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Thread started 02 Apr 2012 (Monday) 23:29
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abbypanda
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Apr 17, 2012 23:59 |  #16

I had a go at some indoor stuff tonight with my new lens. This may be a bit off topic but I am getting a lot of nosie with the 7d. Is it me? I broke out my old 50 d and I've always noticed the 7d to be noisy but brining the 50d back out and comparing....wow. Am I messing up? I see a lot of stuff on the net about the noise on the 7d. omg....




  
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abbypanda
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Apr 17, 2012 23:59 |  #17

the pics were 400 iso to 3200 iso, all very noisy




  
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deonholt
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Apr 18, 2012 04:51 |  #18

Hi there. I am following this discussion very closely. I mainly shoot rugby at the moment which means players are moving all the time. What focus mode do you use where players are constantly on the move? Is it Ai-Servo AF or Ai-Focus AF?
Also, which focus area do you mainly use?

Regards,
Deon




  
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dwarrenr
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Apr 18, 2012 06:49 |  #19

abbypanda wrote in post #14284687 (external link)
I had a go at some indoor stuff tonight with my new lens. This may be a bit off topic but I am getting a lot of nosie with the 7d. Is it me? I broke out my old 50 d and I've always noticed the 7d to be noisy but brining the 50d back out and comparing....wow. Am I messing up? I see a lot of stuff on the net about the noise on the 7d. omg....

Images SOOC are a bit noisier then most would except and require a bit more PP then what most users are used to.

I assume you've READ THIS Thread? I think it will help you out.

I have a 7D as a back up to a couple of 1D's, so I don't use it a whole lot, but have shot some Women's Volleyball last spring with great success. But I did have to learn how to process them a little differently.


D. Warren Robison
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dwarrenr
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Apr 18, 2012 06:56 |  #20

deonholt wrote in post #14285397 (external link)
Hi there. I am following this discussion very closely. I mainly shoot rugby at the moment which means players are moving all the time. What focus mode do you use where players are constantly on the move? Is it Ai-Servo AF or Ai-Focus AF?
Also, which focus area do you mainly use?

Regards,
Deon

Always use AI-Servo for moving subjects. AI focus is a mix of one shot focus and AI servo. It will do exactly what one shot does, but if it detects the subject moving it will refocus in AI servo. But it might not always know what you're trying to do.

I use a back button for focus, so I have no need for one shot focus, as AI-Servo will also work as one shot focus as long as you're using a back button for focus. So all of my bodies will be set to AI-Servo 99% of the time. Therefore if a shot is OOF, I know it's my fault and not the body.


D. Warren Robison
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mobei
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Apr 18, 2012 22:13 as a reply to  @ post 14241009 |  #21

DC Fan said:
Get a light meter that takes incident readings. Take the incident readings at the location where the action will be happening. Also, take a custom white balance reading at the location where the action will take place.

=======
Don't waste your time. Take two steps from the meter in a gym and everything changes.




  
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deonholt
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Apr 19, 2012 02:13 |  #22

Thank you very much to the both of you for your replies. I also use the back button for focusing with Ai-Servo. I do have the Sekonic L-358 which I will use. I have only used it in studio up till now. I will defenitaly try it out this coming Saturday.




  
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abbypanda
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Apr 22, 2012 23:02 |  #23

I had a go at some seminars with manual settings. I put up almost all of the pics, even the ones that werent good (tried to make sure to get most of the students).

You can see at the end of the second album the problem I am having with the red mats reflecting on the ceiling making the whole thing look pink. When I try to remove it the skin tones of the people get drained also.

I found when processing I had some probs with white balance, teh kids pics are very warm and adults very cold. I set my settings for flourescent but my gym has windows all across the front, so should I try something else? I appreciate any suggestions. I used manual for all these pics. Don't have a light meter yet, but will get one.

http://www.teamrevolut​iontv.com …no-Bastos/22566059_9ZGMsH (external link)

http://www.facebook.co​m …26k%3D3fnGVx9&h​=MAQHm3IdS (external link)

Also thank you dwarrenr for posting the link. I had seen that thread before but it was awhile ago and it was a lot for me then. re reading it it's made more sense. I was actually looking for that thread




  
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ChunkyDA
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Apr 25, 2012 23:36 |  #24

Depends on your camera. Suggested starting points include the following:
Canon 1DIV: http://www.sportsshoot​er.com/news/2371 (external link)
Canon 1DIIN: http://www.siphoto.com​/?canon1DM2N.inc (external link)
Canon 1DII: http://www.siphoto.com​/?canon1DM2.inc (external link)


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abbypanda
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Apr 25, 2012 23:49 |  #25

Thank you, but I have a 7d. I will go ahead and read those links. Thanks




  
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BeerWolf
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Apr 26, 2012 09:15 |  #26

Station15 wrote in post #14200696 (external link)
Aperture Priority for outdoor events during daytime. The lighting changes as time goes by. Manual for indoor and night sports since the lighting never changes.

I'm not very experienced, but why would you choose aperture priority for sports? If I'm shooting softball/baseball, I need a certain shutter speed to freeze the action. If it suddenly gets cloudy, I don't want the camera choosing a shutter speed that's too slow. I'd rather have a noisy photo than a blurred one, right?

I think I'd rather do manual with auto ISO.




  
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abruckse
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Apr 26, 2012 12:23 |  #27

Nothing wrong with using Av mode for sports as long as you give yourself some leeway. I almost never leave manual mode, but some people like to use Av when there is an extreme difference in lighting at different parts of the field/court, or if it's a partly cloudy day and the sun keeps poking in and out. You would just set your ISO a little higher so your median shutter speed will be well above the freeze point.


Andrew
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