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Thread started 03 Apr 2012 (Tuesday) 20:16
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More Lax (I used your advice!)

 
LaxMom
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Apr 03, 2012 20:16 |  #1

Well, my son had another Lax game last night. I was shooting as the sun went down, so for awhile the lighting was perfect! I shot in TV mode, 1/450. (Canon Rebel XSi, 70-200 zoom lens) ISO varied, as it got darker. I just kept bumping it up as I needed. I feel like they could be a little more clear or sharp. But, I feel they're better than what I did last time. Any advice on making them more in focus?? I use a monopod.........but, maybe I'm just not timing it right?? It aways looks focused when I snap the pic, but they move so fast, it's hard to tell sometimes. I tried to make sure the red dot was on the player's face when I snapped...........

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Canon Rebel XSi, Canon 70-200 lens
“ I always thought good photos were like good jokes. If you have to explain it, it just isn’t that good." – Anonymous

  
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ajaffe
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Apr 03, 2012 23:11 |  #2

Why tv mode? Shutter priority is generally only good if you are panning. For stuff like this you typically want to be in Manual or Av, with the widest aperture you can get to help destroy backgrounds.

Are you shooting in servo?

These all look soft to me.


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rick_reno
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Apr 04, 2012 00:40 |  #3

they look a little OOF, good capture of the action




  
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watt100
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Apr 04, 2012 05:04 |  #4

LaxMom wrote in post #14205525 (external link)
Well, my son had another Lax game last night. I was shooting as the sun went down, so for awhile the lighting was perfect! I shot in TV mode, 1/450. (Canon Rebel XSi, 70-200 zoom lens) ISO varied, as it got darker. I just kept bumping it up as I needed. I feel like they could be a little more clear or sharp. But, I feel they're better than what I did last time. Any advice on making them more in focus?? I use a monopod.........but, maybe I'm just not timing it right?? It aways looks focused when I snap the pic, but they move so fast, it's hard to tell sometimes. I tried to make sure the red dot was on the player's face when I snapped...........


it's not so much about "timing" as getting high shutter speeds to freeze the action - at least 1/800 or greater
next time - increase the shutter speed !




  
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LaxMom
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Apr 04, 2012 06:35 |  #5

ajaffe wrote in post #14206426 (external link)
Why tv mode? Shutter priority is generally only good if you are panning. For stuff like this you typically want to be in Manual or Av, with the widest aperture you can get to help destroy backgrounds.

Are you shooting in servo?

These all look soft to me.

I shot in TV mode because Watt suggested it to me in my other post. People told me not to shoot in manual. But now in this post, people are telling me to shoot in manual. This is so confusing!!! LOL


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“ I always thought good photos were like good jokes. If you have to explain it, it just isn’t that good." – Anonymous

  
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watt100
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Apr 04, 2012 07:05 |  #6

LaxMom wrote in post #14207446 (external link)
I shot in TV mode because Watt suggested it to me in my other post. People told me not to shoot in manual. But now in this post, people are telling me to shoot in manual. This is so confusing!!! LOL

I suggested shooting in Tv mode with a high shutter speed to see the difference a faster shutter speed makes then using Av mode and adjusting the ISO until you get a higher shutter speed - shooting sports at f2.8 with an XSi can be tricky for a beginner.
The point is, you're not getting sharp results because you are using too low shutter speeds.




  
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sfinkernagel
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Apr 04, 2012 07:46 |  #7

Everyone has a different style, although it seems that most will use AV with a wide aperture (Low f-stop) and adjust the iso as needed to keep shutter speeds high. There are plenty of people who will also tell you that "you can freeze action at insert incredibly slow shutter speed here, but I have found that 1/500 is a minimum, and if there is enough light, I would prefer something faster- 1/1000 works great.

Manual, AV, TV, "action mode"..... The important thing is that you get to the settings you want, not how you get there. Keep experimenting, and find your style.

For me- in this circumstance, I would have used AV. A setting sun means changing light, and I would rather have the camera making that adjustment than me. Your first shot is in mostly shade, your second in full sun. As the sun sets, things get darker. Changing manual exposure in that circumstance is possible, but excessive in my mind. If the sun set all the way and the lights come on, now you would have more predictable lights and I would switch to M. Had it been earlier, and the light on the field was consistent, M would be a good choice there also.

Don't get frustrated- there is lots to learn! Once you have the camera set up to your liking, you will want to be concerned about focus points, modes, and white balance. There is always something that can get better!




  
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LaxMom
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Apr 04, 2012 08:54 |  #8

watt100 wrote in post #14207512 (external link)
I suggested shooting in Tv mode with a high shutter speed to see the difference a faster shutter speed makes then using Av mode and adjusting the ISO until you get a higher shutter speed - shooting sports at f2.8 with an XSi can be tricky for a beginner.
The point is, you're not getting sharp results because you are using too low shutter speeds.

Ok, thanks. So, what do you think the best shutter speed is?? Or, do I just play around, and find what works? ;)


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“ I always thought good photos were like good jokes. If you have to explain it, it just isn’t that good." – Anonymous

  
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Noitca
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Apr 04, 2012 08:55 |  #9

I had similar issues with some/alot of my pictures being "soft"... exactly the same that you were coming up with. A suggestion I read on this forum was to use "AI Servo".. which I wasn't, I was using "one shot" focus. I noticed a big difference in my shots by making that change.

I also used to shoot Tv and let the camera decide the aperature and iso settings. Lately I have been shooting Av with the aperature set as low as it can go, then manually select the iso setting. When taking pictures keep an eye on the shutter speed the camera is selecting. (another tip I learned here).. again, noticed a big difference in the pictures I was getting. Basically, for as smart as the cameras can be, I don't like letting it decide too many things on it's own.

In terms of the shutter speeds... what I have found.
1/320: lots of motion blur. hands/arms/feet/"stick​s"/balls ect. will more than likely be blurred (not oof, blurred)
1/500: rough minimum to "stop motion"... will/can still get blurring of "sticks", balls moving quickly, hands.
1/800: generally will stop most stuff, balls and the ends of "sticks" being swung will/can still blur.
1/1250+: should stop pretty much everything. At these speeds I can see the stiches of a baseball after it's been hit (by a 5-6 year old, keep in mind).

On the iso stuff... one step up in iso is a "stop" in light for the camera... so if you are iso 200, 1/500, f/4.... then you bump the iso to 400... you will get the same exposure with the 1/1000, f/4 settings. Granted, the picture would have more noise due to the increased sensitivity of the sensor.


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LaxMom
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Apr 04, 2012 08:58 |  #10

Noitca wrote in post #14207888 (external link)
I had similar issues with some/alot of my pictures being "soft"... exactly the same that you were coming up with. A suggestion I read on this forum was to use "AI Servo".. which I wasn't, I was using "one shot" focus. I noticed a big difference in my shots by making that change.

I also used to shoot Tv and let the camera decide the aperature and iso settings. Lately I have been shooting Av with the aperature set as low as it can go, then manually select the iso setting. When taking pictures keep an eye on the shutter speed the camera is selecting. (another tip I learned here).. again, noticed a big difference in the pictures I was getting. Basically, for as smart as the cameras can be, I don't like letting it decide too many things on it's own.

In terms of the shutter speeds... what I have found.
1/320: lots of motion blur. hands/arms/feet/"stick​s"/balls ect. will more than likely be blurred (not oof, blurred)
1/500: rough minimum to "stop motion"... will/can still get blurring of "sticks", balls moving quickly, hands.
1/800: generally will stop most stuff, balls and the ends of "sticks" being swung will/can still blur.
1/1250+: should stop pretty much everything. At these speeds I can see the stiches of a baseball after it's been hit (by a 5-6 year old, keep in mind).

On the iso stuff... one step up in iso is a "stop" in light for the camera... so if you are iso 200, 1/500, f/4.... then you bump the iso to 400... you will get the same exposure with the 1/1000, f/4 settings. Granted, the picture would have more noise due to the increased sensitivity of the sensor.

Thank you so much!!! That helps a lot.


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“ I always thought good photos were like good jokes. If you have to explain it, it just isn’t that good." – Anonymous

  
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Noitca
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Apr 04, 2012 09:08 |  #11

Hope it's useful.

Also hope that I am not off my rocker. :)

I am still learning the ins/outs of all of this.


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LaxMom
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Apr 04, 2012 09:46 |  #12

Noitca wrote in post #14207940 (external link)
Hope it's useful.

Also hope that I am not off my rocker. :)

I am still learning the ins/outs of all of this.

Yep, so am I! I'm not a professional by any means, but I do my Son's team photography. I have had lots of my pics in the paper, and I also sell shots and team photos to parents. I have had nothing but good feedback, but I still want to better myself. Parents are just happy to get shots they can't get with a point and shoot, and I don't charge much. So, they're happy. ;)


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“ I always thought good photos were like good jokes. If you have to explain it, it just isn’t that good." – Anonymous

  
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