAGE: http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/8333/1evk.jpg



  
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Ricardo222
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Dec 23, 2012 12:46 |  #95

You spot metered...what location did you meter from?


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swoffa
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Dec 23, 2012 14:17 |  #96

The broad side of his face. First one I recomposed for some reason, would that have contributed to these results?




  
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HughWill
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Dec 23, 2012 15:22 as a reply to  @ swoffa's post |  #97

I'm no expert, but--

If you recomposed enough (without locking exposure) so that you were metering off the wall, then yes, it would affect the results.

Either way, if you are metering off what appears to be a fairly light complexion, I would think positive compensation of maybe 2/3 might typically be needed.




  
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kcbrown
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Dec 26, 2012 23:13 |  #98

If you spot metered, then you need to understand that the camera will set the exposure so that the average tone underneath the spot comes out to be whatever the meter actually reads. So if you set your exposure so that the meter reads zero (neutral gray), then that's the average tone you'll get under the spot.

You can "reverse" this in order to use the spot metering to get exactly what you want: figure out what tone you want the spot to appear to have in the final shot, then set your exposure so that the meter reads that tone (either directly in manual mode, or through exposure compensation in one of the automatic exposure modes). In the case of the example shots of the kid, if you spot meter off of his face, you'll need to set your exposure so that the meter reads somewhere between +1 and +1.5 in order to get what most people would regard as the proper facial tone.


So your camera isn't underexposing in this case -- you are. It's just doing what it's programmed to do.


"There are some things that money can't buy, but they aren't Ls and aren't worth having" -- Shooter-boy
Canon: 2 x 7D, Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 OS, 55-250 IS, Sigma 8-16, 24-105L, Sigma 50/1.4, other assorted primes, and a 430EX.
Nikon: D750, D600, 24-85 VR, 50 f/1.8G, 85 f/1.8G, Tamron 24-70 VC, Tamron 70-300 VC.

  
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emko
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Dec 27, 2012 04:19 |  #99

I had the same problem until I realized that with the 5d mark iii I'm using more af points then just the center when I used the 550d. You have to understand how the metering modes are going to work based on your scene.




  
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emko
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Feb 05, 2013 04:55 |  #100

Has anyone figured this out I thought I did but looking at my lightroom I see most images are still getting +exposure in develop. I think since raw is saving me I haven't really studied how the metering works on the 5diii.




  
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swoffa
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Feb 05, 2013 05:11 |  #101

Not me. I'm still shooting +2/3 and bumping that up also. I actually took some test shots on the weekend but have not yet downloaded them. I'll post them up for viewing comment and some insight soon.




  
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Dj ­ R
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Feb 05, 2013 09:07 |  #102

did everyone check to see if their cameras were eligible for warranty repair? light leak...... fix..... may sound like b.s. to you, but get it done while it's free (under warranty). free professional repair, free professional CLEANING and CALIBRATE and updates.

why 2nd guess later.


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Phrasikleia
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Feb 05, 2013 10:58 |  #103

Dj R wrote in post #15574642 (external link)
did everyone check to see if their cameras were eligible for warranty repair? light leak...... fix..... may sound like b.s. to you, but get it done while it's free (under warranty). free professional repair, free professional CLEANING and CALIBRATE and updates.

why 2nd guess later.

Is the fix option going to expire? I haven't sent mine in, but I haven't had a single issue with it in actual shooting.


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Dj ­ R
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Feb 05, 2013 11:03 |  #104

Phrasikleia wrote in post #15574983 (external link)
Is the fix option going to expire? I haven't sent mine in, but I haven't had a single issue with it in actual shooting.

I believe it's a free-fix provided you have it done while your camera is under warranty.
However, only serial number whose sixth digit is “1″ or “2″ are affected by the issue. Any body shipped after the first week of May 2012 likely has the fix already applied.


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swoffa
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Feb 05, 2013 19:48 |  #105

I was out in the back yard with the camera. These were taken on the spur of the moment, just cranking up the ev between shots. I didn't take them with the intention of posting, just as an off hand check out if I'm dreaming or not. Since there was another post in the thread I thought I might as well stick them in here for you guys to provide feedback.

The histogram seems almost where I'd expect it for 0 but in the +1 image.

Anyways, impart your thoughts please.
Suggestions on better subject matter too for testing may be useful.

0 ev

IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img543/7104/toys0ev.jpg

+2/3 ev
IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img713/218/toys23ev.jpg

and for giggles. +1 ev
IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img716/4636/toys1ev.jpg



  
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5D Mark III Underexposed
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