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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 03 Apr 2012 (Tuesday) 19:44
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More speedlites = more power?

 
j-dogg
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Apr 03, 2012 19:44 |  #1

A shot I have been trying to determine the proper exposure for, which I seem to have a good idea how I need to do it, the problems I'm running into are lens flare and flash power.

The idea, is a long-exposure of the gate drop, and first locomotive pass, but freezing the first locomotive halfway through the crossing? Sound easy? Apparently, it isn't. This was my result from a few nights ago.

IMAGE: http://www.guvmentcheese.com/jd0gg/trainstuff/micco/1137lw-4823.jpg

Experimental 2-part then merge in Photoshop, proving to be a PITA. Gate drop wasn't too bad

IMAGE: http://www.guvmentcheese.com/jd0gg/trainstuff/micco/1137-4830.jpg

but here's that god-awful lens flare

IMAGE: http://www.guvmentcheese.com/jd0gg/trainstuff/micco/1137-4831.jpg

The concept of the shot is pretty good, at least I think it is. The lens flare, yeah it's a problem but I could make it work with ISO 50, f16. I have a few other similar focal length lenses I'm going to try to see if that helps.

The other option I have considered is the same gate drop but 1/250th sec for the locomotive pass and 4 of my EZ flash units slaved up in a wireless trigger system. I have even more flashes I could use, two more 300ez's and at full power they almost match my 540. What I really want to do is slave up 8 or more flash units to light other parts of the train up as it passes.

My equipment used on the previous two shots are as follows:

Canon 5D Classic, ISO 250
24-105/4L IS, IS off, manual focus engaged, F14 in the gate drop, F4 at the pass.
Shutter cord, 5$ metal Velbon VGB-3 tripod from a thirft store. :D

Flash is a Canon 540EZ at full power handheld

Strobists feel free to add your two cents you would probably know more about making this work than me.

tl;dr MORE POWER ARGH ARGH ARGH ARGH /timallen

5D / 400d / 70-200-4LIS / 50 Mk.I / 28-70
RB67 Pro-S / 50-90-180 Holy Trinity, 120/polaroid back
Graphic View I 4x5 / Schneider 180 / Meyer 135 / Ektar 127

  
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Curtis ­ N
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Apr 03, 2012 20:25 |  #2

Adding more power has diminishing returns. You get one stop every time you double the power. So You'd need eight flash units to get three stops more than one flash. I'm thinking this sort of begs for some serious strobe power - as in monolights w/ battery packs, not hotshoe flash units.

Distance is a huge factor. Cut the distance from light to subject in half, and you gain two stops. If you can get a flash unit on the other side of the gate post, and maybe another near the tracks and just out of the frame to the left, it will help greatly.

As for the lens flare - if you're using a UV filter, get rid of it. Thank me later.

It would be really cool to catch the gate drop via long exposure and the locomotive via flash. But you'll get the headlight trails going back over the locomotive like your second shot. Maybe best to take two shots and merge in post.

It's a cool idea though. Keep us posted, and show us the results!


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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Daship
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Apr 03, 2012 20:30 |  #3

super cool, hope you get it nailed but these are already cool.




  
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Daship
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Apr 03, 2012 20:32 |  #4

velcro some wireless flashes to the gate with some kind of wide modifier, just dont get caught.




  
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j-dogg
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Apr 04, 2012 00:18 as a reply to  @ Daship's post |  #5

trespassing on railroad property and/or tampering with railroad equipment is absolutely out of the question, not happening. Very illegal, it's enough I get the police visiting me every time I do this, I didn't think I had enough facial hair to be a terrorist.

If I could do this all in one shot I would love to, the lower ISO and smaller f-stop the less flare. I may end up having to use a single strobe or something. I already have 7 speedlites, and a subject like this wouldn't need any special functions if I'm using full power.

It would be nothing to clone out the individual flash units if I placed them closer. The first shot I could hide them behind the defect detector (the blocky thing in the foreground)

Track speed is 60mph in this particular location but I know of another spot with a 35mph speed that could freeze the train even better, at the expense of ambient light.

The light trails wouldn't be too bad, I think they would add to the image if I could keep the sensitivity way down.


5D / 400d / 70-200-4LIS / 50 Mk.I / 28-70
RB67 Pro-S / 50-90-180 Holy Trinity, 120/polaroid back
Graphic View I 4x5 / Schneider 180 / Meyer 135 / Ektar 127

  
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drvnbysound
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Apr 04, 2012 08:13 |  #6

j-dogg wrote in post #14206697 (external link)
trespassing on railroad property and/or tampering with railroad equipment is absolutely out of the question, not happening. Very illegal, it's enough I get the police visiting me every time I do this, I didn't think I had enough facial hair to be a terrorist.

If I could do this all in one shot I would love to, the lower ISO and smaller f-stop the less flare. I may end up having to use a single strobe or something. I already have 7 speedlites, and a subject like this wouldn't need any special functions if I'm using full power.

It would be nothing to clone out the individual flash units if I placed them closer. The first shot I could hide them behind the defect detector (the blocky thing in the foreground)

Track speed is 60mph in this particular location but I know of another spot with a 35mph speed that could freeze the train even better, at the expense of ambient light.

The light trails wouldn't be too bad, I think they would add to the image if I could keep the sensitivity way down.

I didn't realize having facial hair was a requirement for a terrorist... not to mention the "COINCIDENCE" that your post count is currently 911 :)

Joking aside, how often do trains pass these locations on a given night? Just trying to figure out how "easy" it would be to merge multiple photos in post if only one train a night passes this area.... and you have to return on repeated nights to get various shots. Since you mention the number of flashes you have, I assume another method could be to setup different strobes at the different locations as you mention and have them setup on various groups, firing only the group you want to fire for particular shots.

If I followed what you are trying to do, and you really want to capture it in a single exposure, would doing some sort of choreographed bulb exposure work? Longer exposure giving you the light trails and train blur you mention, and sometime during the middle of the train passing manually fire your strobes (e.g. hand controlled trigger off-camera, such as hitting the test button)? I don't even know if that would work, but it's what came to mind for me...


I use manual exposure settings on the copy machine
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j-dogg
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Apr 04, 2012 14:00 |  #7

drvnbysound wrote in post #14207713 (external link)
I didn't realize having facial hair was a requirement for a terrorist... not to mention the "COINCIDENCE" that your post count is currently 911 :)

Joking aside, how often do trains pass these locations on a given night? Just trying to figure out how "easy" it would be to merge multiple photos in post if only one train a night passes this area.... and you have to return on repeated nights to get various shots. Since you mention the number of flashes you have, I assume another method could be to setup different strobes at the different locations as you mention and have them setup on various groups, firing only the group you want to fire for particular shots.

If I followed what you are trying to do, and you really want to capture it in a single exposure, would doing some sort of choreographed bulb exposure work? Longer exposure giving you the light trails and train blur you mention, and sometime during the middle of the train passing manually fire your strobes (e.g. hand controlled trigger off-camera, such as hitting the test button)? I don't even know if that would work, but it's what came to mind for me...

There are 4 trains that pass through this area at night within 2 hours, two northbounds followed by two southbounds. The first shot is a NB and NB shots seem to be the ticket for this sort of composition.

That was exactly how I made the first image, one long exposure then as the train approached fire my flash in test. If you look very carefully I'm actually in the shot but walking to induce camera blur and to make myself disappear.


5D / 400d / 70-200-4LIS / 50 Mk.I / 28-70
RB67 Pro-S / 50-90-180 Holy Trinity, 120/polaroid back
Graphic View I 4x5 / Schneider 180 / Meyer 135 / Ektar 127

  
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drvnbysound
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Apr 04, 2012 14:08 |  #8

As I mentioned via PM, this was a very quick merge of 2 of your images. I cloned out some of the red flares in the sky... I think it could benefit from additional PP work, but I just wanted to see if this was along the lines of what you were trying to achieve...

IMAGE: http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/1714/traincomposite.jpg

Note: This edit was larger than the allowable attachment size so I just uploaded it to my Imageshack account.

I use manual exposure settings on the copy machine
..::Gear Listing::.. --==Feedback==--
...A few umbrella brackets I own...

  
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j-dogg
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Apr 04, 2012 14:29 |  #9

drvnbysound wrote in post #14209399 (external link)
As I mentioned via PM, this was a very quick merge of 2 of your images. I cloned out some of the red flares in the sky... I think it could benefit from additional PP work, but I just wanted to see if this was along the lines of what you were trying to achieve...

QUOTED IMAGE

Note: This edit was larger than the allowable attachment size so I just uploaded it to my Imageshack account.

thats pretty much it, minus the flare, which I have calculated to be the angle of the camera itself, so I will be changing that slightly soon.


5D / 400d / 70-200-4LIS / 50 Mk.I / 28-70
RB67 Pro-S / 50-90-180 Holy Trinity, 120/polaroid back
Graphic View I 4x5 / Schneider 180 / Meyer 135 / Ektar 127

  
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SMP_Homer
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Apr 04, 2012 14:33 |  #10

flare could be from any filters as well


EOS R6’ / 1D X / 1D IV (and the wife has a T4i)
Sig35A, Sig50A, Sig85A, Sig14-24A, Sig24-105A, Sig70-200S, Sig150-600C
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drvnbysound
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Apr 04, 2012 14:48 |  #11

j-dogg wrote in post #14209511 (external link)
thats pretty much it, minus the flare, which I have calculated to be the angle of the camera itself, so I will be changing that slightly soon.

The merging and masking literally took less than a minute in Photoshop. Not saying they are the best steps, but this is what I did:

I opened the photo with the train in it, then the photo of the lights. I moved the latter photo over to the first file, essentially putting it on it's own layer on top of the first photo. I used the magic wand selection tool (with a tolerance of 80), clicked somewhere in the black area, to select the underexposed sky, then ALT+clicked on the 'Add Vector Mask' icon at the bottom of the layers panel; this masked away the darkness and allowed only the lights to be shown. Then I changed the blend mode to screen, and adjusted the opacity to around 85% (so that the lights had roughly the same intensity). This gave the majority of what is shown above.

After that, I found the brighter red spots in the sky distracting, so I used the clone stamp tool to remove them; I also began to clone away some of the base of the telephone pole, since it looked [to me] like it was growing out of the center of the train.


I use manual exposure settings on the copy machine
..::Gear Listing::.. --==Feedback==--
...A few umbrella brackets I own...

  
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j-dogg
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Apr 04, 2012 15:18 as a reply to  @ drvnbysound's post |  #12

All filters were removed, I never shoot trains with filters, even in the day.


5D / 400d / 70-200-4LIS / 50 Mk.I / 28-70
RB67 Pro-S / 50-90-180 Holy Trinity, 120/polaroid back
Graphic View I 4x5 / Schneider 180 / Meyer 135 / Ektar 127

  
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Curtis ­ N
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Apr 04, 2012 17:14 |  #13

What lens were you using? Maybe I'm nuts but the flare seems bad for a pro-quality lens without filters.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
Chicago area POTN events (external link)
Flash Photography 101 | The EOS Flash Bible  (external link)| Techniques for Better On-Camera Flash (external link) | How to Use Flash Outdoors| Excel-based DOF Calculator (external link)

  
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j-dogg
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Apr 04, 2012 19:25 as a reply to  @ Curtis N's post |  #14

24-105/4L


5D / 400d / 70-200-4LIS / 50 Mk.I / 28-70
RB67 Pro-S / 50-90-180 Holy Trinity, 120/polaroid back
Graphic View I 4x5 / Schneider 180 / Meyer 135 / Ektar 127

  
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SMP_Homer
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Apr 05, 2012 08:19 |  #15

also if you can - get those remote flashes higher off the ground - no need to light up the ground to light up the train!


EOS R6’ / 1D X / 1D IV (and the wife has a T4i)
Sig35A, Sig50A, Sig85A, Sig14-24A, Sig24-105A, Sig70-200S, Sig150-600C
100-400L, 100L, 100/2, 300 2.8L, 1.4x II / 2x II
600EX-II X3, 430EX-III X3

  
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More speedlites = more power?
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